2003 Ford Escape, Remote Start

i am trying to install an audiovox prestige APS-620N remote start with the xpresskit PKFM bypass on my 2003 ford escape and im having some issues.  i finished wiring in the xpress kit into the pats wiring and tried to program the xpress and it doesnt seem like it programmed. the led light on the xpress just flashes a steady flash and when the remote start attempts to start the theft light on the dash flashes fast and then nothing. i have tried programming the xpress a cpl times and i did get it to try and start and actually turn the car over.  also im not exactly sure that the remote start module tachometer rate is programmed completely.

i spoke with audiovox on programming the tach rate and he told me the rs module will click while its sensing the tach rate(which mine does) then when you turn the key off about 5 seconds later it should click once(mine doesnt do that) and then it is complete.

  i have gotten some wiring information about this install and a cpl places said you have to use a relay to isolate  the blk/pink key sense wire (i didnt wire that). i also used the pink white wire for the door lock feature instead of wirng it to the alarm arm disarm(could this be causing the problem?) this vehicle doesnt have a factory alarm on it just the theft pats system. im just not sure if i have a cpl different problems or just one easy fix.

any help here would be greatly appreciated.

thanks for everything

 here is the wiring info for the 2003 escape

WIRE COLOR LOCATION

12V CONSTANT Must go to battery for 12V Battery

12V IGNITION LT.GREEN/ PURPLE Ignition Harness

STARTER TAN/LT.BLUE Ignition Harness

12V ACCESSORY BLACK/ LT.GREEN Ignition Harness

PARKING LIGHTS (+) BROWN Driver’s Kick Panel

POWER DOOR LOCK AND UNLOCK PINK/WHITE Left Connector At GEM Module Behind

Center Console On The Floor. Remove

Panel To The Right Of Gas Pedal To Access

A single wire is used to lock and unlock the doors. Lock requires a negative trigger through a 1000-ohm resistor. Unlock requires a negative

trigger.

DOOR TRIGGER (-) PURPLE / LT,GREEN Right Connector At GEM Module Behind

Center Console On The Floor. Remove

Panel To The Right Of Gas Pedal To Access

REAR DOOR TRIGGER Tied in with doors

FACTORY ALARM ARM (-) LT.GREEN/ BLACK

FACTORY ALARM DISARM (-) BLUE/LT.GREEN

Left Connector At GEM Module Behind

Center Console On The Floor. Remove

Panel To The Right Of Gas Pedal To Access

TACHOMETER

DURATEC: Any wire NOT WHITE/ PURPLE

DURATEC: Any Ignition Coil

BRAKE WIRE (+) LT.GREEN At Brake Pedal Switch

HORN TRIGGER (-) YELLOW/LT.GREEN Right Connector At GEM Module Behind

Center Console On The Floor. Remove

Panel To The Right Of Gas Pedal To Access

This vehicle may be equipped with an Immobilizer system. This must be bypassed when installing a remote start system. Also, a relay must be

used to isolate the BLACK/ PINK (+) key-sense wire so that when the key is inserted the vehicle does not see two transponders at the same

hi, disconnect bypass, insert key in ignition, see if vehicle starts and runs. if it does, your tach learning is probably fine. if not, relearn. are the two ignition keys used for programming originals..do you know if they came with the vehicle...actual ford keys? have seen non OEM keys cause issues when trying to learn a third, which is what you are doing when programming the xpress module. the keysense wire and corresponding relay is to switch off the bypass when a key is inserted into the ignition cylinder. shouldn't be needed when using a non-key in box style bypass. as for the alarm, if it has one, it would go off when vehicle is remote started. i usually use the door key cylinder wires for locking and unlocking...have the remote start disarm before start then pulse the arm wire again to relock doors. believe you can send a pulse to unlock just drivers door, and another to unlock the others. hope this helps. mark

hello thanks for the response. the vehicle will start using the keys with the bypass hooked up and unhooked. the keys are factory ford keys. the door locks work as they are now but i am thinking along the same lines as you with sending a signal to disarm before start. am i correct in saying that you are using the alarm arm and disarm wires to lock and unlock the doors? there are like 3 different ways to lock and unlock the doors on this vehicle.

yes, the arm wire for locking, the disarm for unlocking..should be in the left kickpanel.

i tried remote starting the truck with the key in the ignition but not on and it started. the rs module made a constant buzzing sound and the illumination lights on the dash flashed dim then bright . at least the truck started with the key in though. not sure what would be causing the rs module to buzz and the dash lights to dim though

ok so i figured out the buzzing and dash light problem( once i unplugged the parking light feature from the rs module everything worked normal). the truck will remote start with the key in the ignition. i have tried to reset and program the bypass numerous times but it will not allow me to do the final step(which is remote starting the vehicle to finalize the program) after putting both keys in the ignition. if i put the key back in the ignition and try to remote start it after i try programming the bypass it will not start. only after i wait about 45 seconds will it allow me to remote start(key in).  i also tried to reverse the rx and tx wires but that didnt seem to do anything. any thoughts on why it is doin this  and why the parking lights would make that buzzing and dim situation?

thanks

 If you are using negative parking lights...Have you changed this feature on the rs...? I use the FLTB1 for bypass...You could always use a universal "key in the box" bypass...Then just take a ring from bypass to ignition cylinder...Could this be a cloned key... Flash-it has a hack for single key use/programming...! You can go to the flash-it .com website and put in year,make,model...Then choose FLTBF...Then choose to look at the install guide...Pages 4,6 should cover the bypass wires...

 BROWN / Orange is the tx wire(pin 3)... RED / Black is the rx wire(pin 4)...Should be a 4 pin harness

M.E.C.P & First-Class

Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

well i finally got it to work. i had to wire the xpresskit direct to the ignition and ground source instead of using the pats connector like it says to use in the intructions. the flash-it website help. thanks again for the help everyone.  i still need to get the parking light feature to work though.

thanks again