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94 chevy silverado speakers


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dna9656 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: June 12, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: June 13, 2004 at 3:14 PM / IP Logged  

I need to know HOW to remove the panels inside my 94 Chevy ext. cab to install speakers in the stock locations on each side of the window. I'm sure the seat belt anchors 9top and bottom) have to be removed; anything thing else?

dna9656
dfiddy 
Copper - Posts: 162
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 17, 2002
Location: Canada
Posted: June 13, 2004 at 3:24 PM / IP Logged  
I hate doing rear speakers in these trucks...I break those clips on the panel in the headliner all the time, no matter how hard I try not to. Would anyone have any tips they would like to share on how to take these panels off without breaking anything? dna9656 Are your speakers up high or down low. I can't remember which years switch over to the lower location. the ones that are lower are much easier than the ones that are higher. The panel under the rear window has to come out. That one has really stubborn clips that pull straight off. Yes the seatbelts have to come off. The armrests too I believe (phillips screws). Hope that helps.
sparkie 
Platinum - Posts: 2,061
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Joined: November 06, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: June 14, 2004 at 3:08 PM / IP Logged  
Those speakers are a real pain to replace. Start by taking the lower sill panels off and the rear seat belt tensioners. Remove the back seat (two bolts at the hinges). Remove the panel under the back window by pulling the bottom of it towards the dash to disengage the clips and then push upwards to release the upper clips. Remove all the visible screws from each side panel and the hidden ones under the rear seat armrests. Remove the side panels by pulling the bottom edge towards the opposite side of the truck. The top edge must curl out of the top panel on the roof. DON'T try to remove the top trim panel running across the roof. The panel is held in by screws and clips. It can't be removed until the side panels are removed. The process is tricky and must be done in the correct sequence or panels will break. The side panels also have clips holding in conjunction with the screws. All that to replace 4x6" speakers.
sparky
dna9656 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: June 12, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: June 14, 2004 at 4:07 PM / IP Logged  

dfiddy and Sparky;

                              Thanks you're both right; oh SO right! What was GM thinking when they designed this system? I think parts sales people were in on the design process so they could sell more parts.

                              After I started I found that the top panel above the rear glass does not have to be removed; however getting the upper side panels back in place is a toughie, the clips next to the back glass edge are very hard to get in the slots in the body, then you have to mess with the upper center panel while getting the outer panels in place. I have the driver's side rear panel in place and am wrestling with the passenger side.

                             I found that "DEVCON" Epoxy for plastic works VERY well holding the broken plastic where the clips are installed; I also applied hot glue applied with a glue gun over the epoxy; man it holds! I had to remove a panel to restart the installation and the glued repair held!

                            So thanks for the help; oh yeah I added a pair of jumper wires to each of the rear speakers so adding the 6.5 round ones later won't be a pain!

                           One last question: On pioneer speakers there is a small and large terminal on them; whitch one is positive? I know it really doesn't matter so long as all the speakers are wired the same but it would be nice to know for sure!

dna9656
Ravendarat 
Platinum - Posts: 2,806
Platinum spacespace
Joined: February 23, 2004
Location: Canada
Posted: June 14, 2004 at 4:10 PM / IP Logged  
large terminal is positve.
double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer
dna9656 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: June 12, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: June 14, 2004 at 4:22 PM / IP Logged  

Ravendarat;

                   Thanks! I thought so! Now if we can only get Pioneer at admit their little mounting ring is worthless and make a good one or....

You shouldn't need an adapter to mount speakers "MADE" to fit GM (or another brand) much less have to screw (sorry no pun intended) around by  filing off the bosses around the screw holes  so the screw would have enough effective length to do the job; the screw heads will hold the speaker in place you won't need and can't use the washers cause the screws are too short. 

dna9656
sparkie 
Platinum - Posts: 2,061
Platinum spacespace
Joined: November 06, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: June 14, 2004 at 6:48 PM / IP Logged  
Patience is a virtue and a required trait when working on these trucks. You know the engineers that designed those panels knew it would break. Thats why they give alternate clip mounts on some panels. Take your time and everything will fit right and hopefully won't rattle. You can also acces the rear speaker wires in a plug in the drivers kick panel area. It's usually near the carpet edge at the firewall on the driver's side. Good luck.
sparky

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