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wiring 4 subs


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speedlance 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: August 12, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: August 12, 2003 at 4:00 PM / IP Logged  

First of all, thanks for all of the great info on this website,

I wanted to make sure that I digested the information on this site properly -

I bought a pyramid 1600 watt amplifier, 4 12" subs (2 700w max and 2 600w max), a 2 farad cap, and a set of tweeters! I know not the best quality stuff, but it is just for a saturn.

I plan on doing the following - taking power from the battery running it to my trunk on the passanger side, run it to the capacitor and then into my amplifier.  Take the sub out on my sony xplode and run it on the drivers side to the amp.  The boxed I made are 16" across by 15" tall by 18" deep.  I have two boxes made - one sub is mounted in the front and the other sub is mounted in the back of the box (not facing each other - in a series- same exact speakers per box) - there is one 2" hole in the side leading to a chamber that leads to the front of the box.  (so I can mess with the port)  (the box is made out of 3/4" particle board (yeah it is not mdf, but it is already made)) --

For the tweeters, I was going to try installing them off of my back speakers - is this a good idea, or would they take too much power off of my rear speakers?

Should I fuse the power wire going to the amp? If so, how can I determine the size of the fuse (probably no easy answer)  --  Also any suggestions/tips or anything wrong with my plan?

Thanks all!

;)
Lebult 
Copper - Posts: 66
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 13, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: August 12, 2003 at 4:16 PM / IP Logged  

1. Did you get JUST tweeters, or a component set?

As long as you have some crossovers for your tweeters, you can wire them to your back speakres without a problem. Without crossoveres, you're gonna get quite a bit of distortion when your Tweets try to play what they're not supposed to. I'm assuming they're 2 or 3 way speakers, so I dont know how good it would sound. If its just a 1 way then you'll be fine.

2. From my experience, ALWAYS fuse the Power Wire. Put the fuse as close to the battery as you can (no more than 6" away) Your AMP maker should tell you ontheir site, or on the spec sheet that came with the amp, what kind of fuse to use, but for a 1600watt amp, 80AMP AGU Fuse should do it.

I recommend running the power wire through the Driver's Side and the RCAs from the HU to the AMP, by the Passenger's Side. Theres a lot of stuff on the driver's side that cause create background noise through the cables (like your brake master cylinder, power steering, etc).

I'm not sure what model amp you have, so I cant really give you any help wiring it without knowing what its pushing out.

Let me know how it sounds when ur finished, cause I've been looking at some cheaper amp, and I'm not how they'll perform.

speedlance 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: August 12, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: August 13, 2003 at 6:38 AM / IP Logged  

Here is a quick list of what I have gotten already in hand and the information so you don't have to search for it:

pyramid 1475 - 1600 Watt amplifier

4 x 400 Watts Total Output
Dual Variable Bass Boost
Dual Fully Adjustable High Low Electronic Crossover Networks
Dual Variable Gain Controls
MOSFET PWN Power Supply
Soft Turn-On Circuit
High And Low Level Inputs
High Level Molex Inputs
2 Ohm Stereo Stable/Bridgeable into 4 Ohms
Remote Turn On/Off
Electronic Crossover Network

2 Pyramid pyrpw1277 subs

Diameter: 12"
Impedance: 4 ohms
2" Kapton Voice Coil
SPL @ 1W/1M: 86 DB
Frequency Response: 36Hz
80 Oz. Magnet
350 RMS Power/ 700 Watt Peak Power

2 other 12" subs - I bought these at best buy about a year ago but I cant remember the manufacturer - (I think it is

lightning audio) - the ones with the radioactive symbol on the speakers... they are 350 or 375 watts max - I cant

remember offhand.

And the stuff I just got that I am waiting for--

pyramid DCAP200P (purple) 2 Farad Digital Power Capacitor-

Capacitance +/- 5%, 20-24 Volt Surge, 105°C
Digital Voltmeter At Lighting To Monitor From Top Side
Red Status LED
Dia. 3.54” x H 9.65”
Lowest E.S.R. (<0.0016 Ohm)
1 Pair O

Pioneer TS-A1680R 2-Way Full Range Speakers-

220 Watts Max. Power
Aramid Fiber IMPP Cone Woofer with Ferrite Magnet
1-5/8" Balanced Dome Midrange with Strontium Magnet and Magnetic Fluid
5/8" Dome Tweeter
3/8" Dome Supertweeters
Redesigned Basket for Improved Fit on GM Oversized 6-1/2 Applications
Sensitivity (Efficiency): 91dB (1W/1m)
Frequency Response: 30 - 30,000 Hz
Impedance: 4 ohms

Legacy model LT22 .5" Three-Way Mounting Neodymium Tweeters-

.5” Mylar Dome
High Density Neodymium Magnet
Tri-Way Mounting System: Flush, Surface or Swivel
Ferro Fluid Cooling
18dB Crossover Network
Frequency Response: 1.3 - 22kHz
SPL: 92dB @ 1W/1M
Power Handling: 50 Watts

The head unit I have is the older style sony xplode (7000 something model) 45 Watts RMS outx2

For now the front factory speakers are being left in... 

I will run the cables as you suggested - it makes sense to do so!

yes, I will let you all know how it sounds - at this point I am not sure, but I hope it is good.

;)

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