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Proper Wiring


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Walkercustoms 
Copper - Posts: 219
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Posted: February 16, 2005 at 7:44 AM / IP Logged  

I just have a question I have an amp that is 1500watts rms and has 4 40amp fuses.  I would like to know how do you determin the draw on the system in the car and if a gel battery and 5Fard cap will be ok.  If you would any imput would be great.

stevdart 
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Posted: February 16, 2005 at 7:57 AM / IP Logged  

Generally, power wire and wire fusing is intended to provide for the maximum that an amp might pull, so you use the fuse rating of the amp to determine wiring.  4.x 40 = 160 amps, so the power wire and main wire fuse should be able to pass slightly more than that safely.

But you would determine your amp's actual amperage pull by using Ohm's Law I = sq.rt.( P / R ), using peak power rating of the amp for P.  R is the impedance load on the amp.  There are always some assumptions, though, when you are using rated power data.  Actual testing is best. 

The first question should always be:  "Will the alternator provide the current needed above and beyond what the car needs?" 

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Walkercustoms 
Copper - Posts: 219
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Posted: February 16, 2005 at 2:25 PM / IP Logged  

When I find that out and say its not big enough how would I go about finding a new alternator?

oonikfraleyoo 
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Posted: February 16, 2005 at 2:42 PM / IP Logged  
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Captanham 
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Posted: February 16, 2005 at 9:24 PM / IP Logged  
there are a lot more places to find alternators, call your local parts stores, ask around, i know of a few local places in indiana, there is also stinger that makes them, you can go to aamp of america to get that, ohio generator makes good ones, but i'd call your local small bussiness places first, i know the local shop here has a 4 guy shop that respins alts himself, good work, CHEEP and they last,, so get out the ol phone book, don't be afraid to ask people, you can save a lot of money just by searching around
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Walkercustoms 
Copper - Posts: 219
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Posted: February 17, 2005 at 8:24 AM / IP Logged  
Ok I found that the alter is 135amps for my SRT-4.  Now with that being known how do I figure what size alter I need.  If the amp is capable of 160 and the car is only 135 how do I know what I need to cover the amp and my car.  My smaller systems I never really worried about because I never had this issue.  Now that my new system is going to be a monster I want to make sure I have all sides covered so I don't destroy anything.  Also, could I put some kind of regulator in line to produce the 17volts the amp is capable of doing?
Captanham 
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Posted: February 17, 2005 at 10:13 AM / IP Logged  
well you have to figure your system (the car) doesn't actually require the full 135, and your 160 by  your system would be nice to have all that added with another alt, but you probably wont beable to find one over 200 maybe 220, but that would be fine, the extra 70 or so amps will really help, and that should be plenty for the system, as far as the regulator, from what i've heard neons (or srt-4s as they are ashamed to be called neons) have a computer controlled regulator, so i'm not sure if you can get an alt with any different output voltage, now i know they do make moduals to controll that voltage from the computer, or that's what stinger tells me. Anyways, i would NOT recommend running a 17 volt system, unless you were running an isolated battery / alternator system for your alternator.. Your cars electronics are designed to run from about 11.5 volts up to about 15 with out major problems, but when you get up into the 14.5 15 volt range or anything higher you run the risk of circuts overloading or having to much power going threw them and frying.. So if you wanna step up the 13.8 that your car runs at to something like 14.5 or MAYBE 15, that would be ok, but 17 you would probably loose some of the factory components (not speakers, like computers and what not) i wouldn't risk it... just get some big power wire and that big alt, and if it's putting out enough you should beable to hold a steady 14 volt range, that will do very good for your amp. Because right now your amplifier probably drops the voltage down to about 11 or so volts when it's really going, but i wouldn't worrie as much about the 17 v unless your doing like DB drag or something, it's just not worth the pain in the ass it would be to do a step up system or isolation. anyways, hope i helped, and sorry about rambling, i've been told it's hard to read what i write because i don't use puctuation, so sorry about that..
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Walkercustoms 
Copper - Posts: 219
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Posted: February 17, 2005 at 11:06 AM / IP Logged  

Captanham, you rock dude.  I read it just fine i don't use any of that stuff either does it will make you understand what you are tring to say any better I don't think so.  I help is great.  This is what I am going to do.  I have a Visonik V918XD amp, 2 MA1200XLs, MA HK3x and a MA 5fard cap.  I plan to run a dry gel in the front of the car ( replace stock battery) a dry gel in the trunk and the cap.  I am going to un 0ga from one battery to the other 0ga to the cap from the battery in the trunk and 2ga to the dist block and 2ga to the amp.  We (brother and I) and do small installs and custom fab this project is going in my car to show customers what we can do if they have the money and the time.  But, I just want to go big on mine so I know how to do one if time comes.  Smaller systems we have done nobady has had any problems but, we want to get to bigger and more challanging installs. 

Thanks Cap you the man.

Wade

newtone 
Copper - Posts: 62
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Joined: February 09, 2005
Posted: February 17, 2005 at 12:00 PM / IP Logged  

try

www.highoutputalternator.com

www.ohiogen.com

i use the ohio generator, a 220amp, in my jeep, which has the same charging set up as your car, both chrysler.  it has an external regulator, adjustable upto 20vdc.  like captanham says though, it will fry your factory electrical.  i have to rewire the whole output sytem using relays and all sorts of neat tricks to bypass the computer and its internal regulator and still allow the vehicle to run when burping the system at high voltages.  pain in the butt.  definately not for everyday use,  so stick with a good strong 14-15v charging alternator and you'll be fine.

Captanham 
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Posted: February 17, 2005 at 2:06 PM / IP Logged  
sounds like you have it all planned out, visonik amps are pretty effecient, so i think with the dual batteries and the big wire you should be pretty good, that's a newer vehicle so its got a decent alt on it to start with, i think you should be fine going with that, good luck... and thanks for your suport for people who don't use proper english, haha,.. what kind of a box are you planning on using? just wondering, good luck with everything man
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