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2006 pontiac g6 gtp clutch wire


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madgamer 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: December 08, 2005
Posted: November 07, 2008 at 1:07 PM / IP Logged  

Hey guys, I just spent the last 2 hrs trying to find a wiring diagram for my wife's car that lists the clutch wire so I can finish up installing her new Compustar P2WFMAS. Her car is a 2006 Pontiac G6 GTP, 3.9L, 6 speed manual.

Anyone have a clue at which wire it is? I'm almost certain I'll be able to find it at the BCM, but would like to avoid pinning 200 wires to find it.

Thanks for your help!

chriswallace187 
Gold - Posts: 1,661
Gold spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 08, 2008 at 11:24 AM / IP Logged  
Isn't there a wire on the clutch switch itself? Probably a simple ground or 12V switched.
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madgamer 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: December 08, 2005
Posted: November 08, 2008 at 10:37 PM / IP Logged  

Yes, there is a 3 wire switch, but in the most ungodly location... and that's exactly what I ended up doing. it was a royal pain in the but since the switch is located very high on the firewall, but I traced it back to a disconnect near the front left of the dash and tapped into it there. its a 3 wire system: +, gnd and out.

madgamer 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: December 08, 2005
Posted: November 08, 2008 at 11:10 PM / IP Logged  

Ok, so now with the whole clutch thing sorted out, I seem to have a new dillema...

Remote starting does not seem to work. Everything else is working as it should including killing the engine with the remote (if I trick it into starting with the key... See below for more details).

Unit is a Compustar P2W900FMAS loaded with version 28 firmware and using the iDatalink multi bypass loaded with GM2 firmware from mid july. All wires are connected properly and have been verified several times. When attempting remote starting, everything turns on as it should, but no cranking occurs. I have verified that the accessory wire does drop out to 0v as it should, and the clutch receives its low pulse from the 2nd starter o/p of the RS. But still no crack... :-(  One weird thing I did notice though is that while attempting a remote start, the accessory line does go low, but the radio and power windows still function fine, where as when starting with the key, all accessories stop functioning while the engine is cranking (no radio, power windows, etc). Like I said, I find this quite odd as the accessory line does meter 0v at the ignition switch... Any ideas?

Here's some detailed info:

ignition and accessory wires from bypass and RS connected at BCM;
RS "rearm" o/p connected to driver door pin for RAP shutdown;
RS tach wire connected to bypass tach o/p (until I update the RS brain and can use idatalink 2-way mode);
RS door status connected to bypass door status o/p;
RS connected to bypass by rs232 (door locks/trunk/panic work just fine);
bypass light flashes green like its supposed to (according to the manual) during rs attempts and sometimes flashes when started with the key (is this wrong??).

Hope someone can help me out with this one as I'm about at my whits end with this particular install! Thanks in advance.

madgamer 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: December 08, 2005
Posted: November 09, 2008 at 10:38 PM / IP Logged  
Well, problem solved... Did a factory reset on the bypass module (ADS-DLSL) and reprogrammed from scratch. Problem solved. I must have been too slow when I went through the programming cycle initially. Anyways, all works perfect now.

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