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How to calculate an amp's power usage?


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Techmaster 
Member - Posts: 42
Member spacespace
Joined: December 01, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: January 16, 2007 at 12:13 AM / IP Logged  
I remember reading many years ago, somewhere, a basic way of figuring out the power consumption of an amp, but can't remember what the formula was. In other words, let's say an amp comes with 60 amps of fusing. Obviously, that amp doesn't actually run at 60 amps, the 60 amps is a worst case scenario, meaning if the power usage gets that high, something must be wrong. I believe the formula figured in RMS/peak wattage rating or something, perhaps it was as simple as this?:
A 500w RMS / 1500w peak amp
RMS is 1/3 of peak
Fuse is 60a, but is made to handle the amp's peak, so the RMS usage must be 1/3 of that, or 20a.
I doubt it was that simple, but if it was, then I'm amazed I actually remembered it. If anybody can shed some light on this, it would definitely be appreciated.
There's some reasoning behind this question, being that I ordered an amp a while back. It was supposed to be a Diamond Audio 600.1, which apparently has been discontinued and replaced with the 800.1. (both are class d monoblocks) Well, I got the 800.1, after having planned my entire system around the 600. I've got all the wiring and distribution parts already as well. Therein lies the problem. The power output of the amp shouldn't be a problem. I'll just keep the gain down low, and the 800.1 should pretty much act like a 600.1. But, the 600.1 is rated at 70a and the 800.1 is rated at 90a.
For distribution, I got a single 4ga to a quad 8ga fused distribution block. It uses AGU fuses, which we all know go up to 80a. That's a problem when the amp is rated at 90a. I'm almost positive I can probably put an 80a fuse in there and be okay, but I wanted to see if anybody else might know for sure if an amp like that will be continuously blowing an 80a fuse if it's rated for 90a. Thanks in advance.
stevdart 
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Joined: January 24, 2004
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Posted: January 16, 2007 at 6:32 AM / IP Logged  

If the amp is 1 ohm stable, then 90 amps should handle peak at that rating.  RMS should be 1/2 of that, or 45 amps at 1 ohm.  If you have a 2 ohm load attached to the amp, the peak should be more like 45 amps peak and 22.5 amps RMS.  That is using a set of assumptions which may not be accurate in real life.

But then there are these possibilities:  that at 1 ohm peak is higher than 90 amps but those fuses were used for basically two reasons.  One, the convenience factor of using three easily attainable fuses, and two, that the physical limits of the amplifier are reached at that current level.  I don't know exactly what is the case here.  There also is the limitations of the car's power supply, which may not be able to provide such a high current in actual operation.  And it could be that the 2 ohm load is not actually half of the 1 ohm rating for this amp, but maybe 2/3 or so.  (The Diamond site isn't working for me to look up specs).

But my bet is that you will end up fine with your current wiring setup.  You only have to blow the fuse once to know that an upgrade may be needed.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Techmaster 
Member - Posts: 42
Member spacespace
Joined: December 01, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: January 16, 2007 at 10:05 AM / IP Logged  

Well, it's got a regulated power supply, so the amp draw should go up as voltage drops, so that it can output the same wattage...

Now, my 4ch amp is going to run at 4 ohms and I believe it's 2ohm stable, and it's fused for 40a.  It's a class AB amp, but I'm guessing it'll probably draw closer to 20a.  It's only going to be putting out 50x4.

So I guess I wasn't too far off in what I was thinking with the formulas.  I know there are a lot of other factors that are nearly impossible to calculate and/or figure into the equation, but it's one of those general "rule of thumb" things that you can kind of get a general assumption out of.  With a 90a and a 40a amp, hopefully my real draw will be more like 60a with the two amps together.  I guess if I start blowing 80a fuses with my current distro block, I might have to upgrade to one with mini-ANL fuses in it so it can handle more amperage.

wotugot4me 
Copper - Posts: 64
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 09, 2005
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 16, 2007 at 10:58 AM / IP Logged  

have a look at ohms law and you should be able to figure it out with the specs u have.

https://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslaw.asp

wotugot4me 
Copper - Posts: 64
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 09, 2005
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 16, 2007 at 11:06 AM / IP Logged  

Remember too that music is dynamic so you will very rarely, if ever be drawing that much current from your amps. Your 20a calculation is probably a lot less during normal listening conditions.


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