check connections

I drive a 2004 Toyota Celica, and i'm having trouble getting the auto start to work. Can someone please help me check my connections??? I bought the viper 5901 alarm. Thanks. Primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector H1/1 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT - not connected H1/2 RED (+)12v CONSTANT INPUT - 12v white under ignition harness H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT - + on siren H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN LIGHT FLASH -ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay - not connected H1/5 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND - ground H1/6 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT - not connected H1/7 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT - not connected H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT - not connected H1/9 BLACK/ WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT - not connected H1/10 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT - not connected H1/11 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT - lt green under steering column H1/12 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT - not connected Auxiliary harness (H2), 8-pin connector H2/1 LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK(-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT - not connected H2/2 LIGHT GREEN / WHITE(-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT - not connected H2/3 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT - connected to window module H2/4 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT - not connected H2/5 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT - not connected H2/6 LIGHT BLUE (-) 200mA 2ND UNLOCK OUTPUT - not connected H2/7 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT - not connected H2/8 BROWN / BLACK (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT - not connected Heavy gauge remote start, (H3) 10-pin connector 1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT - connected to ignition 2, blue/red 2 RED / WHITE (30A) FUSED IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87 - 12v white under ignition harness 3 ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT - gray accessory wire on ignition harness 4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE) - BLACK/ white starter side 5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE) - BLACK/ white key side 6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT - 12v white under ignition harness 7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT - igition 1 car side, BLACK/ orange 8 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY - ignitition 1, key side, BLACK/ orange 9 RED / BLACK FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT - 12v white under ignition harness 10 N/C N/C Remote start input, 5-pin connector 1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT - ground 2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE - BROWN / white behind tach 3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN WIRE - GREEN / WHITE at brake switch 4 GRAY N/O or N/C (-) HOOD PIN SWITCH INPUT, ZONE 6 - not connected 5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER - not connected Remote start auxiliary output, 5-pin 1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT - not connected 2 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT - not connected 3 VIOLET (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT - not connected 4 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT - not connected 5 BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT - relay for clutch bypass For the clutch i followed this guide from BrianxB from scionlife. "You will need a Bosch style relay (SPDT) and some extra wire/connectors to wire this to your remote start. The clutch switch has two wires leading to it and is located near the bottom of the clutch pedal assembly. When the pinswitch is depressed, the two wires create a circuit that sends a signal to the starter to start the car. What you have to do is "fool" the car into thinking that the pedal is down and complete the circuit. Wiring: Terminal ----> Where the wire goes 86 ------> constant 12v = battery 85 ------> ground wire from remote start while its engaged. On DEI systems this wire is usually reffered to as the status output wire. 30 ------> one of the two clutch switch wires 87 ------> the other clutch switch wire Do not cut off the clutch switch, simply tap the wires from 30 and 87 onto them and solder them into place. Now when the remote start is activated it will complete the circuit and start the car. When starting the car with the key you will still have to push in the clutch to start it." jt

Too much to read through in one go but your last para is incorrect. On the clutch switch wires you will have 2 possibilities:- TEST WITH THE IGNITION ON a) Neg in, open circuit on other wire, depress clutch second (output) wire goes neg. b) Pos in, open circuit on output, depress clutch and output goes pos. a) wire relay thus: Ign 1 to 86, status output to 85, ground to 87 and 30 to output wire. b) Wire relay thus: Ign 1 to 86 and 87 status output to 85, 30 to output wire. Don't forget, in each case place a 1N4004 diode across 86 and 85 with the band to 86. Your H3 is wrong. If the instructions say connect to ign1, then why have you connected your ign 1 input/output to ign 2? Also do you intend to use this as an alarm? If so why haven't you connected any of your door contacts? You can't programme this unit without the green wire going to a door pin or ground. For safety reasons you should also wire up the grey hood wire. What about a by-pass? Surely an 04 Celica needs one? Remove the cowling around the steering column and see if there is a plastic fairing around the ignition switch with 2 or more wires coming from it. You will also need to ground the keysense wire during remote start on Toyotas (wire at ignition switch which goes to ground when key is inserted) to disarm the factory alarm. I noticed you haven't mentioned the door locks either.

Howie: Your complicating things with the clutch switch, the way his instructions say is the best way although I'd trade ign +12v (12v with key on) for the constant +12v. Clutch is simple make/break so using the relay to make the connection during remote start is fine, don't need to figure pos/neg, which side is which crap. Yea I noticed that ign 1 and 2 are switched too. My guess is he wants the flex relay to break the connection to the ignition switch during a remote start. I thought about the factory security myself but his celica sounds very bare bones. Does toyota put factory security/immobilizer on their low end vehicles?

Confusing re the immobiliser 'cause everything in Europe had a transponder immob since 1st. Jan 97. That's why I suggested a physical look followed maybe by a hard wire test test test till I'm blue in the face and the amateurs still assume. Incidentally UK versions had a white plug for the Fujitsu dealer fit alarm, lock/unlock door trunk and hood contacts, power ground, and indicators (lights), centre console, top right above fuse/body control module. The problem with his version of ign. 1 wiring is that the R/S ign 2 will dump during cranking thus it will never start! Just understood what you meant about the clutch switch so I agree the first post is correct, just make sure it's a clutch switch and not a cruise control dumper! Seen people make that mistake with Hondas. Incidentally we don't have clutch switches in Europe. Or priority locking except Ford vans such as Transit Connect although you programme it on some VWs and BMWs

@howiee, sorry for the confusion about the door part. I'm a lil vague on it myself since me and my friend's been attempting this together. As of right now, i know the door sets off the alarm, but not fully sure if that green door trigger is set. I'll double check it. as far as factory alarm, there is none. We dont even have a chip in our keys. Car is pretty barebone. @catback. The only reason i did ign 1 and 2 switch was based off guides on other toyota cars. I have no idea the difference between switching them really. I just want this system to work. also i have tested the clutch switch by grounding the 85 on the relay to test if i can crank the car.jt