starter kill relay

Hey all.

Well, I just got done searching for some info but didnt find an answer to MY question.  I searched "starter kill relay" and the majority of info that posted (30), were in conjuction with an alarm system.  Frankly this is what I am trying to accomplish:

I would like to use a Normally Open relay to create a starter kill switch.  I would like to do so using the following schematics:

• 86 - (12v+ Ingnition)
• 87 - (From Ignition Switch)
• 30 - (To Starter Motor)
• 85 - (Power Window (+) wire)

I'm not sure what to do with the 85 connection on the relay.  On the relay guide at  https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page2.asp, it says to alarm(-).  I dont have an alarm so I would like to use another "accessory" to activate the relay and thus be able to start the car.

If my plan stinks, can someone please provide a more efficient design?  I chose the normally  open relay so that it is not dependent on battery power after the car is turned off.

Thanks,

Scott

Just use a momentary push switch as your "starter button"  from 85 via the switch to ground. To play safe I would run a permanent 30amp fused lead to 87, all else stays the same. Incidentally what you call the "power window wire" is an alarm's "armed output" which goes to ground when the alarm is on. If you were really paranoid, you could substitute a key switch with momentary action for the push button but without an alarm it would takes someone like me about 10secs to by-pass it.

Thanks for the reply howie.  The reason why I put the "power window" switch is that I wanted it to be the swtich to start the car.  Here's how it would go:  Get in car, put key in ignition, turn key, car does not start up.  Put key in ACC postion, hold "window up" switch, turn key and car starts right up.

Is that possible using a normally open relay?  Also, depending where I splice my ignition/starter wire, would it still be easy to bypass?

Thanks,

Scott

Actually it's a great idea except for two reasons. First, once you go to starter position all circuits are  cut short of ignition and starter to save your battery secondly ( and check this on your car) nearly all window leads are neg at rest so the way you have it wired right now, the starter will cut in automatically as soon as you go to the ignition position AND STAY LATCHED ON UNLESS YOU OPEN THAT WINDOW, AS SOON AS YOU RELEASE THE BUTTON, STARTER MOTOR WILL CUT IN. if you ground 85,  feed 86 from window lift and supply 87 from original starter feed from switch this will work, you have to have the key turned over in the starter position and check to see your windows still work for this method to work also we are talking window motor wire, make sure it's not DATA at the switch. What car is it?

Hhhmm..  That sounds pretty good.  I have a 1995 Honda Accord Sedan.  So the new diagram I guess would look like this:

• 86 - Window Lift
• 87 - (From Ignition Switch)
• 30 - (To Starter Motor)
• 85 - Ground

If the window leads are negative, how can I connect it to 86?  Does the window lead provide 12+ when engaged?

Thanks,

Scott

Yes but check, 1) That it goes live when you activate switch and 2) The switch circuit stays live when you turn the key to the starter position.