alarm/rs 2005 toyota camry le

I have a 4 cylinder  2005 Toyota Camry LE, no Toyota VIP alarm (as far as I know), no transponder key set, but it does seem to have some sort of dealership installed alarm which is interfaced with the stock keyless entry remote. This current alarm connects in-line with the ignition harness. I'm installing a marksman M11a.

I searched the forum and see these questions have been before, but I'm not totally clear on the answers.

(1) The alarm I'm installing has (-) lock & unlock trigger output. Can I connect those leads as follows? (or is the 5-wire relay set required?)

(-) unlock from alarm ==> blue DKP wire

(-) lock from alarm ==> blue / YELLOW DKP wire

(2) How should I connect the 2nd starter? I assume jumpering a wire over to it is not the way to do it, otherwise Toyota would have it that way from the factory. So, should I use a relay switched from the BLACK/ white (+) wire (starter) to power the 2nd ignition?

(3) Can I use the dome supervision wire from the ignition key cylinder as my door trigger?

(4) Keysense wire: For the car to start, should I connect a lead from the alarm that is grounded while when disarmed?

Any and all assistance will be greatly appreciated! Thanks a lot.

1. Power Lock blue / YELLOW - DKP or bottom of fusebox, 20 pin plg Power Unlock blue (double pulse) - DKP or BECU, top plug, pin 22 So yes, you can connect those wires directly 2. You have a 2nd starter and a 2nd ignition. Most remote start satellites have a 2nd igntion/flex wire so use that for the 2nd ignition. As for the starter, get a SPDT 40 amp relay and connect as follows: Pole 85: Fused 12v constant (from always constant source) Pole 86: Remote start Status Output (typically a 200mA ground) Pole 87: Fused 12v Constant (Could use jumper from 85) Pole 87a: Not used, cap off. Pole 30: Connect to 2nd starter wire. 3. You could but I wouldnt recommend it, many issues can arise. 4. The car will start regardless of this wire, it just boils down to do you want it to start with or without setting off factory alarm. Technically, you should connect this to the same RS Status Output wire via a relay as such: Pole 85: Fused 12v constant (from always constant source) Pole 86: Remote start Status Output (typically a 200mA ground) Pole 87: Keysense wire Pole 87a: Not used, cap off. Pole 30: Ground to chassis

I believe that there is a remote start status wire on this alarm -- manual lists this wire as providing 200 mA (-) output for 4 seconds before remote start initiates and continuously throughout the time it's running. Is this what you are referring to? Is there a reason why on #3 I cannot just use a ground to the frame and supply 87a --> 2nd starter? Also, is there a reason I cannot just put the status wire directly to the keysense wire? Thanks a lot!

that would be the one. you will end up using that wire to trigger the keysense or disarm wire and to run a bypass kit. make sure you use diodes to prevent backfeed.

1: Yes, that's right for the doorlocks. Just straight connections, no relays required. 2. just like plhame (and you yourself) says, it'll work fine if you just jump the two starter wires together, but of course it's not the best idea, and it's not how Toyota intended the car to be. Besides the heavy-gauge positive starter output, does your unit have a second, negative-trigger starter output? The easiest would be if you have a second starter output, just use that to trigger a relay, and then the relay will power the car's second starter wire. If all you have is that one starter output, you could use two relays like this: 87 (on both relays): fused constant power 85 (on both relays): ground 86 (on both relays): heavy starter output from remote starter 87a (on both relays): no connection 30 on relay 1: Starter 1 on the car 30 on relay 2: Starter 2 on the car 3. That small GREEN/ red domelight wire at the key cylinder makes a fine door trigger. However, it has a small delay, and won't turn off until maybe 1/2 second after the car's doors are locked. Some alarms will falsely "report" this as you forgetting the car's door open, usually with extra (and annoying) chirps. Some alarms are smartly designed to have this feature turned off or to add an extra delay time, and some aren't. 4. The keysense wire is only needed on Camrys with the factory-installed (XLE only) or dealer-installed (VIP) alarm. Yes, you could still connect that output directly to the car's keysense wire (no relay required). It wouldn't hurt, but it wouldn't serve any purpose either. P.S. You did mention there's a dealer-installed alarm in there that works off the factory remotes, right? Do you plan on leaving it in, or removing it? If you want to leave it in, there are two concerns: A. Does the alarm sound when the car's ignition is turned on? Sit in the car, arm the alarm, and turn on the ignition. If the alarm sounds, you'll need to use a relay to interrupt the alarm's ignition wire, so it doesn't "see" that the car's been turned on by the remote starter. B. If the alarm has a shock sensor, you can use more relay(s) to interrupt the sensor from being triggered by the vibrating engine, or just turn the sensor way down.

After tonight, I plan to leave the factory/dealer alarm installed as it doesn't appear it will interfere. The factory alarm plugs in-line with the ignition harness, so upon disconnecting that and re-connecting the original harness, the starter-kill feature of the factory/dealer alarm seems bypassed. Also, when I disconnected the 2-wire harness which has the lead for the keysense wire, the car also seemed to start just fine with and without the alarm armed. That said, I guess I'll just leave the keysense wire alone. I'll work on the 2nd starter lead in the morning and see how that works out. As for using the dome light lead from the key cylinder, it seems to be working OK so far, but I do have a concern. The door ajar warning light stays lit (very, very dimly) while the car is off and all doors are shut, but otherwise works just fine. Is the alarm possibly putting out a weak ground signal to that GREEN/ red dome light lead which is causing it to remain partially lit at all times? If so, should I use a diode to prevent backfeed from the alarm to the dome light wire? Or would this cause a problem? Thanks a lot for all of the assistance everyone!

Hmm, yes, that is weird about the door ajar light. It's possible that like you say, the alarm is putting out a weak ground, turning on the light.........but you're connected to the domelight, not the door-ajar circuit. (You might notice that the domelight has a delay, but the ajar light doesn't, they're on a separate circuit.) If memory serves, the door ajar light wire is RED / black, at the back of the instrument cluster (very easy to remove), and it's also available (but very hard to connect to) at a plug coming out the top-left side of the fuse box. Anyway, yes, putting a diode between the car's GREEN/ red domelight/key cylinder wire and the alarm is a good idea, and it wouldn't hurt anything.

Twice we had Camrys towed in to the dealer for no start issues. Both times it ended up being the AM2 fuse blown in the car not allowing the shift lock to disengage. The problem on both cars was the same, the installer tied the two starter wires together instead of using a relay. We had an installer work for us a short time who did these cars. After adding a second starter relay i never saw either car again...Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

Thanks for the advice on the 2nd starter. Strange anomaly though: I've got the 2nd starter relay isolated. The remote start seems to work just fine. However, when the key is put into the ignition, turned to the "on" position, and I put it in gear, the car turns off. Of course, there's no issue when the remote start is not engaged and the key is used. Any idea what could be the issue? It seems doubtful to me, but could the factory alarm somehow be causing problems? If so, what can I do about it? Thanks!