wiring problem, dead battery

I have a 1991 Ford Ranger 4.0/V6 and wired a Aftermarket Generation AGA-1201 Alarm/RemoteStart that I purchased from ebay. I only bought this to turn my manual door locks into auto, and only wired up 2 of the 5 harnesses that came with it, which I thought were only needed for the door locks. I wired it y-day, and it worked fine, then came back to a dead battery today. I'm wondering if I wired this wrong or have too many wires going to the +12volt constant. These are the only things I wired: 5-pin Main Harness - Orange - to Accessory Purple - to Starter Pink - to Ignition Pink/White - supposed to be to 2nd Ignition Input (but I didn't wire because I only found 1 ignition wire in Ignition Harness) Red - to Main Power Output (wired to the +12volt constant in ignition harness) 10-pin Primary Harness: Brown - Siren (not connected) White - Parking lights Violet - Unlock #87a to Ground Violet/Black - Lock #87a to Ground BROWN / Black - #87 to +12volt constant in Ignition Harness WHITE/ Black - #87 to +12volt constant in Ignition Harness Blue/Black - #30 to blue wire in door lock accuators GREEN/ Black - #30 to green wire in door lock accuators Red - +12volt constant wired to Ignition Harness Black - System Ground wired to same ground as #87a After I installed it, it worked great and had no problems. This morning battery is dead. I re-checked all the wires and they seem to be going to the right places. I have 2 questions: 1) All of the connections that call for the +12volt constant, are wired to the same yellow wire in my ignition harness. Does that matter, or should I wire a couple to the other yellow, which I assume is also a +12volt constant or directly to the battery? 2) Since I'm not using the alarm/remote start part of the unit do I really even need to have the main 5-pin harness wired? Does the power/ground wires in the 10-pin sufficiently give the brain enough power to run the door accuators? Please help if you can...Thanks in advance.

Your 5 pin harness is for remote start only and since you arent using the remote start part of the alarm, there is no need to connect those wires. Also, you stated that you have all your constant 12V+ connected to the ignition yellow wire at the ignition switch? You dont want to connect any constant 12V+ to an ignition wire because the igntion wire only has 12 volts when the car is turned to the on position or the engine is running. I dont understand your door lock parts either. Im assuming you are using 2 relays for those correct?

Oh and to answer your other question. The power wire gives the brain the power to function. Your lock and unlock wires get the power from that relay's particular power wires. Your alarm will just send off a signal that will trigger the relay, then the constant power that runs to that relay will actually be the power to lock and unlock the doors. Most alarms like mine give off a negative trigger to the relay. That trips the relay and sends the constant 12V to the motor then.

Audioman, thank you very much for replying...I really appreciate the help, because this dead battery thing is a real bummer. I will remove the 5-pin harness since I don't have remote start. To answer your questions: 1) I found a 1991 Ford Ranger Wiring Diagram on this site, and it says the 12V Constant is a yellow wire in the Ignition Harness. I found 2 yellow wires in the harness and tapped into it. There was an actual ignition wire that was RED / light green. Here's the wiring diagram: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/880.html 2) I bought the alarm/door accuators together and the kit says it's all inclusive, so I'm assuming the relays are part of the accuator. The directions didn't say to include any other relays. How would I tell and if I don't have relays, would that be the reason the battery died? Also, if I don't have relays, would it have even worked at all? (because it did work last night) 3) In reference to the door lock wiring, I found this thread in the forum and ran the wires the same way this guy was told to: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=64965&KW=ranger Did this guy get bad advice? Thanks again!

Hey I apoligize about the ignition wire colors. In mostly all vehicles, the constant is red and ignition is yellow. A perfect way to check if you have the correct wire is to use a DMM. Probe the ignition wire with red on the DMM and ground the black on DMM. Insert and turn key to "on" and if 12V only runs through that wire when turned to on, then thats your ignition. If its a constant 12V no matter where the key is or even is not inserted, then its constant. My fiance car did not have power door locks, rather the person that had sold the car had them installed. When I went to look at how her's were wired, there were 2 relays. Now I am not sure if those 2 relays were for just the drivers side door or if they were for both drivers side and passengers side. But what I do know is that those relays are there for a reason. Your alarm is not able to send enough current to actually power the actuators. Instead it sends the current to the relay to trip it, then sends the power from the relay to the actuator. The only thing I can see that is draining the battery is if you have the relay's wired wrong to where it is shorting themselves out. Thats like taking a power wire and grounding it to the chassis. It is shorting thus draining the battery. Anyways, to first test this I would simply disconnect those relays and let the vehicle sit to see if the battery is draining then.

Another thing...... your alarm should have some wires for door locks. What colors are those wires and also look in the manual and tell me what color wires do what for the door locks.

The 10-pin harness, which covers all the door lock wires is exactly as follows: 1-Brown: Siren Output. Connect to the red wire of the siren (I didn't actually connect) 2-White: Parking lot Output Relay. Connect to circuit that shows 12V or ground only when parking lights are on and set the internal parking light relay jumper to the proper polarity. For parking light circuits exceeding 10 amps, a relay is required. 3-Violet: Unlock #87a Normally Closed 4-Blue/Black: Unlock #30 Common (Output) 5-BROWN / Black: Unlock #87 Normally Open (Input) 6-Violet/Black: Lock #87a Normally Closed 7-GREEN/ Black: Lock #30 Common (Output) 8-WHITE/ Black: Lock #87 Normally Open (Input) 9-Red: Constant +12V 10-Black: System Ground I wired it according to the link on this page: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=64965&KW=ranger The accuators have 2 wires coming from them, a blue and a green. Specifically, I wired both #87a wires to ground, both #87 wires to +12V Constant, the blue/black #30 to the accuator's blue wire, and the GREEN/ black #30 to the accuator's green wire. 2 Questions: 1) In reference to needing relays, you said, "Your alarm is not able to send enough current to actually power the actuators". If this was true, wouldn't they not have worked at all? (the doors locked/unlocked properly right after I installed them) 2) Why does the harness have a wire (red) that is specifically for +12V power, and then the thread above also indicates wiring the #87 wires to +12V power too. Is the red for the power to the brain, and the #87 wires power to the accuators? I'm just wondering if maybe that has something to do with my battery draining?

Gentlemen, Thank you both for your feedback. I jumped the car, unplugged the 5-pin harness, and the door locks are working fine right now. I let it run for about 30 mins and hopefully that charged the battery up. I will check in the morning to see if I have a dead battery or not. I'll keep you posted, but thanks again!