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pkall issues


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07blackfx4 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: December 05, 2010
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: December 05, 2010 at 9:22 PM / IP Logged  

Hello All,

I would be appreciative of any help you could provide. I am having trouble getting the PKALL to program.

2007 F150 with Viper 5901 and PKALL

Remote Start works with key in "Ign" position, but not otherwise.

PKALL lights the LED after connection, but does not program after following the instructions to the letter. It does blink once in the next to last step when you are to push the button for auto trans. TX / RX wiring has been verified, and even tried in swapped position just in case (in which case security goes on and vehicle won't start). Blue/white wire is connected to dark blue wire of Viper. Power is from +12V constant instead of ign since I have seen that suggested several times. Using D2D for the remainging wires. The LED turns on when button is pushed and then D2D is connected. I have tried various scenarios of when to connect the 2nd connector - with/without button, before/after LED. I have both original black keys that both work normally.

So...any guesses on what I have done wrong, or at least not done right yet?

07blackfx4 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: December 05, 2010
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: December 05, 2010 at 9:43 PM / IP Logged  

Although I've read several places that to hook the PKALL power line up to constant +12, is it possible that this vehicle need the 12V ignition since the keysense wire is not used? Too late to actually go try it, but that is the only idea I have left.

kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 05, 2010 at 10:18 PM / IP Logged  

At the last step, follow the manual trans instructions and jumper +12v to the Igntion wire instead of doing a remote start.  Watch for the 10 blinks...

Immobilizer connector Pin 4   RX   Gray/Orange              Pin 3   TX   WHITE/ Light Green

Soldering is fun!
blanx218 
Silver - Posts: 654
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 23, 2008
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 05, 2010 at 11:08 PM / IP Logged  
couple things. have you waited a few minutes after programming the PKALL before testing the remote start? Most Fords need to wait at least 2 minutes with no activity before the r/s will work. secondly, im guessing you have the blue/white from the PKALL connected to the blue status output in the 5 pin harness? just want to verify your connections.
zerepdivad 
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Joined: July 03, 2006
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: December 06, 2010 at 12:13 AM / IP Logged  
never have had to hook up ignition on pkall to constant. that doesn't make much sense to me. i always hold the button put in both connectors be fore the light comes on, key 1 in til light goes out, key 2 in til light goes out, activate remote start. works everytime unless of course one of the keys is a clone.
A DMM is a beautiful thing.
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kgerry 
Platinum - Posts: 3,455
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: February 07, 2004
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posted: December 06, 2010 at 11:23 AM / IP Logged  
if the vehicle R/S's fine with a key to IGN and not without it sounds like you missed powering a required IGN circuit.... if it starts fine with the key slid in but not turned it sounds like it might be a transponder issue.....
Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
07blackfx4 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: December 05, 2010
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: December 11, 2010 at 2:55 PM / IP Logged  

First of all, Thank you to everyone who provided valuable feedback and help.   It is greatly appreciated. I was just able to get back to working on this today. As with probably most cases, the problems were user error. I had to switch some of the power feeds from ign to constant on the viper, switched the bypass back to ign power, and fixed my RX / TX issues, and all is now programmed. Thanks again.

Now on to the locks. The biggest problem here (I think) is that I am partially color blind and am having issues figuring out which wires are the pink / YELLOW and pink/grn for lock / unlock. I have been look at the drivers side kick panel. Are these wires hooked to the green , gray, or black connectors? If so, does anyone know the pin number? I can test the wire for continuity with the wire directly at the lock switch on the door, but haven't yet found it.

zerepdivad 
Silver - Posts: 605
Silver spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: July 03, 2006
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: December 11, 2010 at 3:15 PM / IP Logged  
can you get to the door boot? often times on fords i 've had to get it in the boot because they go straight up where i can't reach them right when they get in the vehicle.
A DMM is a beautiful thing.
MECP Advanced Installer Certified.
07blackfx4 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: December 05, 2010
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: December 11, 2010 at 4:09 PM / IP Logged  

Ok, found the lock / unlock wires. When I pulse them to ground, they work as expected....but.....the blue wire from the viper seems like it is constantly shorted to ground, and the other lock wire doesn't seem like it is doing anything. So as soon as I hook them up, it automatically goes to unlock.  Any ideas here? I didn't see any specific programming option that was related to this.

zerepdivad 
Silver - Posts: 605
Silver spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: July 03, 2006
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: December 11, 2010 at 4:13 PM / IP Logged  
hmm sounds like a cracked out brain honestly. try a reset by unplugging all harnesses and touching a screwdriver to all of the prongs.
if that doesn't do it as a last resort you could always use factory alarm arm and disarm for locks.
A DMM is a beautiful thing.
MECP Advanced Installer Certified.
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