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Confused about battery options


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bigwise1 
Member - Posts: 39
Member spacespace
Joined: December 28, 2004
Posted: January 25, 2005 at 9:44 AM / IP Logged  
I'm new to this and I've searched and there are so many opinions it's confusing me. First off I'm running 2 Zapco 500/1 @ 2 0hms and a Zapco 1000/4 @ 4 Ohms for a total of 1600W. I don't want anymore weight with additional large batteries and I don't listen to the stereo with car off. The battery's stock placement is in the trunk on a Chrysler 300c. I'm thinking about a d31 yellow top for starting and audio, a h.o. alternator (stinger or ohio gen), and a 5 farad alumapro c.a.p. Can the yellow top be used for both starting and audio? Also, would I get better performance off of 2 smaller stinger batteries wired in parallel? The weight of the 2 smaller stinger batteries would only be slightly more than the optima. Thanks
sinistar 
Copper - Posts: 85
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 16, 2004
Posted: January 25, 2005 at 9:51 AM / IP Logged  
I don't know about the stingers wired in parallel if it'll be better, but I know the Yellow Top is a starter/deep cycle battery. The red top is strictly a starter battery but with the yellow you get the deep cycle which allows you to let it drain and recharge over and over. I'm not sold on the capacitors yet. They have the new ones where its like 200 farads or something in a small box which I heard is the way to go for the price. I'd be curious if you did the parallel of 2 Stingers if it worked any better than a single Yellow Top Optiima.
Master Asylum 
Silver - Posts: 400
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Joined: November 05, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 25, 2005 at 1:16 PM / IP Logged  

CAP=last if for some reason needed. Get a good H.O alt and you're set.

(I was looking at like 200 or so for an undersized 1.5 FARAD cap for my system and I have found a 180amp alt for $180 bucks that will run the system well enough when I toss in the trunk battery) Trying those 2 first is a good idea, if you still freakishly find drawing problems, then get the cap. I'm running something like 1300wRMS (I'm assuming the 1500w is in RMS up there with the product line and the pricing, otherwise they better be some killer equip) and I'm not expecting any deficiency. But that's me. (remember, you will most likely not run this at 100% for long stints of time, the alternator should handle it fine.)

1998 Monte Carlo w/
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bigwise1 
Member - Posts: 39
Member spacespace
Joined: December 28, 2004
Posted: January 25, 2005 at 6:51 PM / IP Logged  

If a battery is wired in parallel, will the CCA increase and internal resistance decrease?

pimpincavy 
Silver - Posts: 880
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Joined: May 20, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 25, 2005 at 8:43 PM / IP Logged  
Get a 200amp alt. and you should be a-ok.
audeogod 
Copper - Posts: 73
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 18, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 26, 2005 at 12:09 AM / IP Logged  

Bear with me cause it's been two years since I had this in school.  Any mistakes I make NEED to be corrected by someone who knows for sure(and after this post, I'm gonna get the book out on this again to check up).

Batteries wired parallel give you an increased current capacity but voltage remains the same(if both are same voltage).  Batteries wired in series increase voltage but I believe current capacity will remain the same.  So based on that, then I think CCA or Cold Cranking Amps should increase with a parallel comination.

As for internal resistance it's been awhile since school on all this, but ideally, I think a battery's internal resistance is supposed to be zero.  Real world application there will be some resistance, but it should be practically non-existant and I think paralleling them would even bring that down.  Not sure though.  But whatever you're doing with them, internal resistance shouldn't be a problem. 

audeogod
92 Chevrolet Cheyenne 1/2 ton truck
Pioneer DEH-41
Eclipse 2-way coaxial 4x6's in dash
Eclipse 3-way coaxial 6 1/2's in doors(cut to fit)
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