fuel cut relay w/ switch

hi. this is a different approach that I thought of, but i'm not sure how well it will work. it's main advantage is for when someone has acquired your key (but still requires manual activation/deactivation) what do you guys think of this (for cars with remote starters/security so that both functions still work): 2 normally open relays, connected in parallel (on the 30 and 87 pins, to the fuel pump circuit) and on one relay, 85/86 connected to the auxilary output of the remote starter (you don't need full power for the relay and it can be on the ignition or accessory outputs), and the other relay's 85/86 connected to your kill switch. since it's the fuel pump (and not ignition), you're still gonna have fuel to crank the car when the remote starter activates, and your kill switch is required otherwise. since it's in parallel, no extra voltage/current anywhere... this is mainly for if someone was to get your key as well.. however that may happen (otherwise the regular security system would work normally)

Check out this earlier thread discussing a similar issue. You wouldn't necessarily have the same problem as when the ignition wire from the switch was interrupted...but it's generally not a good idea. I would suggest that if you're interrupting anything it should be the starter wire and it should be done well away from where your rs/alarm connections are made and out of sight. Other than that, good thinking on your part.C Renner's Auto Electronix

My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

i guess i don't quite understand remote starters yet. so what i meant was that my starter has a secondary output, selectable from 2nd ignition, 2nd starter, and 2nd accessory. currently, it's not in use. i was assuming that if i used that output (or something similar), that the remote starter would disengage them when the car was started (because they are no longer necessary as the oem wiring is now powering the circuits).. but it sounds like i am wrong? is there some other type of output that turns off when the key is moved into accessory/on? (maybe the turn signal lights? they turn on when my car is remote started and turn off when i turn my key) thanks

rp_guy wrote: hi. this is a different approach that I thought of, but i'm not sure how well it will work. it's main advantage is for when someone has acquired your key (but still requires manual activation/deactivation) what do you guys think of this (for cars with remote starters/security so that both functions still work): this is mainly for if someone was to get your key as well.. however that may happen (otherwise the regular security system would work normally)

I'm still a bit confused as to what situation you're trying to compensate for - is the potential thief going to have your key and every remote associated with the car? Or just the key and nothing else? Key and factory remote, but not the remote starter's control?

There are solutions for each of these - but interrupting the fuel pump is not ideal in any case (and your relay setup won't really work in some of the above cases).

C Renner's Auto Electronix

My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two