Infiniti I30 bose nightmare!

Let me first apologize for this post turning into a short story, but I've tried everything but throwing this car away and the story helps to diagnose and understand my problem. Thanks in advance to anyone taking the time to read this and has any suggestions! I have a strange problem with an install I'm doing on my friends 2000 Infiniti I30 with the Bose system. I've done installs on Bose before and warned him about every option there was and advised him to tear it out cause you never know what's in store messing with Bose. I originally hooked up a sub amp to 2 Kicker Comp VR's (4ohm dvc) with a line out converter tapped into the 8" woofer in the rear deck. Everything worked fine except for the cheap amp getting hot. A few days later, he came over with a Clarion DPX 1000.2 he bought from someone and witnessed working in their car. So I wired up the clarion and after finding out it only supports 2ohm mono and 1ohm stereo I left the subs each wired in parallel for a 2ohm stereo load - same as before. Well the amp comes on and has this 1ohm light that flashes for a while and the both lights are steady on for a few seconds. The subs sound as if they are getting really strange feedback even without the rca's plugged in! They kind of sound like ummm...static with a pulse - it's very faint until you put the rca's back in and then it just gets louder but it's not even to the music. Nothing changed but the amp. So 2 possibilities I say to myself - fried amp or Bose system interference right? I left the amp out cause he had to run, and tried putting in a power acoustic amp a few days later cause he said the first amp had been clipping or going in protection - same result, same weird ass noise from the subs but no bass. We didn't get a head unit at first because I researched his car and nobody makes a dash kit for 2000 and up. The tech guys over at Metra say they don't plan on making one. I also searched everywhere (here, maxima.org, carstereohelp.com, sounddomain.com, etc) about the options we had with the Bose system and pretty much had to base it off what I found for the 2000 Maxima. I decided to get the new head unit to avoid using any signal from the Bose wires. I got him a Sony CDX-F5705X and used a 2000 Maxima dash kit from Metra cause it looked like it would fit. He already had the scosche wire harness (FAINN03 I think) for Nissan 94+ vehicles with Bose and. I hooked up the HU and ran the rca's for the sub amp and the rest for a future EQ in the console and a 4ch amp for mids/highs while I had the car taken apart. The dash kit fit in but was an inch too short on the left side - Oh well for now because the radio sounded incredible with integrated with the Bose system! I think the speakers are getting output from the HU and Bose amp which can't be good for too long but it sounds good. But I'll be damned - the Clarion 1000.2 is back in and getting a signal straight from the RCA sub out on the HU and the subs still sound like in the movie "Signs" when that baby monitor is picking up Alien signals. I knew the Bose speakers were 1 or 2ohm but the radio seemed to work with the scosche Bose adapter without the FAI-3 piece. So I spend many hours searching for answers on the internet, but of course maxima.org - where I found the most related info - was upgrading their servers then and wasn't available. I was going to hook up the scosche FAI-3 he bought but I decided on telling him we need to go ahead a replace the door speakers and run all new wires to make sure we aren't going to worry about a) the Bose amp voltages, b) the eq, c) the signal processor, or d) the ohm load going to the HU causing this problem. So we replaced them with some Sony 6.5's (if your wondering why Sony? - I buy from an electronics distributor I used to work at and they carry mostly Audiobahn and Sony) and ran all new speaker wire from the HU to each door. I was 90% positive this would solve our dilemma. Bypass all Bose, disconnect sub and sub amp, change door speakers and disconnect tweeters right? Wrong! WTF? The amp light on this Clarion comes on and some reason the 1ohm light blinks for 5-10 secs and then both stay on - then it does it 1 or 2 more times until it stays on for good. My multimeter definitely says its 2 ohms. I've re-grounded, re-wired, re-placed, re-turned, re-installed, re-checked, re-everything! I haven't gotten to check the amp in another setup, but the power acoustic did the same thing so it's not the Clarion amp that’s the problem. He sold the first amp so I can't check that. Only thing I got left to try is maybe a new battery, a new alternator, ground, ground, ground under the hood...the cap shows a steady 13.8v or so but it could be bad, or the car is evil and Bose has a conspiracy to take over the world. It comes down to this - What could have happened while simply changing amps when the system was working just fine with only an RCA converter and the factory Bose? Why after replacing all components and bypassing Bose completely would this still happen? Maybe the Bose system never was causing a problem? I used to be an alarm/stereo installer for about 6 years and I haven't come across this before. Its stuff like this reminds me why I quit in the first place. Anyone help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I just thought about that cap possibly being no good and that’s what I'm leaning towards now. I don’t want to start buying unnecessary parts but the Bose needed to get ripped out anyway! If it were me I'd sell that damn devil car right now! Tidbits- Sony CDX-F5705X Clarion DPX 1000.2 - 4 Sony 6.5's (I forget the model) 2 Kicker Comp Vr's (each 4ohm dvc wired separately in parallel = (2) 2ohm stereo loads) 1 P.O.S. generic box 1 farad cap w/digital display 4 gauge power and ground to 1 farad cap Ground is less than 12" 4 gauge to distribution blocks from cap 8 gauge from blocks to amp New RCA's down passenger side Power wire on driver side Haven’t bothered hooking up Kenwood 4ch or EQ and crossover until I get this working! DIE BOSE DIE!

