529t controlling sunroof slow

How long is the run from where you cut the 2 wires and the 529t?  What size wire did you use for that run?

You shouldn't need anything like that if I'm correct.  Turn your ignition on and have access to the wires at the rear of the switch. With the roof either in the open or tilt positions, grounding (through a DMM or decent e.g. Snap-On test light with an incandescent bulb) the lead coloured black should close the roof from either position. Now find the 2 x roof relays probably in the upper driver's kick panel. Ascertain which one closes the roof, find a wire which goes live on ignition, which goes to that relay.  I believe it's GREEN/ YELLOW.  Cut it and join the input (relay) side to a 12v+ constant.  Now again with the roof slid open or tilted, and the ignition off this time, ground that wire. The roof should close from either position.  Leave the relay feed connected to that 12v+  constant and just use one of your aux outputs either set as pulse and hold the remote control fob button or set as timed and or to come on with arm automatically if you can, or take your GW armed wire, orange on DEI product and run it through a 528t timer relay.  Job done.  No there wil be no relay coil draw to flatten the battery.

Wow Howie. Where were you when I was having to figure out the sunroof on my 02 TL? It took me a long time to figure it out and I did it very similar to how you describe above (including the timer module). I even asked on the Insider forum where the best of the best are at, and no one there could help me. You are the man! Does the 89 Civic have a tilting sunroof? My 90 Integra didn't. Usually slow movement from the module means too small wire controlling the sunroof or poor ground on the module. I ran dedicated 8 awg power and ground wires directly to the battery for the 3 window modules in my car just to be sure I had a sufficient supply. For the output to the motors I used 12 awg speaker wire.

Yes that was what Mr. Idiot was pointing out on his post. I've been around this trade almost 40 years (36 actually) and many of these tricks you just stumble across. It also works for early Lex IS but there you need 2 x aux, one for slide and one for tilt. I never had a formal electronics education but l   could always follow circuit diagrammes and " visualise" what was happening. It always helps to remember what and where! If you can't, write it down.  As aprocedure, I prefer especially with remote start and high power accesories such as window and roof closers to power from the battery, or an adjacent fuse box constant power feed. 2nd choice would be the main internal fuse box, especially in the case of Hondas, where the ignition feed is "only" fused at 50amps. You're right, early CRX and some other Hondas had a slide only roof which came out over the roof. Don't laugh but when they first came out I didn't realise this and very carefully mounted a roof antenna for the phone right in the middle behind the motor. Thought I'd done a great job till we went to open the roof

Glad you got it figured out.