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automatic headlights set off alarm


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pbustle 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: April 11, 2010
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: April 30, 2010 at 8:08 PM / IP Logged  
I am having a problem with my 727T Hornet that I  installed.  When I stop the Truck, 2003 F350 FX4 6.0L, at night when the headlights are on, and arm the alarm, the alarm will sound when the automatic headlights turn off.  At night, they remain on when you shut off the vehicle for a bit of time.  When they shut down, this causes the alarm to trigger.  Obviously, this only happens when the auto headlights are on and if I wait for them to shut off before arming the alarm, it is not an issue, but this is not always convenient.  Any way to bypass whatever is causing the alarm to go off?  Please advise.
Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: April 30, 2010 at 9:01 PM / IP Logged  
The first step will probably be to know which "zone" of the alarm is being triggered.
That is, the alarm usually has various inputs to be connected to the car's doors, trunk, hood, shock sensor, and so on. Each one of these inputs is called a "zone."
I've seen a 727T before, but never installed one.
Anyway, it generally goes like this:
1. Perform the necessary actions to make the alarm false. (That is, in your case, arm it with the auto headlights on.)
2. Wait for the alarm to false, then disarm it.
3. Without turning the ignition on, observe the red LED drilled into the dashboard (the LED for the alarm). It should be flashing a certain amount of times, over and over.
4. Post here how many flashes you're getting.
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
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Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: May 01, 2010 at 4:07 AM / IP Logged  
It's not voltage sensing is it? (Or have they finally discontinued voltage sensing?)
pbustle 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: April 11, 2010
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: May 03, 2010 at 4:16 PM / IP Logged  

I have checked this and  the alarm is setting off zone two after arming.  I can not figure out what would be causing this.  I will arm the truck, walk away and a few seconds later, the alarm will sound.  Zone 2 is the heavy impact for the shock sensor according to the manual.  I can not determine what woudl be impacting the alarm.

The shock sensor is located in the brain on this unit.  The brain is attached the the a/c duct above the headlight swich.  Any suggestions?

Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: May 03, 2010 at 7:50 PM / IP Logged  
I'm thinking either:
1. It's an old-style voltage sensing unit. That is, whenever the battery voltage changes, the unit assumes the domelight has been activated (by a thief opening the door). Maybe the lights shutting off makes the voltage change enough to trigger the alarm.
OR:
2. Maybe the automatic headlights have a relay that's in a location very close to the alarm's brain. When the relay clicks off, the alarm senses the vibration and considers this a shock sensor event.
Maybe try rolling the windows up and park in a very quiet environment. Let the auto lights time out and see if you hear anything.
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: May 03, 2010 at 8:35 PM / IP Logged  
I never like voltage sensing units - too unreliable. And I thought why not use the switch that triggers the light (voltage drop) instead - that way the alarm might work on my mum's car - she always turned off the door-triggered dome light doe safety reasons).    
But I think they were discontinued due to the number of modern accessories - as if the old normal instantaneous battery fluctuations or motor-wound spring clocks weren't problem enough.
The two things I would always disable on an alarm - voltage and shock (window breakage) sensing.
And yes - glitches resulting from spikes etc in nearby wires. They could effect both voltage sensing as well as "raw" switch inputs that were not properly decoupled (ie, a small cap to suppress radio interference etc).
My only two false trigger issues: a car alarm off door switches (decoupling caps), and on a domestic alarm - cold wind down wall cavity through PIR cable hole - fixed with plastitac/putty to seal the cable entry. But remember - I'm not an installer. (But I have advised & solved many installations, and defeated many more.)   

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