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06 grand cherokee rs


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blowndakrt 
Copper - Posts: 94
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 14, 2008
Location: Iowa, United States
Posted: November 20, 2009 at 11:50 PM / IP Logged  
Ok guys, I think I am over thinking this, so wanted to get some clarifcation.
 
I am installing a remote start in a 06 Jeep Grand Cherokee.  I am using the DLPKCHG2.
 
Since the bypass gives me the MUX wire, I used the starter output of the remote start to the MUX wire.  But the part that is confusing me is, since it does the start/accesory, do I not need to hook up accessory wire from the remote start?  Or does this still need to be connected to the car with the resistor?
 
 
Thanks
 
Shawn
blowndakrt 
Copper - Posts: 94
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 14, 2008
Location: Iowa, United States
Posted: November 21, 2009 at 8:38 PM / IP Logged  
Ok,  Here is where I am at.
 
After talking to a tech, he said I do not connect the accessory wire.  He also said to connect my starter output wire from the RS to the pink wire on the bypass.
 
This did not work.
 
I do have a starter wire on this Jeep. 
 
I am not getting a remote start.  It doesn't crank over or anything.  The door locks are working fine but no start.
 
I have tried to run a jumper from the starter output of the rs to the starter wire on the car and the pink wire.  Still nothing. 
 
The tech was telling me not to use the starter wire at all.  And the instructions on the bypass said to go to a violet/brown wire in pin 4 of the ignition harness.  Pin 4 on this car is an ORANGE / pink starter wire.  So the tech told me to go to pin 2 as that would be my MUX wire.  That wire is a solid purple wire. 
 
Any Input?
 
Thanks
 
Shawn
 
 
metz35 
Copper - Posts: 458
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2003
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 21, 2009 at 8:46 PM / IP Logged  
mux (PURPLE / brown) does accessory and 2nd start, hook up a normal ignition and a normal starter
blowndakrt 
Copper - Posts: 94
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 14, 2008
Location: Iowa, United States
Posted: November 21, 2009 at 11:37 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the info.  Wanted to make sure I was hooking it up properly to help solve some issues.
 
I did some switching around with some wiring and can get it to start.  It just dies after about 5 seconds.  I am getting a check engine light as well.  But not sure if that is because of so many attempts to start it without getting mux signal. 
 
 
I am assuming the bypass needs to be reprogrammed now since I have been unhooking and reconnecting things.
 
I just want to make sure I am correct on my connections.
 
I have the starter wire from the rs hooked up to the start wire (pink/orange pin 4 on ignition harness), and I also have the pink wire from the bypass jumped in that connection as well, as per the Xpresskit tech.
 
Ignition Output from rs hooked to ignition (pink/green pin 3 on ignition harness)
 
I do not have a violet/brown wire in the ignition harness.  In pin 1, there is a PURPLE / pink or possible PURPLE / red.  Pin 2 is a solid purple wire.  This is where I have the MUX wire connected to as per the Xpresskit tech.  This is one that has me stumped as to which is the correct one. 
 
On the Skim module, I have the WHITE/ orange pin 6 to the violet wire on the bypass.
 
Is the above wiring correct?  Is the pink wire on the bypass ok with being jumpered in with the start wire?
 
Also, what is the procedure for reprogramming the bypass?
 
I am hoping I can get this figured out tommorrow.  I haven't tried to start it with the key in the ignition yet.  Will try that tommorrow as well.  Otherwise I gotta wait til Monday to call the tech line again and have them confirm my connections.
 
Thanks
 
Shawn
blowndakrt 
Copper - Posts: 94
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 14, 2008
Location: Iowa, United States
Posted: November 22, 2009 at 10:32 AM / IP Logged  
Tested a few things this morning.
 
I found out the guy has 3 keys for the vehicle.  So I wanted to make sure the 2 I was using to program were correct.  Both start the vehicle just fine and it continues to stay running.
 
