451 module with arrow 5 in 89 mazda rx7

I'm stumped on how to use a DEI 451 door lock module with a Clifford G5 Arrow 5 into an 89 Mazda RX7. It has central locks and I'm using a DEI 524 Actuator. I'd like the Arrow to arm and disarm my factory alarm. The factory disarm is (-)light GREEN/ black This is what I have so far: The 3 pin plug has 3 wires already attached they are GREEN (neg lock input), RED(pos input for relay coils), BLUE(neg unlock input). These are the five wires also attached to the module.     VIOLET/BLACK wire(lock/unlock normally open #87)--this wire also has inline 15a fuse.     GREEN/ BLACK wire (lock output #30)     WHITE/ BLACK wire(lock normally closed #87A)     BLUE/BLACK wire(unlock output #30)     BROWN / BLACK wire(unlock normally closed #87A I've been told to split the green wire on the 3 pin harness and use a diode on each split to isolate. One split goes to power the actuator the other goes to my (-)l.GREEN/ black factory disarm. I assume that I want to split the blue on the 3 pin harness, and do the same. Isolate each split with diodes. One going to the actuator for locking and the other going back to l. GREEN/ black disarm? Is this correct? One of the things I'm unclear on is splitting the green wire on the 3 pin harness. Do I disconnect it entirely when I split it, or am I simply creating the split and leaving the the wire intact? Also what size diodes do I want to use? The 451 came with a collection of different resistance. Lastly, what am I doing with the 5 wires listed above? I know this is alot of information and that I'm in over my head, but my local Clifford dealer went out of business and no installers will do the install for liability reasons. Thanks in advance for anyone that can help me out with this

Green from plug to factory arm, blue on plug to disarm.  Diode if neccessary on wires from join  with band sides towards alarm, 1N4004 diodes would be adequate. Violet and Violet/ black via 7.5amp fuse (each motor needs about 5amp, as you are only adding one motor allow 7.5). WHITE/ black and BROWN / black to ground, green /black to green on motor and blue /black to blue on motor if you are going to "pull down" to lock. Resistors are not needed.  N.B. Some motors have red and blue wiring in this case, GREEN/ black to blue and blue/black to red. To be honest you are either not reading the instructions and you should give this job to someone who knows what they are doing, the give away being your stupid questions about the diodes and resistors and your lack of wiring knowledge re the 451 esp when it comes with complete and lucid instructions which I believe are also embossed on the casing. Just wait till you try and mount the motor! I'll give you a clue:- If its a later shape with the lock release low down in the door, this will be a cable not rod release and you will have to mount the motor as close to the pull  as possible where the sleeving finishes

Thanks for the reply. When I was buying the alarm on Ebay my local Clifford dealer was going to do the install. In the 2 weeks it took for the auction to end and for me to get the alarm in the mail....that shop went out of business. For liability reasons no installers will touch a used alarm install that they aren't a certified dealer for. And you are right, I have zero experience with alarm installs, relays, diodes, etc. I guess we all have to start somewhere. I've got the motor mounted in what I think is a good spot, but having no experience with actuators...I'll find out once I get the wiring done correctly. I have a rod that runs from the inner door handle. It's been a little while since I looked at it, but I believe there is another rod that connects to the door release mechanism. If it comes down to it I can buy a JDM driver side door lock mechanism and not use the actuator at all.

Sorry for having a go but you passed the "am I willing to listen and learn" test!   If your RX is the earlier squarer shape and it has a rod mech for the door lock rather than cable you wil be OK, please feel free to ask any other questions.

No worries about having a go, I'd really prefer to learn how to do this myself rather than pay someone...that way when something goes wrong with it I know where to look and don't need to pay someone a second time. I've got most everything in place. Siren mounted and wired in and grounded, constant with a fuse run from the battery, etc. Gonna go grab some lunch and some parts and hopefully finish the rest of it today.

Thanks for the help howie, I got the alarm basics installed and working. I lost one of the diodes so I've only got it setup to unlock my doors when I disarm...for now. Next free time I get I'll pick up another diode and the the doors locking when armed. I still need to wire in my parking lights, dome light, and ignition...but they aren't that important on my list of things to do. I'm not going to worry about the starter kill as my factory alarm has a starter kill. One modification I'm making is that my factory alarm has a "security" light that I'm going to wire that rather than use the Clifford light. I like keeping as clean an interior as possible.

Pleasure to help someone who's prepared to listen.