viper 480xv pin switch wiring

Hi there, I'm new to the forum so hi all! I am having a problem with a Viper 480XV installed into a 2001 VW Golf (Jetta) SE Cabriolet. The pin switch under the bonnet is wired incorrectly. The switch is a standard push to break pin switch (switch made when bonnet is open, broken when bonnet closed), one terminal of which is grounded to the chassis, the other terminal is connected to the alarm. The alarm gives a warning "blip" when armed with the bonnet shut but if the bonnet is open, it arms fine. After diagnosing this problem, I have found that the switch (or the alarm input) is wired the wrong way round. It will arm when not pressed and set the alarm of when depressed. Is there a simple way to correct this as I can't find any standard push to make pin switches? Thanks, Rich.

The 'boot' trigger input (Blue on H1 Harness) should only be active when ground is applied to it. You are saying that when nothing is applied to that input the alarm is reporting it as being triggered? Most standard pin switches are wired the same way...nothing when depressed, ground when out/extended.Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

I have a feeling he's using the factory switch, i know dei makes a program setting for those types of switches, but i am not familiar with the 480xv so i can't say if it has the feature.  If it doesn't then you would have to locate a normally closed switch.

Yes, I am using the factory switch. No connection when depressed, grounded when out/extended.

well follow my instructions and mount an aftermarket piece if you don't have the available programming on the unit.

VW Golf/Jetta/Bora/Rabbit etc. etc. etc. UK Version, RH/Drive. "Comfort Control" black box under dash right hand side, held by two brass coloured T 20 (later versions) or Phillips M5 screws. Two plugs if it has factory alarm and power windows, one plug if not. Hatch/boot (trunk) trigger, thin BROWN / black there is also a thicker one don't use. Bonnet (hood) trigger BROWN / red. Both will go to earth (ground) when either opened. Test at plugs. 480XV Grey wire = hood. Blue wire = trunk. Use inline 1N4004 diodes band towards your join between the plug and your join (sleeper circuit). Door trigger light blue/white or light blue/grey just join, not affected by sleeper circuit. Both hood and trunk are triggered by microswitches in the catch/release mechanisms . NOTE: The trunk one fails across the range, make sure dome (courtesy light) in trunk works when you open the tailgate/trunk lid. If you have a factory alarm it will give you nightmares if you don't insert the key and turn on the ignition within 13 seconds. To disable the factory alarm, go back to the comfort box, cut the yellow/black siren wire, the ultrasonics feed and the indicator wires, BLACK/ green and BLACK/ white (join the alarm's whites to these two). All you will then get will be a faint clicking when you fail to turn the ignition key after disarming and timing out. Set the 480XV for comfort close. If all of the above fails, use a pin switch in the engine bay. N.B. This is supposed to be a Cat l dealer install unit only, so don't expect any warantee.

I want to go back and shoot myself. I missed one small word in the first post, CABRIOLET. Subject to a visual I'm pretty sure that vehicle was a hybrid mixture of Mk lll and Mk lV parts. The hood switch would have been aftermarket and has probably corroded by now. Just change the switch and the wiring, but then again why a 480 with Ultrasonics in a cab? That's going to give you fun in the summer unless you simply add a 508d but don't worry, the LCD remote would have failed by then.