autopage c3 rs915, idatalink ads al ca

Hi, This set is going to 2005 Nissan Titan SE. All I need to work is security, starter, power lock on/off, hood pin, dome light. It looks like 2 way RS232 port save a lot of wiring but still need advice/help where to use diodes and relays in that truck. Do you think it`s DIY project ? I`m not sure anymore. Thanks

Looks like you only need one 30/40 Amp SPDT relay and a 20 amp fuse.  That's assuming the rs915 can supply one ignition, two starters and one accessory.  The truck has one ignition, two starters & two accessory wires.  The extra realy would be for ACC2.

For this truck, a DIYer would need basic automotive hand tools, a Digital Multi Meter, a soldering  gun with solder, eclectrical tape, etc ( and the skills to use them ).  The most difficult part would be getting the iDatalink ADS AL CA module flashed with the correct firmware ( ADS AL(DL) NI Ver 6.1 ).   The iDatalink module is a good choice and does a lot for you ( door locks, door status, bypass, tach ).  Even though its more wires to connect, I still prefer the W2W method.

The remote start unit would still be connected to the power, chassis ground, 5 ignition wires, the parking light, the brake light and a hood pin (if necessary, the bypass supplies that signal if the truck is factory equipped with a hood pin).  If the interior lights come on with a Factory Remote FOB unlock, the dome light supervision isn't necessary.

Having the system professionally installed usually gets you a lifetime warranty.

Soldering is fun!

Wow, thanks for fast reply I appreciate your help. I did few audio installs (I like soldering, OK with M-meter and tools) and I`d like to learn more about car alarms and starter. It is more complicated to me, I think worst part is diodes and relays, where to use them. So I`m not going to install anything till I know what I`m doing. Idatalink ads al ca 64 is already flashed with firmware by sonicelectonic, where I got the parts from.     Your right, RS915 6 pin heavy gauge harness supply: 2 red(+) power 1 violet(+) starter output - Truck require SECOND STARTER (+) 1 pink(+) ignition 2 output 1 yellow(+) ignition 1 output 1 brown(+) acc/heater output - Truck require SECOND ACC (+) But, here is my other question. How to make it work STARTER 2 and ACC 2 supply by 22 pin wire connectors, because they both: 200mA (-) outputs Is it a right way to do it ?

Does the RS915 allow you to switch the Pink IGN2 output via strap or programming to Starter2?  That would be one way to power the trucks second starter wire.  If not then you can use the RS915 22 pin (-) Starter and (-) Accessory outputs to control extra relays for those ignition wires.

Here is the basic relay wiring:

Relay Pin 86 and Pin 87 to +12v constant thru 20A fuse

Relay Pin 30 to trucks Starter2 wire.Relay Pin 87A not used - insulateRelay Pin 85 to RS915 (-) 200mA Starter Output Outpu

If you find an ACC2 wire (Bulldog lists one but AudioVox does not) you can do the same with another relay and the RS915 (-) 200mA Accesory Output.

Soldering is fun!

Not tired of me, yet ? :) I can`t find any info about programming Pink IGN2 output, I guess not programmable . Like you said, I`m going to use pin#2 for STARTER2 and pin#12 for ACC2 with relays ordered from ebay. The only thing I noticed on factory relay`s socket, there is a diode between pin 85 and pin 86, strip facing 85. So, my two questions are: 1. Should I use the same diode on my new relays for START2 and ACC2, strip facing pin 86, +12V constant ? 2. What is (only one) factory relay for, I don`t see where I can use it beside listed above applications ?

That is unusual.  The standard convention for relays is Pin 85 is (-) and Pin 86 is (+).  The common 30/40 Amp Bosch style relays will work fine.  There have been several discussions on Relays with quenching diodes on this forum.  There are installers that never use diodes on the coils and installers that swear by them.  If you decide to add the diode, get the 1N4004 or 1N4007 variety and remember to observe polarity as stated in Qurestion 1.

Here is a re-cap of the info from this site:

Diode across the coil of a relay:

The diode provides a path for current when the current path to the relay is interrupted (i.e. switched off). This allows the coil field to collapse without the voltage spike that would otherwise be generated. The diode protects switch or relay contacts and other circuits that may be sensitive to voltage spikes.  

When energizing the coil of a relay, polarity of the coil does not matter unless there is a diode across the coil.

If a diode is not present, you may attach positive voltage to either terminal of the coil and negative voltage to the other, otherwise you must connect positive to the side of the coil that the cathode side (side with stripe) of the diode is connected and negative to side of the coil that the anode side of the diode is connected.

I do not understand question #2.  If you are referring to the RS915s' IGN2 relay output, that is just they way they built it.

Soldering is fun!