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2001 lexus is300 power door locks


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snoop23 
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Posted: March 04, 2008 at 1:58 PM / IP Logged  
I am looking to control my door [lock/unlock] switch remotely with a 5 V control line.  Does anyone have any suggestions for doing this?  It will basically be a momentary switch that outputs either 0 V or 5 V when activated.
tedmond 
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Posted: March 04, 2008 at 2:42 PM / IP Logged  
well th elocks are Type B or negative trigger. now to make it work you need a strong 12v ground to trigger the door locks. Using 5volts might and might not work. the dangerous/risk is the wires you need are at the ECM. sending a wrong voltage in might toast the ECM.
snoop23 
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Posted: March 04, 2008 at 2:49 PM / IP Logged  
So could I use the 5 V output to control a PNP type transistor to send that line to GND?  Could I tap into the wires that are directly connected to the OEM rocker switch and just ground that line?
howie ll 
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Posted: March 04, 2008 at 4:10 PM / IP Logged  
On the UK version, IS 2/300 we have to open the BCM above fuse box, cut 2 lines on the circuit board, solder 4 wires to the ends and relay interrupt (AKA 5 wire) to control the locks. Don't  have to go into the door.
enice 
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Posted: March 04, 2008 at 6:45 PM / IP Logged  

Here in the US you have to use a relay to make the door locks work properly.  Toyota has something called lock detection so you cant just tap into the actual door lock switch..use doc 1041 i think from DEI......or find a document that refers to that.

tedmond 
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Posted: March 05, 2008 at 6:48 AM / IP Logged  
isnt that document for allowin the door to actaully unlock with the child safety? its just bypassing it with a relay and some diodes,  or its just been too long since i used Directwire 2001 lexus is300 power door locks -- posted image.
enice 
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Posted: March 05, 2008 at 6:45 PM / IP Logged  

Well from personal experience if you dont do it then it would actually not allow you to control the locks after you use the factory remote.  An example is passive arming...when you disarm the alarm it would not unlock.  I then switched to that wiring and it works all the time even after using the factory remote.

chriswallace187 
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Posted: March 05, 2008 at 10:20 PM / IP Logged  

Snoop23 you'll want to check out this document here - opens a new window with a PDF.

Assuming that whatever remote device you're trying to use will have the same V+ as the car, if it can supply around 300mA for each 0V output you shouldn't have a problem.  If it can't supply that much you're on the right path with transistors.

Note that the wires you need to connect to are at the module inside the door.

C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

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