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2010 mazda 3 remote starter


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mdp297 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: January 02, 2011
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: January 02, 2011 at 3:53 PM / IP Logged  
I'm a first time remote car starter installer and I have a few questions. I'm installing an Avital 4111 remote starter and a PKALL bypass module on a 2010 Mazda 3. When I have all of the connections made and I press the starter button, I can hear the remote starter clicking but I have no power coming from the purple starter wire from the unit. I'm listing the connections that I have already made below and any help would be greatly appreciated.
Primary Harness
H1/1: Light GREEN/ Black (-) Factory Alarm Disarm --Not Connected
H1/2: GREEN / WHITE (-) Factory Rearm -- Not Connected
H1/3: Yellow (+) Ignition Out (To Alarm) -- Not Connected
H1/4: WHITE/ Blue (-) Activation Input -- Not Connected
H1/5: Orange (-) Ground When Locked -- Not Connected
H1/6: Brown (-) Horn Output -- Not Connected
H1/7: RED / White (-) Trunk Release Output -- Not Connected
H1/8: Black Ground -- Connected To Chassis Ground
H1/9: White (+/-) Light Flash -- Not Connected
4-Pin Satellite Harness
1: Blue (-) Status Output -- Connected to PKALL
2: Orange (-) Accessory Output -- Not Connected
3: Purple (-) Starter Output -- Not Connected
4: Pink (-) Ignition Output -- Not Connected
Heavy Gauge Relay Wiring
1: Pink (+) Output to Ignition Circuit -- Connected To Ignition Wire
2: Purple (+) Output to Starter Circuit -- Connected to Starter Wire
3: Orange (+) Output to Accessory Circuit -- Connected to Accessory
4: Red (+) (30A) High Current 12V Input -- Connected to 12V Constant
5: Pink/White (+) Programmable Output for Accessory or Ignition -- Connected to 2nd Accessory
6: Red (+) (30A) High Current 12V Input -- Connected to 12V Constant
Door Lock Harness
1: Blue (-) Unlock Output -- Not Connected
2: Empty Not Used
3: Green (-) Lock Output -- Not Connected
Remote Start Harness (H2)
H2/1: BLACK/ White (-) Neutral Safety Switch Input -- Connected to Ground
H2/2: Violet/White Tachometer Input Wire -- Connected to Fuel Injector Wire
H2/3: Brown (+) Brake Switch Shutdown Wire -- Connected at Brake Pedal
H2/4: Gray (-) Hood Pinswitch Shutdown Wire -- Connected to Hood Pinswitch
H2/5: Blue/White (-) 200mA 2nd Status/Rear Defogger Output -- Not Connected
blanx218 
Silver - Posts: 654
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 23, 2008
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 02, 2011 at 11:10 PM / IP Logged  
is the pkall programmed? is tach programmed? did you test the starter output or are you assuming this because the car doesnt crank?
mdp297 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: January 02, 2011
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: January 03, 2011 at 8:17 AM / IP Logged  
1. The PKALL has not been fully programmed because the last step is to activate the remote starter, which at the moment is not functioning properly. I have also read in other threads that if the key is in the ignition, the PKALL is not totally necessary (to check for remote starter functionality). With the key in the ignition the remote starter should still function. Am I incorrect on what I have previously read?
2. The Tach is setup and programmed properly.
3. I did test the starter wire with a multimeter. I have the power coming in on the 12v constant wires but nothing coming out when I activate the remote.
Thanks for you quick reply!

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