Starter Interrupt Not Working

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pilot_chris

Member - Posts: 45

Joined: March 06, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: March 08, 2003 at 11:05 PM / IP Logged

I just finished installing my DEI Rattler 250 car alarm on my 95 Cavalier and everything works fine but I've noticed that even if the alarm is triggered, you can still start the engine. In other words, the starter interrupt is not fuctioning. I have the starter interrupt breaking the connection on my starter relay so I know it could stop it from starting but doesn't. Does anyone have any idea why this would be? Thanks.

95 Cavalier 2.2L

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JL 500/1 for RF Punch HX2 500 watt RMS subs

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floaterr

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Joined: December 07, 2002

Location: United States

Posted: March 09, 2003 at 9:11 AM / IP Logged

The 2 common ways to install a starter kill are as follows:

1)Tie pin's 86 and 30 together on the relay then run that to the yellow starter wire (after cutting) going back up to the steering wheel. Connect 87a to the other yellow wire (towards the floor board). Then take and connect the ORANGE wire from the alarm to pin 85. In this config the relay -only- flips when someone tried to start the truck and the alarm is armed. So 99.9% of the time the relay does nothing.

2) See https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page2.asp

In this setup the replay flips everytime the alarm is armed and stays energized until the alarm is disarmed. Also they flipped 30 and 87a around compared tomy above example. If you wire like my worded example #1 but try to use this diagram for referense, make sure to connect 87a and 86 together instead of 30 & 86 (otherwise starter will crank no matter what the alarm is set at)

This might be what you did.

Good Luck!

the12volt

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Joined: March 07, 2002

Location: Louisiana, United States

Posted: March 09, 2003 at 9:43 AM / IP Logged

floaterr, the starter interrupt you're referring to here is only energized when the ignition is on and the alarm is armed, not for as long as the alarm is armed. Using the key side of the starter lead to energize the coil of the relay will not always fully prevent the vehicle side of the starter lead from seeing 12V+ and therefore should not be used. The ignition lead will always energize the coil of the relay before you attempt to start the vehicle with the key and is the preferRED / recommended method.

pilot_chris, please post the leads you have going to each terminal of your starter interrupt relay. If you are using a normally closed setup, it sounds like you do not have 12V+ on one side of the coil for it to energize during the start cycle if you do have a negative output from your alarm connected to the other side of the coil. Let us know.

Starter Interrupt Not Working -- posted image.

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floaterr

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Joined: December 07, 2002

Location: United States

Posted: March 09, 2003 at 9:45 AM / IP Logged

My bad... Didn't look at the diagram as close as I should have..

pilot_chris

Member - Posts: 45

Joined: March 06, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: March 09, 2003 at 1:53 PM / IP Logged

I'm not using any special relays or anything. On my Cavalier, I could not (after using a multimeter to test nearly every wire under the dash for an active 12 V current during Start) locate the yellow starter wire. So, I ran the starter kill wires (two that connect directly to the control module - one there and one back) directly out to the starter and spliced them in on the starter relay wire (not the acutal current line - I know that would have probaby fried my alarm module). Every aspect of the alarm is working great so I doubt I could've damaged just the starter kill funcion on the alarm. Thanks for your help guys - any more suggestions would be great.

95 Cavalier 2.2L

High Output Alternator

Rockford 1 Farad Punch Capacitor

JL 500/1 for RF Punch HX2 500 watt RMS subs

MTX 4244 4 channel for Polk & Pioneer door and rear deck speakers

the12volt

Administrator - Posts: 3,955

Joined: March 07, 2002

Location: Louisiana, United States

Posted: March 09, 2003 at 2:19 PM / IP Logged

You said you spliced these two wires into a starter relay wire on the starter. Did you cut this wire and connect each lead from your alarm to each side of this wire respectively or just tap both of them into this one wire? When you test these two leads from your alarm with your meter, does one or both of them show 12V+ during start with the alarm armed? What do each of them show with the alarm disarmed during start?

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the12volt

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Joined: March 07, 2002

Location: Louisiana, United States

Posted: March 09, 2003 at 2:30 PM / IP Logged

One other thought, where did you connect the ignition lead for your alarm and does it show 12V+ while the key is in the run position and during start? If not, this will will always allow the vehicle to start regardless of which wire you interrupt with the two leads from your alarm.

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pilot_chris

Member - Posts: 45

Joined: March 06, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: March 09, 2003 at 2:37 PM / IP Logged

The wire the ignition alarm wire is attached to does show 12 volt during start and the alarm is triggered by turning the key so I know that part is ok. As to your previous question, the starter kill wire is broken and the power must flow through the alarm module for the car to start. Sorry to be unclear there - I actually didn't splice into the starter wire - I cut it in half and put the alarm in the middle. I have not tested the alarm wires for voltage as of yet but will do that soon and post the results. Thanks.

95 Cavalier 2.2L

High Output Alternator

Rockford 1 Farad Punch Capacitor

JL 500/1 for RF Punch HX2 500 watt RMS subs

MTX 4244 4 channel for Polk & Pioneer door and rear deck speakers

pilot_chris

Member - Posts: 45

Joined: March 06, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: March 10, 2003 at 3:31 PM / IP Logged

Problem solved. I broke down and took off the dash and most of the steering column and was eventually able to track down ingition wire (one of MANY yellow wires in there). So the starter interrupt is working great now. Thank you all for your help.

95 Cavalier 2.2L

High Output Alternator

Rockford 1 Farad Punch Capacitor

JL 500/1 for RF Punch HX2 500 watt RMS subs

MTX 4244 4 channel for Polk & Pioneer door and rear deck speakers

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Starter Interrupt Not Working

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