95 bmw 318i, viper 5501

i am getting ready to install a viper 5501 remote start in a 1995 bmw 318i,  I have a couple of questions for you guys, I am very familar with electronics, but in looking over the wiring, am not sure where to hook the 2nd lock ouput this is off connector H2 # 6 wire off connector, light blue wire, instructions say i must use this wire - to use comfort closure feature, this is the only wire i will need off this connector, as i have no factory alarm etc , my other question , is I read alot of post about not using a test light , use a meter, (which i fully understand), I use to do circuit  board repairs, but am I the only one who likes to use a logic probe? i find a logic probe real handy, and wont hurt circuits, but will show logic highs and lows,  i still use a meter, but its great when your looking for a signal( trigger, pulse)thanks in advance ,for any reply i might get... ed

Any one seen Howard?commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5

who's Howard? thanks ed

Yes I agree with you, great for probing tach. As for the total close:- If no factory alarm do the following look to a plug on the body control module, middle quadlock plug. Pin 4 normally empty is your lock side and pin 17 opposite, blue/red is the unlock. You insert 1/4" stripped blue lock carefully into the bare receptacle then slide the plug casing home. Cable tie that blue to the loom to secure. Alternately you should be able to buy the terminals from a BMW dealer though you will only need 1 Green goes to 17. Now here's the trick at the alarm end,use 2 1N4004 diodes* in line on the lock and unlock side, bands away from the 5501 Take a third diode from the blue lock to the green unlock with the diode band towards the green. Programme your unit for comfort close 1. This will give you window/roof close with DEADLOCK on arming and normal locking on ignition. If a factory alarm I believe the colours on US spec models are different and we never had the factory alarm on the E36 so look up vehicle wiring on this site, 3 Series, E36 94-98. Reference the remote start. Tach is one of the non-common injector wire colours, 2 to each injector, OR black at the engine bay diagnostic socket but TEST, there's more than 1 black, OR black at plug going to rear of instrument panel. You WILL need a by-pass 556U set for Euro cars, no antenna loop, also if your factory key is plain use one, if it has factory lock and unlock buttons obtain the grey valet key for the 556, using one of the others causes all sorts of problems. Last, use the car's ACC at the ignition, purple (I call it Violet but WTH) as a second ignition don't use the remote starter's ACC it only powers the radio. If you don't it wont r/start. *Radio Shack I have photos of this install on a R/H/drive UK version, one shows the aforementioned plug, PM me with your email address if you want the photo.

WTH Darren did you post yours as I was writing mine?

thanks , let me get this straight, in my head, coming off the 5501 both the blue and the green wire put a diode in each wire(bands facing away from 5501), and then take a third one and go from the blue to the green (with band facing green) .... so i do not need to use any wires off H2 harness? not even 2nd unlock,  als i ordered a 556u ,  as far as getting the climate control to work will i have to tie into more than one acc wire, are the blowers on a separe wire? thanks again,ed

Yes exactly right, the reason is the low current lock outputs can be "spoofed" by feedback from the car's electronics. The diodes "condition" those wires to give pos feeds. That third diode enables deadlocking after about 3 secs.

WTH Tedmund. Did you also post the same time as t&t are you colluding via facebook or email, you can both talk to each other through my entry.