prestige remote start aps 620n no power

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newbie409

Member - Posts: 5

Joined: February 28, 2010

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: February 28, 2010 at 5:59 PM / IP Logged

Ok, I need some help with this setup, it's my first remote start install ever and have been patiently splicing each wire for this going on two days now.

Ok so the vehicle is an 02 Dodge Ram quad cab 1500, the remote start is a Prestige APS-620N. I've already spliced up all the main wiring for the control module like the constant power,starter output,ignition. Also did the parking lights and door locks and put in the needed resistors and connected everything else.

So I disconnected my battery and pluged in the control module, reconnected power and I'm not getting any output from the module. The led doesn't blink, the parking lights don't flash, the module won't even enter programming mode. I checked for power at the module and am getting 11.8 volts. Checked all my other connections and I am lost. What I can't figure out is shouldn't this module have a wire for ground? I don't know but I'm getting tired of staring at all these wires, any help is much appreciated.

Chris Luongo

Platinum - Posts: 3,746

This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: May 21, 2002

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: February 28, 2010 at 8:22 PM / IP Logged

Definitely won't work if it doesn't have a ground. The ground wire is black, in the three-pin harness that also has the parking light input (WHITE/ red with fuse) and parking light output (white).

andrew00perez

Member - Posts: 9

Joined: March 01, 2010

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: March 01, 2010 at 9:52 PM / IP Logged

yeah i just did mine and the first thing i got was the siren going off but very quite so i starting looking over all my wire hook ups a saw i hooked it to the wrong color wire and I FORGOT THE GROUND after rechecking all the wire that they get/give the right power/ground that is called for i got it working just follow the install man. and double check your work you can burn up a wire really easy.

thanks for you help i needed all i can get!!!!!!!!

newbie409

Member - Posts: 5

Joined: February 28, 2010

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: March 01, 2010 at 11:47 PM / IP Logged

Thank you so much for pointing me in the right direction, I think from now on I'm going to stay away from T tap splices and just sauder everything together. Yeah so my ground wire wasn't making contact with the vehicle ground. It's my fault anyways for not checking it with the dvom after I put the T tap on it. But hey what are newbs for ? hah

But now I got it powered up but the door locks won't unlock with the remote, they will lock with the remote but when I press the unlock button mutiple times on the remote it sets off the factory horn alarm. I spliced the control module's wires into the vehicle door locks WHITE/ green wire in the drivers kick panel with the needed resistors according to the diagram I found on bulldog's security website. So I'm kinda lost on this too. Maybe I need a relay somewhere??

Also when I tried to get the control module to learn the vehicle's tach for the remote start, that wouldn't work either. But this wire setup got me kinda confused because I can't find any diagram that tells me exactly what wire I need to splice into for the tach. So I went with with splicing into one of the wires on the ignition coil, driver's side, closest to the front of the motor, but no luck. Hey at least I got this thing to turn on, so now I'm a little closer to putting all these wires away, thanks for the help guys.

Also note: this is an 02 Dodge Ram quad cab 1500 with a 4.7 L V8 if that makes a difference...

Chris Luongo

Platinum - Posts: 3,746

Joined: May 21, 2002

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: March 01, 2010 at 11:53 PM / IP Logged

1. Are you using relays on the doorlocks or just straight resistors?

Any online wiring sheet you find will have the resistor values you need to do it the "correct" way, which is using relays.

The outputs from the unit are not as strong as it would be with relays. If you're using the outputs straight, you'll have to experiment with smaller and smaller resistors until you get it to work......try some resistors around 60-80% of the suggested value on Bulldog's site.

2. Tach.

Look at the 8 coil packs on your V8 engine. You'll see that they have either two or three wires.

On each different coil, you'll see that one (or two) of the wires are always the same color.

Then, you should see that there's another wire that's always different on each coil---that's the one you want to connect to for tach. You can use any of the 8 coils you want, but choose the un-common color.

I happen to usually use the fuel injector on Chrysler products just because the wire is usually a little longer and easier to splice into.......either coil or injector should work.

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: March 02, 2010 at 12:58 AM / IP Logged

Just 2 points to add to Chris's excellent comments, NEVER use T taps bad joints, electrically and mechanically, we are banned from using them here, ALWAYS solder.

I was always taught going back to the mid 70s to connect the ground FIRST, static dissipation.

I'm sure Chris and others will agree that at our level, we probably have the whole install planned out in our minds before we start. If you're a newbie, try and write down a procedure/check list and tick the boxes" as you go, testing at every stage. It really helps to eliminate mistakes.

newbie409

Member - Posts: 5

Joined: February 28, 2010

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: March 10, 2010 at 2:39 PM / IP Logged

Well I finally got back around to trying to finish this remote start setup. I did get the remote start to work by splicing into one of the fuel injector wires. And as mentioned used the uncommon colored wire, not the GREEN/ orange wire which all the injectors and coils have.

But I'm still stuck on getting the doors to unlock with the remote. On the 2-pin connector coming from the control module, I removed the resistor that I wired in for the unlock and connected it straight to the WHITE/ green unlock/lock vehicle wire and still nothing. So now I tried wiring in a relay I bought from Radio Shack. I'm not sure if it's the right relay or not because they don't say part number "775" or anything like that. It just says 40 Amp, 12 Volt DC Automotive Relay on the packaging. And it's 4 terminal relay.

Anyways I found some spare wiring to use on the contacts of the relay.

I wired terminal #30 of the relay to the WHITE/ green vehicle unlock/lock wire.

I wired #86 to the unlock wire coming from the control module.

I wired #87 straight to a chassis ground wire.

And I wired #85 to the WHITE/ red power wire going to the control module.

I tried the unlock button on the remote again and still nothing. But I can hear and feel the relay clicking. So I'm still lost on this.

What else am I missing here??

t&t tech

Platinum - Posts: 2,608

Joined: October 05, 2008

Location: Trinidad and Tobago

Posted: March 10, 2010 at 3:40 PM / IP Logged

Did you re-insert the resistor inline on terminal 30 of the relay?

commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5

newbie409

Member - Posts: 5

Joined: February 28, 2010

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: March 10, 2010 at 3:56 PM / IP Logged

No I didn't wire the resistor back in because it seems like its not getting enough power as is. Could the unlock circuit be getting too much power?

I haven't blown any fuses that I know of. The doors still unlock from the driver's switch.

Mike M2

Platinum - Posts: 2,652

Joined: June 29, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: March 10, 2010 at 4:54 PM / IP Logged

Unlock has to see a resisted value to unlock. Add the resistor between the WHITE/ green and the relay...

Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

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