how to determine if dei 800esp is dead?

Sirs,

I am writing with a question about the DEI 800ESP (Viper).  I installed one in a custom vehicle about 7 years ago.  For the installation, I was using a 12Volt pick up for power off of a bus bar connecting two batteries in series to make 24volts.  The unit only saw 12 volts becuase of this wiring configuration.  The batteries were Concorde aircraft batteries.  To make the connectios, I had the following wiring scheme:

a)  Red(Constant Power) = 12Volt Source (Always On)

b) Yellow(12Volt Ignition) = 12Volt Source (Always On) - Just note this for now, as this may be the problem.

c) Brown(Siren) = Siren

d) RED / White(Trunk Relay) = Power Door Lock Cylinder from a Buick (used to acctuate a lever when you activate this relay)

e) Black(Ground) = Ground

f) Shock Sensor = Plugs into the unit

None of the other features on this were used.  No LED and No Valet/Program switch.

About six years ago, the unit simply stopped working and shortly there after I put the car in storage.  Now that it is out of storage, I am trying to figure out what is wrong.  I replaced both Concorde batteries, and the unit appears to have power.  The reason I know this is becuase the shock sensor has an LED in it that activates when I tap on it.  However, when I try to activate the alarm, the horn does not chirp.  Today I added an LED and the Valet/Program switch, but these also do not seem to have any effect.

With all that, is there anyway that I can test if the unit is dead?  Do you think that the constant power to the 12V Ingintion wire has caused the unit to fail?  Has anyone else seen something like this happen?  Any other ideas would be appriciated.

Thanks,

joe

Ok,

I took the advice of you guys, and need to make a few corrections to my original wiring diagram.

b) Yellow(12Volt Ignition) = No Connection

d) RED / White(Trunk Relay) = 12+Volt Input for trunck release relay

g) RED / White(Trunk Relay) = 12+Volt Output for trunck release relay connected to the door lock linear motor.

With that said, I tried to press the remote many times with no luck.  I sat down an read how to re-program the remote.  I was able to enter valet mode with the valet switch (By connecting the green door wire and the 12V ignition ACC).  I was also able to enter the programming menu with the valet switch.  In both cases, when when it was time to press the remote to either learn the function or to change the menu option, the reciever would not respond.

As a result, does that sound like a remote problem?  Would buying a new remote fix this problem, or should I just buy a new unit?  Is it possible that the tx circuit of the remote is bad, or more likely that the rx circuit of the reciever is bad?

Thanks,

joe