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2002 escalade clifford rsx 3.5 problems


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skip1 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: May 15, 2008
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: May 15, 2008 at 9:57 AM / IP Logged  

I'm having some issues with a new install in a 2002 Cadillac Escalade , same as the Denali and Yukon systems of 2001-2002 i believe.  * REALLY scratching my head here - if anyone can shed some light on this i'd be most grateful. -- Its the Clifford RSX 3.5 with (2) 530T window rollup modules, as well as a 507T Tilt sensor.

(1)  DRIVER DOOR UNLOCK ISSUES:

  • ALL doors lock with the arming of the alarm just fine - i used the 451M relay that was in the box and connected it up to the Power Lock (lt blue - pin A4 - brown plug @ BCM) and Power Unlock (white - pin A3 - brown plug @ BCM) wires that correspond to the diagrams I got online and when i disarm the system - ONLY the passenger doors unlock - the drivers door remains locked no matter what.
  • The cadillacs have this computer interface where you can set things like doors lock on start, unlock on exit, etc. - That seems to work just fine on the lock - however when it comes to the unlock - when i turn the car off, it unlocks all the doors EXCEPT the drivers door.
  • The weirdest part is if I take the OLD factory alarn / keyless entrry key fob and hit unlock it unlocks ALL the doors, and also turns on the dome lights in the vehicle which i think is kinda neat - this happens regardless of the status of the dome light override button which is part of the vehicle. - I'd really like to duplicate the exact thing that the factory remote is doing.
  • The drivers door lock and unlock switch seems to function perfectly fine, as does the passengers side - however the fact that the factory system can no longer unlock it along with the rest of the doors is a tad worrysome to me.
  • I see on the directWire wiring information sheet i got from Directed that there is: "Lock Motor" and "Unlock Motor" - 5wi * drivers side, kick door harness. - I assume I need to somehow hook into this but what, where and how, and with that?
  • I see on the alarm it has a feature for "2nd Unlock" which I ASSUME is what i ultimately need to hook to the above 5wi thing - my question is do I just jump over wires from the connections I made that hook it to the passenger doors? maybe?

(2) TILT SENSOR AND TRUNK TRIGGER / INSTANT TRIGGER ISSUES:

  • The tilt sensor says to hook to the blue (instant trigger) on the alarm. - This is the same as the trunk/hatch trigger - so what I did was diode isolate both of these blue wires (strip on diode TOWARDS the Alarm Brain) and then diode isolated the orange wire on the tilt sensor  (strip on diode TOWARDS the Alarm Brain) as well. - However neither the tilt sensor nor the trunk triggers the alarm - and i've verified that the channel works - as i can ground out hte blue lead at the alarm brain harness and it triggers alarm.

(3) 530T WINDOW ROLL-UP MODULES

  • I ran 4 (either 12 or 14 guage) wires * to every door, direct to the wiring at all 4 doors and interfaced with the switches and motors. - ALL the windows seem to work perfectly except the passengers window which gets about 3/4ths the way up and then the resistance on it kills it thinking that its all the way up.
  • Its a very weird thing that sometimes it happens when i use the power window controls as well - other times no. I ran my power right to the ignition harness with (2) 10ga wires right to the seperate units. - The units are diode isolated, etc. - everything is working in that regard, its simply a fact of the ground issue * I think.
  • Has anyone had success grounding these units out to factor bolts that are in the center console area - I am thinking maybe I need to run a better set of grounds (which I am going to try today) to an area closer to the door motors up front.

(4) MISC:

  • a few wires i didn't hook up and wasn't entirely sure what they're for - the Disarm Defeat - anyone know what this is for?

** for anyone who takes the time to respond, i sincerely appreciate you taking time out of your busy day to help someone like me - I promise you the help is well appreciated and I will return the favor if I can.

thanks,

Skiip

Big Dog 
Gold - Posts: 1,265
Gold spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 02, 2002
Location: Quebec, Canada
Posted: May 15, 2008 at 2:05 PM / IP Logged  

1) My guess is that you're on the wrong unlock wire. It's a white wire in driver's kick and requires a positive trigger signal.

2) Diodes are backwards.

3) Swap the two 530T's and test window operation again. Also, try setting switches 1 to 4 to OFF, notice that OFF is UP whereas ON is DOWN as per arrow. If this fails, try this modification : 530T Modification

4) Disregard "Disarm Defeat". It's only for add-on security systems which use the customer's OEM keyfob.

Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.
skip1 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: May 15, 2008
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: May 15, 2008 at 4:23 PM / IP Logged  

A couple follow-up questions for you have already clued me into some stuff I wasn't aware of (the 530T mod).

1) I hooked into the correct wire per the vehicle specific instructions - the "Power Unlock" @ (white wire - pin A3 - brown plug @ BCM) - are you thinking this is wrong? ** are you saying with 100% confidence that I should be able to unlock ALL the doors and LOCK all the doors through the use of the 451 relay module - with it being interfaces between the lock and unlock "paths" as the docs for it state? ** or might i need to employ the use of a 2nd relay here JUST for drivers door? - i'm seeing people who are doing it both ways, i'm very confused.

2) Diodes backwards - is that on both the blue and the orange? everything i read says the stripe on diode towards the brain - but i'm thinking maybe thats on the orange wire only - on blue they should be opposite? or should ALL the diodes face strip away from brain - period?

** as a question here, i diode isolated the 2 wires from the 530T modules with the white stripe adhering to the same rule (towards the brain) - i put one on the accessory trigger wire (for each unit) - andone on the ground when armed (orange) wires the same. - Is this done right?

3) I should have mentioned this at first - when i swap the front/rear modules I still get the same issues.

* the info you provided on the modification is a HUGE help there, never seen this - thank you.
* Are you saying the switches in the manual are right and to disregard anything that the unit says on it as far the ON -> positions? - this seems mighty odd to me but i can play a bit with these and see. - From what i remember i was playing with these settings and all of them were set to lowest and all i got was a little movement - puttting it on the highest setting (from what i could gather) is what got me up so far.

4) thank you - I THOUGHT that was the case but thank you for clarifying that - now i can rest easy :)


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