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Amp High Level Input


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meh66 
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Posted: October 27, 2004 at 12:24 PM / IP Logged  

I recently istalled two Visonik amps(four channel and one channel) and to be able to have balance and fade control, I ran two wires per speaker to the factory head unit speaker wires. I thought the installation was good as I insured all my connection was clean and tight. However, I am getting a whine in all four speakers. I do not believe it is alternator whine because when I remove the high level input plug the noise goes away. The amps are still powered on when I do that. What guage wire should I use when I run it to each old speaker output and should I keep this wire from power wire since they are control wires at this point. Are there any kind of filters I can put on it?

MEH66
"Car Performance and Mobile Electronic Enthusiats"
stevdart 
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Posted: October 27, 2004 at 2:22 PM / IP Logged  

Don't run extra speaker wires to the head unit.  You are putting a load on the deck internal amp and sending signal to the speakers from both the deck and the amp.  Instead of using the high level input on the amp, use a 4 channel line output converter.  Connect it to all four OEM speaker wire positives and negatives and then connect it with RCAs to the 4 channel amp.  The rear RCAs will go directly to the amplifier rear inputs, but use Y-splitters for the fronts and run them to the sub amp, too.

If you connect the LOC behind the deck, run high quality RCA cables to the amp.  If you want to position the LOC close to the amps (my preferred way), use twisted wire pairs from the OEM speaker wires back to the LOC, then RCAs to the amp.  You'll retain fade control (and of course balance), and the sub will fade stronger with the fronts.  The rears will fade away without taking the sub with them.

Twisted wire pairs can be any wire 20 gauge or better, with the positive and negative wires twisted around each other at the rate of 1 to 2 twists per inch.  You can do a search as well for pre-made twisted speaker wire, but I have made mine out of standard 20 gauge Bell wire, twisted with the help of a drill.

You can find high quality line output converters here.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
meh66 
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Posted: October 28, 2004 at 12:14 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks.....I did not run extra speaker wire to the head unit, I ran it to the original wires that was connected to the factory speaker. I had PAC two channel LOC, but I got very low output. I will definetly try the twisted pair.
MEH66
"Car Performance and Mobile Electronic Enthusiats"
stevdart 
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Posted: October 28, 2004 at 12:31 AM / IP Logged  

Whether they were run to the head or to the speaker wires connected to the head, it's the same thing.  Isn't it?  So your new speakers have wires to the amplifier, and another set of wires connected with the head unit.  I'm saying that you must only have wires from the speaker to the amp.  The original factory wiring cannot be connected to the speakers.  The twisted wire connects to the original factory wiring and connects to an adjustable LOC.  You will find that a good LOC will make you realize what crap an amp's LOC is.

In your original post, you said you used the amp high level input, but now you say you used a Pac LOC.  So, which was it?

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
meh66 
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Posted: October 28, 2004 at 12:41 AM / IP Logged  

Stevdart,

Thanks again....I hope I can type this a little clearer. I did use the high level inputs, but before I used the high level inputs I tried the PAC LOC and the output was extremely low even after I adjusted it. My new speakers only have wires to the amp. The high level input wires are connected to the the speaker wires that is connected to the factory head unit. Let me know if I am doing it wrong.

MEH66
"Car Performance and Mobile Electronic Enthusiats"
stevdart 
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Posted: October 28, 2004 at 12:57 AM / IP Logged  
OK, sorry, I gotcha now.  The twisted wires carrying the signal to the LOC should do away with the whine.  You must have the line out of the 4 channel going to the sub amp, then.  That will work.  If you find that the sound quality suffers, try the Navone or Peripheral 4 channel LOC and wire as I described above for better frequency response than the built-in LOC will provide.  The Peripheral P554A would do a good job.
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
forbidden 
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Joined: November 01, 2003
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: October 28, 2004 at 12:26 PM / IP Logged  
Audio Control LC6 is what you need my friend...... www.audiocontrol.com
Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
meh66 
Copper - Posts: 266
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Posted: October 28, 2004 at 12:32 PM / IP Logged  
Forbidden...thanks for the info again, but I can not convince this guy(cheap) he needs a xover.
MEH66
"Car Performance and Mobile Electronic Enthusiats"
forbidden 
Platinum - Posts: 5,352
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Joined: November 01, 2003
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: October 28, 2004 at 12:46 PM / IP Logged  

Introducing the AudioControl LC6

Six Channel Line Output Converter

Amp High Level Input -- posted image.The new LC6 is a high performance line output converter that accepts speaker level input from factory installed source units or amplifiers (up to six channels) and converts them to a high quality pre-amp signal. This pre-amp signal can then drive an after-market amplifier and speaker system.

Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
meh66 
Copper - Posts: 266
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: October 26, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: October 28, 2004 at 2:57 PM / IP Logged  

Rob,

I am hooked on the Audio Control just by what they said in their write up.

MEH66
"Car Performance and Mobile Electronic Enthusiats"

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