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Inline Fuse for Kenwood KAC-9152D?


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plpwheeler 
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Member spacespace
Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: July 07, 2005 at 7:06 PM / IP Logged  

Hello, I'm running a Kenwood KAC-9152D mono amp thats rated 500 watts into 4ohms and 900 watts into 2 ohms.  I'm using 4 gauge wire to a splitter fuse box, then 10 gauge from there to the amp.  From there it runs 10 gauge speaker wire to two Audiobahn ALUM12N's using both voice coils in parallel for a 1.5 ohm load.  My problem is what size fuse should I use in the inline fuse block?  I had a 30 amp there first, but it blew when I was pushing the subs really hard.  The amp itself has two 30 amp fuses built into it now, so should I got 50 or 60 amps for the inline???  Any help or recommendations would be great!  Plus, would this be the best way to hook these subs up to get the most power to them?

Thanks, Patrick...

tcss 
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Silver spacespace
Joined: June 07, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: July 07, 2005 at 7:38 PM / IP Logged  
First, you need to go to at LEAST 8ga wire from your splitter on an amp that size.If your total amp fuse rating is 60 amps I would use an 80 amp fuse or breaker. The inline fuse protects the wire not the amp.
haemphyst 
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Joined: January 19, 2003
Location: Michigan, Bouvet Island
Posted: July 07, 2005 at 11:59 PM / IP Logged  
tcss wrote:
First, you need to go to at LEAST 8ga wire from your splitter on an amp that size.If your total amp fuse rating is 60 amps I would use an 80 amp fuse or breaker. The inline fuse protects the wire not the amp.
First: The 8 gauge is good advice, you'll get better performance from your amp too...
Second: ....aaaand... How much current is a #4 good for? That's RIGHT 150A, so THAT is how big a fuse should be in your cable, and no larger. Yes, you COULD buy an 80A fuse and holder right now, but what if you want to upgrade with another amp later? You'd have to buy another fuseholder then. Just go as big as you are ALLOWED to right away, and then never have to think about it again...
For the extra 5 to 8 dollars it's gonna cost right now, I'd do it that way, rather than have to completely replace it in the even of an upgrade...
Third: DVC 4 ohm, I'm guessing? Either wire the woofer coils in parallel, then wire the woofers in series, or wire the woofer coils in series, then wire the woofers in parallel... this'll give you a 4 ohm load, for 500 watts (shyah, right) out...
Here's what your wiring will look like... Sorry, but that's all there is.
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
stevdart 
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Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: July 08, 2005 at 5:54 AM / IP Logged  
Those subs are DVC 6 ohm, aren't they?  But I'm wondering if that amp will be able to handle a load like that.
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
haemphyst 
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Joined: January 19, 2003
Location: Michigan, Bouvet Island
Posted: July 08, 2005 at 8:41 AM / IP Logged  
stevdart wrote:
Those subs are DVC 6 ohm, aren't they?  But I'm wondering if that amp will be able to handle a load like that.
Yep... my bad. You got a choice of 1.5 or 6 ohms... 1.5 ohms MIGHT work, but I would not recommend it on that Kenwood amp, so... that leaves a 6 ohm load... Get different (read: DVC 4 ohm, and preferably something with a little less chrome) woofers, that'll serve you better...
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

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