your missing some thing somewhere, i just dont understand, id have to work in it first hand

Ok I tried bypassing the cap so that's not it. I'm gonna go to town on it with my multimeter now - nobody can think of anything I can try?

Nobody can think of something I could be overlooking? I just went and wired the kicker comp vr subs (4ohm dvc) each in series and then in parallel to give the amp a 4 ohm bridged load after finding a recommended wiring diagram created 6/29/04 on the clarion website. The amp had an extra led next to the power led for 1 ohm mode operation. When I turn the car on, this light blinks for a few secs and then stays on. This was the same when the speakers were at 2ohm stereo, and now 4 ohm mono. I switched the amp mode accordingly. The clarion manual only states "Note: Activation of the 1 ohm mode will occur when the output load is 1 ohm. The amplifier will shut down for 15 seconds and then turn back on in the 1 ohm mode. To reset this feature, the power connections must be disconnected for 30 seconds and then reconnected." Does anyone have a Clarion DPX-1000.2 that could tell me what theirs does? I'm assuming that light isn't supposed to be on unless there is a 1 ohm stereo load. Help someone pleeeeeez! Here is the manual. The hyperlink doesn't format this link correctly so here- http://www.teamclarion.com/sharedwebdbs/clarionsupport.nsf/0/4561ed0ef8e2dd4688256a64006efb60/$FILE/DPX10002_V1%20(OWNERS%20AND%20INSTALL).pdf      

Could the Comp vr's be DVC 2 ohm instead of 4?Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

Yeah the bose HU, speakers, amps, and anything else I could find that even ryhmed with bose got either taken out or unplugged. The actual amp in the trunk is still screwed in, but not connected. I'll rip that one out, and plug a small 200w old school punch amp up and see if that has the same result. I Took the HU out and double checked ground, rca's, etc and made sure the wire harness wasn't still connecting to factory bose wires. I originally got the Comp vr's out of my girlfriends car and I had them hooked up to a p.o.s. boss amp rated 600W rms (probably 100w lol) that I found laying around because she didn't want all that bass anymore. they were working just fine @ 2 ohm stereo in her car - besides I did break out the digital MM and made sure that they were wired @ 2 ohms, but have since rewired them to voice coils in series/woofers in parallel 4 ohm load as clarion suggests for this amp To eliminate another possibility I'm gonna hook the clarion amp up in my girlfriends car where I know the wiring is fine. Then I'll know 100% what my problem is if it works or if not I can rule that out. I'm really hoping something in the bose setup is still interfering. I do need to check the resistance on the ground since I bypassed the bose, the only problem is I have to work on his car in small intervals whenever we can, so after adding or changing something he has to leave and I never get to diagnose more than 1 option. Then he goes and people start filling his head up with sh*t. Someone actually told him yesterday that those speakers wont work with that amp because they are 4 ohms! Ha! He doesn't quite comprehend why the bose system could still be causing a problem (I can't either but anything is possible) and he can't see why 1 amp would have problems if it required different voltage and pulled more current thru the remote lead, etc, etc - because he thinks of them all as "12 volt" amps.    I just can't see what happened after simply switching sub anps when it was working with a l.o.c. and factory bose setup. It had to be something related to the clarion amp and the bose amp The strange part is still the fact that the rca's don't have to be plugged in to make the noise through the subs.. It's not engine noise but more of a bad signal/source feed - or like Chad7n7 said about the ground resistance problem...or a ground loop caused by bose wiring throughout the car.