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wiring diagram for hyundai getz 2007


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christoscc 
Member - Posts: 1
Member spacespace
Joined: September 05, 2010
Location: Cyprus
Posted: September 05, 2010 at 2:53 AM / IP Logged  

Hi there. I have a hyundai getz 2007 facelift 1.4Lt manual and i want to install my Agilon al2000cs-rt.

Is anybody ho can provide me with the wiring diagram for my car?

Thanks in advance.

Yours cincerely Christos Christodoulou.

P.s. Waiting to hear from you soon.

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 05, 2010 at 5:23 AM / IP Logged  
OK, this is from memory based on one I did a few months ago. This applies to versions where you have to add an actuator in the driver's door.
If it already has keyless or multipoint (i.e. existing actuators in ALL doors), don't strip the driver's door, go to the driver's door kick panel for the 2 wires, neg pulse.
Remove driver side lower panel, drop steering column* and remove instrument panel. Remove drive's door panel.
Size depending your alarm CPU can be placed at rear of instrument panel.
At instrument panel you can pick up the following:-
Trunk hatch trigger,
All door trigger,
Left and right indicators,
Ground (earth),
Ignition sense,
Tach
and parking brake (handbrake) if required for remote start.
Just follow the bulbs, back through the printed circuits to the connectors and test.
*The steering column needs to be dropped, 2 x 12mm bolts,to access and remove the instrument panel, once dropped you can easily get at the ignition/starter leads etc. if you're doing a remote start.
This will give a very neat install with few wires accessible to an outsider.
I also placed the LED in the cowling facing the windscreen, eminently viewable from outside but not seen by the driver.
Actuator for locks fits in driver's door follow the lock rod angle, there's a "hole" in the inner door skin for your mounting.
Bring the leads out to the gap between front door and car body, there's a spare grommet for cable entry into the car, I also ran the siren and hood (bonnet) switch leads out this way through the wheel arch to the engine bay, I couldn't find or didn't want to drill a hole in the bulkhead, this way makes more sense in the long term.
This was my first, it took all of 4 hours and I can't give you the wire colours but they are easy enough to test.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 05, 2010 at 5:35 AM / IP Logged  
I just Googled the product. Please make sure you use TACH as the RPM feed, your tacho (rev counter) has three connections at the rear, 12v+ ign, earth (ground) and tach. Use a DMM set to 20VAC, black probe to ground. On engine run in idle this should read 2-3VAC will go to 5-6VAC on reving up.
You should not use the provided immobiliser relay, it's not needed on a European market car with transponder immobiliser, BUT you will need to by-pass the immobiliser obtain a DEI 556U for this function.

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