With bypass plugged in, key in ignition but not turned at all,  I get Damaged key when I try to remote start it.
 
With bypass completely unplugged, key in ignition but not turned at all, it will remote start but die after 5 seconds.
 
Shawn
chriswallace187 
Gold - Posts: 1,661
Gold spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 22, 2009 at 1:56 PM / IP Logged  
It's sounding like to me that you may have an improperly programmed tach wire(which would explain the dying after 5 seconds - immediately dying would indicate an immobilizer problem).
AFAIK there isn't a reset procedure for the transponder programming - but once I've gotten the confirmation tone from the car on any Bypasskit Chrysler piece, I've never had to worry about that, the problem's always been elsewhere.
Also, does your Jeep have a (+) starter wire, and did you connect the brown wire in the 2 pin harness to ground?
Last, I'm not sure if it's still a concern but there should be no resistors needed for your install.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
blowndakrt 
Copper - Posts: 94
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 14, 2008
Location: Iowa, United States
Posted: November 22, 2009 at 2:16 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the insight.
 
I did test the tach wire at the brain and I am getting .43 to .45 volts AC.  I thought that was low, so I stripped a small section of wire at the coil, and tested it again.  I wanted to make sure I wasn't getting a bad reading if the solder joint was bad.  The wire at the coil is in the .46 to .43 volts AC range.
 
The jeep does have a positive starter wire.  Its the pink/orange wire in pin 4 of the ignition harness.  The rs starter output is T'd into that wire.  The data wire on the bypass is t'd into pin 2 solid purple on the ignition harness (as per the Xpresskit Tech). 
 
The bypass instructions say to connect it to Pin 4 violet/brown, but I do not have a violet brown anywhere in the harness.  The brown wire in the 2 pin harness is not connected to anything.  I thought I was only to ground that wire if there was no positive starter wire.
 
Shawn
 
 
chriswallace187 
Gold - Posts: 1,661
Gold spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 22, 2009 at 4:32 PM / IP Logged  
What brand/model remote start is it, and where do you have the tach connected to?
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
blowndakrt 
Copper - Posts: 94
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 14, 2008
Location: Iowa, United States
Posted: November 22, 2009 at 5:45 PM / IP Logged  
chriswallace187 wrote:
What brand/model remote start is it, and where do you have the tach connected to?
 
It a Zenesis ZN502A.  That tach wire is connected to driver's side coil closest to the front of the car.  I went with the wire that is different colors for each coil.  But can't remember the wire color off the top of my head.  Looked at too many wires today.  LOL.  I tried to switch it to voltage sense just to see if it was tach that was causing the issue, but it won't let me get into the programming mode.
 
From the start, the remote start was acting weird.  I turned off the passive arming, and it still locks the doors after 25 seconds after you open and close the door.  Thought maybe I had it backwards, but in passive arming, it does the same thing.  So thought maybe that was just how this remote start was.  This is my first time using this brand.  A customer actually requested it when he seen it in the catalog.
 
I don't know if it something I am doing wrong, or if this remote start just doesn't like me.
 
But either way, I had to drop the car off to the customer tonight so he could have it for work tomorrow.  I unplugged the bypass completely, and disconnected the main power harness going to the brain.  As soon as I pulled the main harness, I noticed a burning smell and inbetween the little gaps around the plugs, I seen it was glowing and smoking inside the brain.  I quickly pulled all the wires still connected to it and got it out of the jeep before it stunk up the whole interior.
 
Not sure what would be left to smoke it with the main harness disconnected.  No bare wires, nothing touching anything.  I went through and checked all the wires leading to it, pulled the loom off and there are no nics in any of the wires.
 
So looks like I will be calling their tech dept tomorrow to figure out what could have happened.
 
Thanks for all that suggest stuff to try.  Once I get a new unit for this customer, I hope I won't be asking the same questions over again.  LOL.
 
Shawn
 
So maybe I got a unit that was built on a Friday at closing time. 

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