2008 dodge durango

this car is the easiest car in the world to do...even easier than a chevy trailblazer...i used a compustar with a blade AL, and all it took a 7 whole wires to do the whole entire car.... i wish every car would take a whole 15 minutes to do. 12 v constant at fuse box Ground next to fuse box 12v parking lights in fuse box ignition, mux, canh, canl, at sentry key harness..and thats it... now if i could only get an account at a dodge dealer LOL

no parking lights :( LOL

Have the vehicle parking lights set to AUTO and you don't even have to wire up the parking lights.Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Did you do a remote start? If so I would get rid of your 12v at the fuse box. I don't think its rated to handle the amperage, I can't remember. Run a 10ga kit from your battery. Otherwise if you get a hard crank you could possibly pop a fuse under the hood, which sometimes can be expensive, or just inconvenient.

yimke, You've reminded me of an argument I had years ago with a different location's shop manager when I worked at Circuit City. This was probably in 2003, on a then late-model Chrysler minivan, and they refused to install a customer's remote start unless he purchased an 8-gauge amp install kit for an additional $60. Their rationale? The remote start was "fused at 60 amps, so it could easily draw that much current". This is wrong, because of a lack of basic understanding of how a low-current ignition switch works. In the case of late-model Chrysler products, the wires either activate relays themselves or (in the case of the (-) multiplex resistance wires) send a signal to the Body Control Module, which then activates relays. None of the high current circuits on the vehicle, such as the starter, fuel pump, fuel injectors, ignition module, electronic transmission controls, heater blower, radio, etc. receive power through the ignition switch directly. Power from those circuits goes from the battery through the relays mentioned above - so there's no possibility that a hard crank is going to draw any more current through the ignition switch wires than it takes to activate the starter relay(about 0.2 amps). If that were possible, Chrysler would certainly fuse the ignition switch's power supply at more than the 7.5 or 10 amps they do in practice. It's not at all a bad idea to replace the double 30A fuses to the remote start with a single 10A or double 5A. Using a 10 gauge or 8 gauge amplifier kit, though, is a waste of good wire and of your customer's money.C Renner's Auto Electronix

My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Velocity Motors wrote: Have the vehicle parking lights set to AUTO and you don't even have to wire up the parking lights.

still wouldnt be any confirmation that it recieved the signal. does anyone know how much those to pieces cost?

chriswallace187 wrote: yimke, You've reminded me of an argument I had years ago with a different location's shop manager when I worked at Circuit City. This was probably in 2003, on a then late-model Chrysler minivan, and they refused to install a customer's remote start unless he purchased an 8-gauge amp install kit for an additional $60. Their rationale? The remote start was "fused at 60 amps, so it could easily draw that much current". This is wrong, because of a lack of basic understanding of how a low-current ignition switch works. In the case of late-model Chrysler products, the wires either activate relays themselves or (in the case of the (-) multiplex resistance wires) send a signal to the Body Control Module, which then activates relays. None of the high current circuits on the vehicle, such as the starter, fuel pump, fuel injectors, ignition module, electronic transmission controls, heater blower, radio, etc. receive power through the ignition switch directly. Power from those circuits goes from the battery through the relays mentioned above - so there's no possibility that a hard crank is going to draw any more current through the ignition switch wires than it takes to activate the starter relay(about 0.2 amps). If that were possible, Chrysler would certainly fuse the ignition switch's power supply at more than the 7.5 or 10 amps they do in practice. It's not at all a bad idea to replace the double 30A fuses to the remote start with a single 10A or double 5A. Using a 10 gauge or 8 gauge amplifier kit, though, is a waste of good wire and of your customer's money.

i combined the 2 12v wires before the fuse and put in a 10 amp fuse :)also fused the ignition at 5amps via the bypass instructions

metz35 wrote: still wouldnt be any confirmation that it recieved the signal. /QUOTE] With the iDatalink peices when you lock and unlock the vehicle it will flash the parking lights for you even if you don't have them hooked up on the remote start. It's done through CANBUS, but the remote start confirmation will not confirm it unless the parking lights are hooked up but in most cases the headlights will turn on at dusk and will honk the horn when it successfully starts ( CANBUS control again ). [QUOTE=metz35]does anyone know how much those to pieces cost?

Go to ifar.caand you can purchase the module there online or from any Fortin authorized dealer. There's also the CHR-HRN1 and CHR-HRN2 harnesses that allow for plug and play installation ... no soldering required. iDatalink also has these available for their units as well.

Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA