amplifier installation to stock head unit

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bfrogsnuffer

Member - Posts: 2

Joined: April 04, 2005

Location: Delaware, United States

Posted: April 07, 2005 at 7:16 AM / IP Logged

I am in the process of getting together all of the related hardware to install my amps in a 2000 Chevrolet Suburban. The vehicle in question has no Onstar and no Bose high power stereo. My question is as follows. When I cut into the factory wiring harness, where do the wires going to the 8" subwoofer and the 2 far rear 3" speakers run? I don't want to risk blowing these speakers from a mistake on my part. I will be replacing the rear factory sub with a sealed enclosure and need to have the wiring intact to the far rear speakers for a future upgrade. Just to keep running on, will this amplifier installation, cutting in after the harness for my rear seat audio controls, complicate or interfere in any way with the headset jacks located in the rear audio controls?

Any information would be appreciated.

Thanks.

bfrogsnuffer

stevdart

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Joined: January 24, 2004

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: April 07, 2005 at 8:53 AM / IP Logged

If I understand you, you want to replace the sub now...so you will be installing an amp and a sub. Later you will install an amp for speakers and replace those as well. Is that right?

Are you also replacing the factory deck?

TruckSystem

Copper - Posts: 185

Joined: March 18, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: April 07, 2005 at 9:06 AM / IP Logged

I would purchase a wiring harness adapter for the vehicle instead of butchering the factory wiring, especially if you still have any form of warrenty. It also makes putting it back to stock if ever necessary a whole lot easier for very little cost, mine for a 2003 Silverado only cost like 15 bucks. This would apply if you were replacing the deck though, if not there is no need to even splice into the wiring behind the radio, just figure out what colors you need from a diagram online somewhere.

Sub wiring will be new if your adding an amp since it will come from a different source, just tape off the ends of the old ones and hide them somewhere in case you need them again someday. Run new wire from the amp to the sub and leave all the stock stuff intact and just find a wire that is only on when the vehicle is on to tap for the remote turn on lead.

2003 Chevrolet Silverado Standard Cab ~ Alpine CDA-9851

Diamond Audio D3600.1 ~ 2x Diamond Audio TM310D4

Diamond Audio D3400.4 ~ Diamond Audio Hex S600s

AstroStart RS5204 Remote Start/Alarm

bfrogsnuffer

Member - Posts: 2

Joined: April 04, 2005

Location: Delaware, United States

Posted: April 07, 2005 at 3:28 PM / IP Logged

I am not going to change out the factory head unit. I have grown accustomed to the dual-zone audio controls, because my kids and I don't always agree on the music selection. My speakers are already upgraded. Kicker KX65 in the rear doors and Infinity Reference 5-1/2" component speakers in the front doors. I have 2 amps to install, an older model Pioneer 200w 2ch and a Profile 700w 4 ch. I will need to install LOC's under the dash to feed the Profile and Just jump an RCA signal to the Pioneer. I have 95% of the related install material ( I had this system in a 1990 Suburban, but was running a Sony after market head unit and wiring was not an issue due to the pre amp outs) My goal is to have a clean installation, that is realatively hassle free. Ihave a color code diagram (courtesy of the12volt) Is there a "Y" adapter made by anyone to connect to the 20 pin input on the factory head unit?

bfrogsnuffer

kgerry

Platinum - Posts: 3,455

Joined: February 07, 2004

Location: Saskatchewan, Canada

Posted: April 07, 2005 at 4:00 PM / IP Logged

yes, Metra makes a line of "T" harnesses... i believe they start with a 73 # as opposed to the regular 70 or 71 series....

Kevin Gerry

Certified Electronics Technician

MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer

Classic Car Audio

since 1979

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amplifier installation to stock head unit

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