migrating dei 6500esp to 5900 sst

Hey folks.. long time no post.

Vehicle:   2004 Mustang V6 Auto

1) I see the new unit included the HiCap relay module, fine, though apparently this part throws a ground while armed AS WELL as the brain itself. I'm pretty sure that I have the Brain GWA tapped for the ANTIgrind and starter kill already. Should I swap?

2) from what I can see, the rest of the connections are going to be a bunch of clip 'n soldier connector swaps, but are there any GOTCHAs that I should know?

3) 'Comfort mode' - Window closures and the like: this I assume was made to wire into the DEI window control modules, correct?

3) Antenna placement - The manual states vertical placement: i.e. antennas pointed straight up and down?? Somehow logic is failing me here based on the logo on the antenna patch which suggests horzontal install.  Please advise. 

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I strongly suggest to use the Blue (STATUS) at the XCRS for immobilizer bypass.

Comfort Closure sends a 20 second ground pulse on the lock wire after the doors lock. This works with cars like Volks, Honda and others that will roll up the windows and close sunroof while turning a key in the door. No extra module required except maybe a relay. Your Ford doesn't have this feature.

Antenna vertical? Nope. It's a di-pole. Put it horizontal.

UPDATE:

Installed Viper 5900.

  Two Problems and a quirk:

       2. I have a Hornet voice module (516L I believe), and, since install of the new Viper brain, seems to be getting GWA from the brain during remote start. I know there were statements in the 516 install guide that states certian features might/might not work with both the Sidewinder/Viper units and the 516.  Either something is amiss wiring wise, or there's a feature I need to adjust.  Diode, switch, or rewire?

       3. The rear defogger output I used a relay to throw (+) to the defogger switch with the defogger control wire in 'Validity' mode. At this time it seems to work as expected from the remote with one caviat, I must 'double execute' the command to initiate the defogger each time.  I don't quite understand why yet, but the brain receives the command each time, but only fires the relay on the second pulse each time. 

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FYI:   

   Similar Wire colors on basically all other harnesses, though not same pinouts or number of wires.

   That's about it.

Question 1:

Does it do the 10 minute runtime when using either the LCD or the companion or with both? DEI systems have ESP which means that it behaves like four brains and four remotes - where each remote can have its own config.

ie, one remote chirps siren when armed, the other does not. One remote runs on tach whereas other remote on voltage sense. etc . . .

There are two ways to get around this.

1) Arm/Disarm with one remote then program all features then repeat the excercise with the other remote.

2) Use the bitwriter programmer to select features then press WRITE once then press SELECT until it shows current transmitter as "0" then press WRITE. Selecting "0" will program all transmitters the same and bypass the ESP feature.

Question 2:

Does it say "System armed" when it remote starts? If not, what's it doing?

Question 3:

Why do you have rear defog on an auxiliary channel instead of using the Blue/White programmed for defrost? When using the Blue/White and programming it for defrost, it automatically turns on the defrost 10 seconds after the car started. Also, there is an onboard thermistor which inhibits the defrost when it's warmer than 32 F.

If you're connected to the RED / White for defrost, remember that this is a trunk release wire meaning that you need to hold the button for at least 2 seconds before it triggers. It's not instant like the other aux channels.

Q1:   At this time, I only have one remote (the LCD), and for the sake of it, I had left the default remote programming in place. While I was just at lunch, I had set the car into Valet Take Over and went into check my mail, well no sooner did that happen then the car shut down a minute later (i.e. Turbo Short Run I assume). Running on a small theory, I went and reprogrammed the 'Start' button on the remote to the 'Remote START" Channel on the 5900. I then proceeded to run it for at least 10 minutes, and it seems to be ok for the time being. Will check tomorrow morning and confirm.

Q2:  Voice response varies. Sometimes I will drive, power off car, shut door, and full manual arm. 'System Armed' confirmed. At that point everything works as expected. (Doors, motion, hood/trunk, remote start, remote voice).   Fine. 

  Q3:  I am using the blue/white for the defogger. I changed the wire operation in the brain though to be the third setting, not  (1) default (Status), or (2) defogger on remote start , but (3) remote trigger only. I didn't realize there was a thermistor that handled that, thought it was overkill to leave on by default. It's obviously easy enough to change.

Trunk and otherwise it working just fine normally.  

UPDATE #2

    1. Remote start timing seems to have been stabilized, however NOW I believe the TACH sense wire is shutting down the vehicle. I'm getting random runtimes in the morning, and throughout the day. The 'shutdown' diagnostics are reporting HIGH and LOW tach signals after I've reprogrammed several times. I'm going to try shutting off 'engine sensing' and see if the remote start stabilizes.

    2. Voice Module: I disabled the Anti-Grind feature. Result = Voices operating as expected.  Unless someone tells me a trick otherwise, I assume that I'll just have to leave the anti-grind off and 'just deal', though I realize that I might be able to find a different status wire to tap off of to detect similar 'GWA' as long as the system is ARMED regardless of whether the ignition is running or not.

LAST UPDATE:

    --Tried Voltage checking instead of Tach, result was worse. Shut off engine checking, increased crank time into the 2nd or 3rd setting. Vehicle starts and runs for configured 24 minutes.  Does not stall.

    --Voice module still operating as expected. AntiGrind still disabled.

I've read the forum notes about engine tach wires, and will likely revisit that later to see if I can bring engine sensing back online.

Still have one channel left on the brain (CH6) that I haven't found a use for yet. :)   Give me time though.

Thanks for reading, unless someone adds more, I'm set with this thread.

--Si