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borked 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2005
Posted: August 24, 2005 at 12:43 PM / IP Logged  

I installed some infinity component speakers front and rear with a california ap 1040 amp powering them. Everything seems to be wired ok, and grounds ok. No bare wires. However whenever I hit my brakes or turn my turn signal. My speakers pop, which disrupts my music for a split second. Any ideas? My subwoofer used to pop with my speakers however I fixed that by grounding the rca preout to the head unit. My setup goes Kenwood HU to LOC to amp, then amp to factory wiring to speakers for the front, and for the rear it goes factory wire to loc, to amp and new 14 g wire from speaker to amp. Both front and back pop, So either I think its interference from the LOC or something else.

I was thinking of maybe doing a filter and a line booster to compensate but im not sure where id need to install it.

stevdart 
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Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: August 24, 2005 at 7:04 PM / IP Logged  
 Why are you using an LOC with a Kenwood amp?
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
borked 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2005
Posted: August 24, 2005 at 7:34 PM / IP Logged  
Well, my kenwood hu only has 1 preout which is being used for the subwoofer, to my mono amp. My mono amp has an output rca jack, however I needed 2 sets also when I used the output of my mono amp to go in to my 4 channel amp. It sounded bad, like muffled and half the power was gone. When I use the LOC it sounds 100x better
borked 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2005
Posted: August 24, 2005 at 7:36 PM / IP Logged  
Also every once in awhile when I brake my speakers fade and cut out then come back after i stop braking, if that helps in the diagnosis.
stevdart 
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Posted: August 24, 2005 at 11:33 PM / IP Logged  

You said your sub used to pop but you grounded the RCA to the head unit.  So...there is a ground problem.  The other amp is not connected via RCA's to the head unit and it still shows the problem.  Check grounds by first reading the "ground" stickys at the top of the page.  That would be number one priority.  After that, if done completely and new grounding doesn't do the job, a word or two about your setup:

That is a very different way of getting around the fact that your deck has only one set of preouts.  You should be able to run a full, un-EQ'd signal to your amp, then to splitters to feed the 4-channel.  As long as the deck settings are allowing a full signal out, there should be no drop in signal that would affect the sound.  A line output converter should only be used when you're dealing with a factory deck.

Your description says

My setup goes Kenwood HU to LOC to amp, then amp to factory wiring to speakers for the front, and for the rear it goes factory wire to loc, to amp and new 14 g wire from speaker to amp

I don't get this part:  Kenwood HU to LOC to amp  A LOC picks up the signal from the speaker wire...so how is it connected to both the head unit and to the rear factory speaker wires?  If it is getting its 12 volt source from the deck, remove it and get the 12 volts from another switched source.

The system wiring is suspect.  I would redo it as I mentioned above, checking your deck settings for output....or if that still remains unsatisfactory add an Audio Control unit or equivalent to give you more preouts.  But some troubleshooting in the meantime (in whatever order you want, as long as the grounding issue has been explored first):

  • Remove the remote turn on from one amp, see if the trouble remains with the other one.  Then switch and do the same with the second amp.  You want to find out if the effect from the turn signal and brakes are showing up this way.
  • Remove the LOC altogether from the amp, replace with the splitters as said above and see if the problem continues.  Eliminate the LOC as the problem source.
  • Disconnect the front outputs that go to the factory wiring.  Pull a speaker out or use a test speaker connected with new wires directly to the amp.  This is to eliminate the factory wiring as the culprit.
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
borked 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2005
Posted: August 25, 2005 at 9:40 AM / IP Logged  

wrote:

I don't get this part:  Kenwood HU to LOC to amp  A LOC picks up the signal from the speaker wire...so how is it connected to both the head unit and to the rear factory speaker wires?  If it is getting its 12 volt source from the deck, remove it and get the 12 volts from another switched source.

I just worded it this way, to say basically my LOC are getting their signal from the head unit. My head unit is feeding into my factory wiring harness for my speakers. For the rear I tapped into the factory wiring to run the LOC RCA's to my amp. Then because it was easy, I used new wiring from the rear speakers to the amp for power.On the front, I cut the factory wires for the front speakers and, tapped into the side still connected to the HU for my LOC to get signal. The other side which is no longer wired to anything but my front door speakers I connected to new speaker wire, that I then ran to the amp. I left the front speakers running off factory wiring, because I couldn't figure out a workable solution to threading new wires to my front doors.

Now that i've explained that, I just want to say thanks for the great info and ideas. Very informative, and a great help. Hopefully I can get this squared away with the solutions you provided.

stevdart 
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Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: August 25, 2005 at 9:48 AM / IP Logged  
Ok, I gotcha.  One other thing you can do is isolate the two LOC inputs.  Use just one at a time to check if the input signal is being affected somewhere.  But because you had to ground your deck to your amp using the RCA's, you know there is a ground continuity problem.  As I said, make that your priority.  Good luck.
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
borked 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2005
Posted: August 25, 2005 at 9:49 AM / IP Logged  

wrote:
If it is getting its 12 volt source from the deck, remove it and get the 12 volts from another switched source.

Could you ellaborate a little please?

stevdart 
Platinum - Posts: 5,816
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Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: August 25, 2005 at 9:52 AM / IP Logged  
Disregard that.  I was just trying to figure out what you meant by deck to LOC to amp.
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
borked 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2005
Posted: August 25, 2005 at 3:53 PM / IP Logged  

wrote:
But because you had to ground your deck to your amp using the RCA's

Am I experiencing, a Ground loop? Also So you're saying I created a common ground  between my deck and my hu, by sticking a bare wire in the rca preout of my deck and shoving the rcas that are ran to my amp in behind the bare wire then fixing it to my deck? I guess since that fixed my subwoofer, I suppose if I split the RCA cable that is not affected(since it's now grounded) that should fix the issue, at least in the rear.

Alright dude, ill give it a shot tomorrow ill post and let ya know what happens. Thanks a lot!


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