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car alarm/remote start trouble shooting


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bigbodychevy 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: September 14, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 02, 2008 at 7:29 PM / IP Logged  

I have a CA 610 (code alarm). I installed this remote start alarm with the help of a friend over 2 years ago. Worked like a champ untill recently. I also added some accuaters since its in a car that did not have power locks at the time of the initial install. The car is a 1992 Chevy Lumina Euro (sedan).

The problem atm is the running Tail lights will not come on except for the pulse flash from arming/disarming the alarm. I can not continue to drive with no Tail lights this time of year since I drive to work when its still dark outside. Where and how should I test to find the short. Sorry for my ignorance, I am very new to alarms/remote starts. This was my 1 and only install and about 60% of it was done by a friend who is no longer around. I have installed Countless Stereo systems and work in the IT field. I have all the tools needed to do the job but am stuck finding the problem.

My first thought was a bad relay. I replaced both Relays in the system. Still as soon as I turn on the running lights I blow a fuse and loose all interior and tail lights, But if I arm/disarm the alarm those lights do pulse as normal. What is a good place to start and how exactly do i use the voltage meter to find the short?

attached below is the wiring diagram of the car and a link to the alarm manual.

http://webappshttp.voxdmz.audiovox.com:1025/manuals/installation/CA610Inst_%20revD_122105.pdf

Constant 12V+Red Ignition Switch Harness 
StarterYellow Ignition Switch Harness 
IgnitionPink Ignition Switch Harness 
Ignition 2Dark Blue/White Ignition Switch Harness 
AccessoryOrange Ignition Switch Harness 
TachWhite Or PURPLE / White (-) At Coil or Multi Coil Pack 
Brake SwitchWhite Brake Switch 
Trunk ReleaseBlack Switch 
Trunk Pinn/a HAS MERCURY Switch 
Parking LightsBrown Light Switch 
Head LampYellow Light Switch 
Hood Pinn/a  
Door TriggerWhite (-) Driver's Pin Switch 
Door LockLight Blue Driver's Kick Panel 
Door UnlockBlack Positive Trigger 
Horn WireBlack (-) Steering Column 
Windows UpLF=Brown, RF=Blue/White, 
Windows DownLF=Dark Blue, RF=Tan 

Please help! Thanks in advance for ignoring my newbness.

i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,670
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: November 02, 2008 at 7:45 PM / IP Logged  
Did you recently install a radio in the vehicle?   
blanx218 
Silver - Posts: 654
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 23, 2008
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 02, 2008 at 8:00 PM / IP Logged  
you can also narrow down your problem by disconnecting the parking light wire of the remote start from the car wire. if you still blow a fuse the problem doesnt lie in the remote start. also make sure you dont have any incorrect bulbs. you can blow a fuse that way too.
ckeeler 
Gold - Posts: 1,461
Gold spacespace
Joined: June 20, 2008
Location: New Mexico, United States
Posted: November 03, 2008 at 11:24 AM / IP Logged  
the problem has nothing to do with the park light circuit on your remote start or the installation as it works when the unit arms/disarms. you have obviously tied into the system AFTER the fuse box. thus the reason they still flash with the remote start even with a blown fuse in the fuse box. that also tells you that nothing after the fuse box is shorted. you have a short inside the headlight switch. is your headlight switch the square one with a seperate button for headlights and parklights and has a slider off to the side for dimming the dash lights?
bigbodychevy 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: September 14, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 03, 2008 at 12:06 PM / IP Logged  

Yes Ckeeler it is as you described. 1 square button for parking lights 1 square for head lights, and a slider to set how bright the dash lights are.

When the fuse blows the dash lights also go out. Everything works fine till I turn on the parking lights, As soon as I hit that button the fuse blows.

So should I remove this and trace that wire back to see where its spliced into the brain at? Is my short on this wire? Can I test it with my voltage meter to prove the short? I am going to stop on the way home to buy a headlight bulb to try the suggestion up above.

Thanks alot for helping me here guys, I really gotta stop car pooling with the wife. I miss my Alpine SWX 1243D and the back massage on the ride home its so relaxing ;-P

ckeeler 
Gold - Posts: 1,461
Gold spacespace
Joined: June 20, 2008
Location: New Mexico, United States
Posted: November 03, 2008 at 12:38 PM / IP Logged  
no, you have to change that switch. its bad. it has an internal short. thats all your problem is and all you need to do is replace the switch
bigbodychevy 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: September 14, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 03, 2008 at 12:46 PM / IP Logged  

have you seen this before, whats the best way to get a new one, and what is the part name so when i call a junk yard I dont sound like a dumb @$$?

Thanks alot.

ckeeler 
Gold - Posts: 1,461
Gold spacespace
Joined: June 20, 2008
Location: New Mexico, United States
Posted: November 03, 2008 at 12:50 PM / IP Logged  

its just called a headlight switch assy. it will be the headlight button/parklight button/slider all in one unit, just like you have now. the CARQUEST part number for a new one is DS655. looks like this

car alarm/remote start trouble shooting -- posted image.

bigbodychevy 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: September 14, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 03, 2008 at 1:02 PM / IP Logged  
OUCH Carquest wants $330 for one new, and Autozone wants $144 for one new. Junk yard here I come.
bigbodychevy 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: September 14, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 03, 2008 at 1:16 PM / IP Logged  

Found one on ebay for 22 shipped. Now i play the waiting game.

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