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5601 w xk01 in 06 tundra


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highlevel 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: February 22, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: December 03, 2009 at 1:17 AM / IP Logged  
Hello,
This is my first post. I want to say Thank You!! to all of you who participate here. This forum is great and very informative.
I have done a lot of reading and searching. I apologize if this has been asked and answered.
I have a 2006 Toyota Tundra Double Cab. The truck has RKE but does not have an alarm (supposedly). I don't really understand this because when the panic button gets pushed the horn and the parking lights light up. It seems like everything is there for a factory alarm but the dealership says no. OK.
FYI this is a DYI. My reasons for installing myself are #1 because I am pretty anal about how things get installed and #2 there was a previous alarm in the vehicle that someone removed. They left behind wiring that was shorting out in the door "loom" when opening and closing the door and T-Taps for every connection. Shortcuts cost money... Do it right the first time.
I am installing the Viper 5601 with the XK01 module. The XK01 has been flashed with TOYDL. I will be installing some other sensors but wanted to get the main items going before moving on.
I have the alarm connected, that and the RS are operational but for some reason the doors don't trigger the alarm. I tried just simply opening them up and no go. The hood pin triggers the alarm and the on board shock sensor does as well. The door locks do work with the Viper remote and the factory key FOB.
My understanding was that the XK01 would handle the doors. Does this unit only lock and unlock the doors? Do I still need to connect door trigger wires directly to the vehicle from the 5601, or directly to the XK01?
Currently using the D2D interface between the two. Using the violet wire to connect to the vehicle data wire. Those are the only connections supposedly needed for the XK01.
I have not connected the dome supervision wire because it did not appear that I needed it. Same goes for the key sense wire. Could that be the problem?
Would I be better off tying into the existing system and doing the keyless upgrade?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. TIA.
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kgerry 
Platinum - Posts: 3,455
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: February 07, 2004
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posted: December 03, 2009 at 10:50 AM / IP Logged  

TOYDL is a door lock only firmware... you still need to wire in all your other analogue circuits... doorpin, etc

XK01 only handles the doors via data on GM vehicles

Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
highlevel 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: February 22, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: December 03, 2009 at 12:24 PM / IP Logged  
OK, thanks much for the reply! That gives me the information I need to finish up.
Will post back with update.
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highlevel 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: February 22, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: December 04, 2009 at 12:07 AM / IP Logged  
I read somewhere, I think in this forum, that someone used the dome supervision wire (from the vehicle) as the negative trigger for the alarm. Is this possible? Is it not a good idea? It seems others would be doing this all the time if it worked... just wondering about saving a little time. No problem soldering and placing diodes.
Also, I started experiencing a random problem. The dome light circuit in the truck has become random when unlocking. Sometimes the lights do not come on at all. Sometimes they stay on for the normal interval and other times they stay on for just a second or two. It seems like they are dimmer at times as well.
Any ideas?
Would I be best off connecting the dome supervision wire (from the 5601)? With a relay? If I do that would I compromise the XK01?
Also wondering if I should connect the XK01 W2W, rather than using the D2D. Would this make a difference?
It has been getting relatively cold at night... below freezing.
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tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: December 04, 2009 at 6:50 AM / IP Logged  
the d2d wire works, but isnt reliable. whatever hardwire connections you can make from the brain to the xk01, go for it. As far as connecting the door pin wire to the domelight, that will definitly work, just make sure you test the polarity on the wire. No need for relays. the only thing is im not sure about the 5601, but you might need to set a delay within programming to allow domelight supervision. since the domelights stay on for a period of time, the alarm might ignore that zone, so programming to allow 30seconds of ignore door triggers will do the trick.
highlevel 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: February 22, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: December 04, 2009 at 10:21 AM / IP Logged  
tedmond wrote:
the d2d wire works, but isnt reliable. whatever hardwire connections you can make from the brain to the xk01, go for it. As far as connecting the door pin wire to the domelight, that will definitly work, just make sure you test the polarity on the wire. No need for relays. the only thing is im not sure about the 5601, but you might need to set a delay within programming to allow domelight supervision. since the domelights stay on for a period of time, the alarm might ignore that zone, so programming to allow 30seconds of ignore door triggers will do the trick.
Thank you!
Well, if the domelight circuit triggers the wire to the brain, why would I need to set anything? Not sure I understand that. But will check it out. Makes me wonder why a lot of people don't do that rather than diodes and getting to all the door pin switch wires?
Are you saying that the xko1 hooked up D2D could be the cause of the domelight circuit inconsistency? I will do the W2W connections and see if that changes the behavior.
I was asking about the domelight wire (from the brain) with a relay because I thought maybe a direct connection to the brain rather than going through the xk01 might be better. Or, would that confuse the brain and/or xk01. Would the system then be seeing two signals for the domelight circuit? Just wondering how that would work if I W2W doesn't solve the problem.
Thanks again.
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highlevel 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: February 22, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: December 04, 2009 at 4:10 PM / IP Logged  
OK, I just connected the W2W on the xk01. I had the green and blue wires connected to the brain and RED / positive connected to a constant hot and the black wire to a constant ground. Just as is shown in the digram. I had removed the D2D wire. The locks did not cycle at all.
At the moment I am back to D2D, with the same problem the domelight is not consistently staying lit when I disarm. Any help would be appreciated.
Connected the green negative trigger wire to the negative dome light wire near my ignition light. That works for all doors. Is there a reason I should not leave this connected? Can this be easily defeated? Why would people choose to do the diodes etc... when this works so easily.
Just a newbie trying to figure this stuff out. Thanks.
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highlevel 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: February 22, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: December 04, 2009 at 11:14 PM / IP Logged  
Update.
Re-flashed the xk01. It now works W2W. Not sure if it helped the domelight inconsistency issue or not. Too late and cold to continue for tonight.
Still wondering about the negative door trigger on the truck domelight circuit. Would really love some input on that one. Thanks.
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highlevel 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: February 22, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: December 05, 2009 at 1:11 PM / IP Logged  
Update:
The W2W did not solve the domelight issue. I went out this morning to unlock the truck and the domelight stayed on for about 4 seconds. I cycled the arm and disarm and the next 3 times the domelight did not come on at all. I opened the door, then closed it. Then cycled arm and disarm again. This time it worked. So, is it just not seeing enough power or something like that. The data wire from the xk01 is confused? OK, well the wire wouldn't be but I am. :-)
Still would love any comments on using the domelight wire for negative door trigger. Although at this point I may be changing that because the xk01 does not seem to be handling that.
Yes, I like talking to myself. :-)
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highlevel 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: February 22, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: December 06, 2009 at 11:09 PM / IP Logged  
Update:
Finished it up today.
I was still puzzled about the domelight issue. I was going to do the diodes and tie in to all the door switch wires but it occurred to me, why not find the wire that signals the door light on the dash. I found the "door/ajar" wire and connected the negative door trigger to that wire. Having removed the negative door trigger wire from the domelight circuit apparently solved the issue with the domelight inconsistency. Seems to work fine now.
So, remote start, backup battery (for alarm), alarm w/ siren and horn honk (done with relay), glass break sensor, and closed loop sensor. The closed loop sensor I used to run magnetic switches for my camper shell doors. I will also install another glass breakage sensor back there in the near future. All major connections done with solder and heat shrink or 3m rubberized splice tape. I know I did a really good job and I know where all the wires are run (most in new looms).
Awesome!! None of this would have been possible for me without the wealth of information here. Thank you so much!!
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