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Get the Rattle Out


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Master Asylum 
Silver - Posts: 400
Silver spacespace
Joined: November 05, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: April 05, 2005 at 7:57 AM / IP Logged  

Ok I got the toys in and running in the car, woohoo. And inside it sounds great. My car is apparently well built so far. The only problems I am having for rattle are my trunk's plastic black section with the red reflectors and backup lights. Got it off at like 3 AM last night to see if I could, so I can mat the stupid thing. (Like responsible for atleast 60% of the rattle.) IOther then that piece the only problems I have left with obnoxious rattle is the trunk being flimsy and the stupid little hook the trunk latches to. Here are some options I have considered:

#1:B-Quiet Ultimate, 50 sq ft, $129.99+S&H of like $8.99. Equivalent of Dynamat Extreme but ya know, reasonably priced.

#2: B-Quiet Extreme, 12 or 50 sq ft, Price depending on amount. Not as good for sound filtering but I am wanting the rattle to disappear, therefore any basic form of mat is probably gonna do that well enough, so economical, which is where I want to be.

#3: Dynamat Dynashield for the trunk hook. I can't think of any other option. Something like $30 at the stereo shop in Dayton(30-45 min drive on highway) that I'd rather avoid.

#4: Anything reasonable and proven effective would be greatly appreciated.

Hoping to hear some opinions on the B-Quiet(Brown Bread) products too. From what I'm seeing there isn't a down side and the reason for cheaper pricing is logical. Let me know ASAP please, wanna kill this.

1998 Monte Carlo w/
Eclipse CD8454
2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C
2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369
1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel
2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm
wheelerdr 
Copper - Posts: 337
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 25, 2004
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: April 05, 2005 at 8:19 AM / IP Logged  
brown bead works good, and may seem weird but ryno liner works real good and looks nice when rolled on real thick
Master Asylum 
Silver - Posts: 400
Silver spacespace
Joined: November 05, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: April 05, 2005 at 9:40 AM / IP Logged  

Rhino liner is weight hefty though, otherwise I'd use it. I was considering that as well for my trunk latch.

UPDATE:

I went ahead and tried to use my dynamat left over from the 6x9 project like 1/2 year ago. I applied it to the contact points and the screw down areas and it has reduced some of the plastic problem. My drastic options are gonna be using some window sealent to seal the panel down(Which would suck since my reverse lights are locate in the panel and you can't remove it afterwards). The middle isn't really being flushed against the metal to take out the rattle. *sigh* I'm also considering a small patch of dynamat (I've made the 4 sq ft of dynamat last my 6x9 where they wasted a LOT for it, to help fix my rear deck contacts of plastic and panels, and now to do most of the serious contact points on my trunk with like 1 sq ft left.) I might try and put the dynamat under the weather stripping to increase the pressure on that point and hopefully take care of it. I can't really get much else. I might run another strip on the bottom contact of the trunk to add more pressure. (2 lips, 1 on bumper and 1 on trunk, the bumper is covered.)

1998 Monte Carlo w/
Eclipse CD8454
2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C
2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369
1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel
2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm
DYohn 
Moderator - Posts: 10,741
Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: April 05, 2005 at 9:55 AM / IP Logged  
If it is a plastic piece that is rubbing and vibrating against another surface, use a strip of rubber between them.  Depending on the gap between the two pieces you can use an old bicycle inner tube or sheet rubber gasket material.  Just glue it to one surface or the other, or use mounting screws to hold it in place.  If it's a larger gap (like under a lisence plate) I've gotten good results with thin sheets of foam rubber from fabric stores or with stick-on foam window gasket material.
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overworked2 
Copper - Posts: 132
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 10, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 05, 2005 at 10:35 AM / IP Logged  
Just as a thought....I once used silicone along the edge where the braces meet the skin, as it was only spot welded on, I siliconed it up and it stopped the rattle at no cost....thanks for the silicone boss! It doesn't deaden the boot obviously but it did shut the bloody thing up! I'm still having trouble with my roof braces though...just can't get them to stop! brown braeding them is gonna be pretty costly!
Check all advice given with a meter
Master Asylum 
Silver - Posts: 400
Silver spacespace
Joined: November 05, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: April 05, 2005 at 11:28 AM / IP Logged  

Dyohn the rubber stuff might be a good idea, I'll look into that.

overworked, not entirely sure what you are saying there man. Miscommunication of language or what? :/

The biggest problem with the plastic is not so much the contact points making the noise now, but the vibration it is causing in some areas because it can't be snug against the metal of the trunk. Where I have gotten it snug courtesy of the bolts, its solid as hell. But there is a good like 2 ft section that isn't drastically tightened on towards the top. And it doesn't even lay FLAT against the metal, it is like one area towards the top where people can see that is making contact at all, so hidden application is a bitch.

1998 Monte Carlo w/
Eclipse CD8454
2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C
2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369
1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel
2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm

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