2008 350z, remote start

So, I'm installing a viper 5701 into my 2008 350z, and I come across the wonderful description for where the parking brake wire and parking lights wire are: "driver kick, harness to rear". My question is this: Where in the bloody he!! is this harness located? I swear I'm not retarded (only act it in special cases like this) but I'm really starting to get peeved at it, and thought someone might be able to shed some wondrous light on the position/placement of it for me. Thanks in advance! Side note: also was wondering how people were running their wires for this model through the firewall. I see a rubber grommet right above the accelerator that goes through to the brake master cylinder, but there's no good way to feed a wire through there easily. How are others getting the siren/hood latch wires out to the engine compartment?

Take the kick panel off in the drivers kick area. Behind the kick panel you'll find the BCM and a bunch of wires. The wires most likely go down under the carpet towards the back of the car. There are numerous ways to go through the firewall. My typical rule of thumb is to find a wire harness grommet and go through there. If I can't find such a harness I drill my own hole and use a plastic grommet.Kevin Pierson

I thought about this after I posted, and I was looking for a specific molex (or the like) harness connector to grab the parking break and parking lights from. I presume the "harness" they refer to is simply the highway of wires running up the body of the car just infront of the BCM. I'll have to dig there and see if anything comes up. Thanks for the reassurance there though. As for the firewall, I may have to just drill my own hole then :( The only grommet I found is a bit more "glove" fitting and problematic to get through than it would ever be worth I am afraid, so I didn't know if there was another easy way to do it that wouldn't require me breaching the firewall. Though as long as I don't go crazy with it, and use a grommet, I can't see any problems with creating my own entry point.

drivers kick harness running to the rear.A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

Only had one more question. For bypassing the clutch upon remote start engaging, there's a depression switch at the top and bottom of the clutch swing. The top (clutch disengaged) appears to be 12V when the clutch is all the way out, and ground when the clutch is depressed at all. The bottom (clutch fully engaged and depressed to the floor) seems to do the opposite - gnd at rest, 12V when fully depressed to the floor. First, I would think I could tie the bottom switch directly with the car side starter output from the remote start, so it sees 12V when starting. (Right?) This may be me just being tired, but the top switch will require a relay to turn to gnd upon start, will it not?

The top switch is only to disengage cruise control. It isn't needed when starting. The bottom switch is the starter interlock. I believe you are correct about the starter output - tie the starter output in to the clutch switch and it should work.Kevin Pierson

I can affirm that the top switch is not involved with the start sequence, but only the bottom (clutch fully depressed) should be 12V when starting. Only problem with finding that out was I think I blew a fuse somewhere on my clutch switch line and can't figure out where it is. Before, the line in (GREEN/ YELLOW wire) was 12V constantly and the line out (gray/red wire) was ground until the switch is pressed, then went to 12V so the starter would work. Now, both lines are dead from a mishap and I'm seeing if anyone knows what fuse that would be and where it would be located, or if someone has any other idea what could be the cause for loss of voltage there. (I checked the kick panel fuses and the box next to the battery and none are blown)

How did you check the fuses? Did you use a meter? Does the ignition still come on with the key?Kevin Pierson

Well, I managed to miss the IPDM fuse box that's behind the battery, which is where the clutch fuse is located, so luckily that's all the problem was. Everything worked fine with the fuse blown, except the car couldn't start unless you hard-wired 12V to the clutch out wire to bypass the clutch switch. Oddity that I'm seeing also is with an Xpresskit XK09 bypass module, I'm going to still have to wire the key sense wire high upon remote start. I thought the bypass module normally handled that, but in this case, for some reason, it doesn't appear to be. :/ (Loss of a couple hours figuring that one out haha)

Forgot to note, I'm using the NISS2 firmware for the bypass module also.