doing first remote start

Hi all! I have to say, searching i found pretty much everything on this site that i need to do my first remote start install Viper 5301 Remote Starter on my 2005 Honda accord. I'm grateful for how much information is on this site and i really appreciate it! The only thing i couldn't find an answer on is this...... I'm looking at these Transponder-Bypass things, and I'm confused which one i can or should use....they all say its compatible with the 2005 Accord, but i guess i don't know which would be the best one to use. this http://www.xpresskit.com/product.aspx?productid=196 this http://www.xpresskit.com/product.aspx?productid=346 or this http://www.xpresskit.com/product.aspx?productid=212 Also, the D2D setup is confusing me a little bit. With those Transponder-bypass kits, since im using D2D are their certain wires on the Remote start that i wont have to connect now? And which device is best to start connecting first? the bypass or the Remote starter wires? Last thing is how to properly connect the wiring. Since there is only 1 ignition wire for the 2005 accord, and i saw multiple ignition wires for the Viper 5301, do i connect all the ignition wires from the RS to the 1 ignition wire on the car? Do i spread them out a long the wire? or bulk them all together then splice in? I guess im just trying to figure out the proper wiring procedure here so i don't melt anything lol. thanks so much in advance guys! cheers!

http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp

H3/1 to BLACK / YELLOW  Ignition 1

H3/2, H3/5, & H3/8 to White (12 Volts Constant)  Also H1/2 to 12 Volts Constant.

H3/3 to BLACK/ Red  Accessory 1

H3/4 to BLACK/ White   Starter

H3/6 to WHITE/ Red  Accessory 2...Comes defaulted as Ignition 2, needs to be changed to Accessory 2

H3/7 Not used

Solder all connections...Test and verify all wires prior to making any connections.  Wiring diagrams are only a guide.

When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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thank you. I actually already have the wiring diagram. Ill of course test everything, it would be stupid not to lol :) Any idea about the transponder-bypass's or my question about bundling wires to a single connection?

For the bypass I always like to use the PKH3 by xpresskits for transponder bypass only if the car doesn't have a factory alarm(available on Ebay for about $18 now) If the car has a factory alarm then I like to use the idatalink ADS-AL CA. It arms/disarms the factory alarm without having to go into the driver door and does the transponder bypass all within 1 unit. Make sure if you are going to buy this unit from somebody that they will load the correct firmware into it for your car. These units need to be programmed by a computer first. This unit is overkill if it doesn't have a factory alarm, as all the wires you need are in the drivers kick panel and under the panel that's below the steering wheel. As for the ignition wires, there is only one wire connected to each of the ignition wires in the car. Follow what is posted above. He is showing you which wire from the remote start goes to which wire in the car. He did the "cross reference" for you. Always test first though...

yes the accord has a factory alarm, so you recommend the idatalink then? I guess the D2D thing is just really confusing me and i don't understand completely how it works and what it does. I saw a post someplace on this site where a guy was installing a remote start in his GMC, and used the transponder-bypass via D2D and he said that connecting it via D2D saved him from having to connect 12 wires. this make any sense?

i guess what im asking....do i still need to connect the tac wire, brake wire and all of that with the remote start wires, or does that information go through the D2D cable? please excuse my noobness, im just trying to understand how it all works before i attempt it :)

smokeman1 wrote: http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp H3/1 to BLACK / YELLOW  Ignition 1 H3/2, H3/5, & H3/8 to White (12 Volts Constant)  Also H1/2 to 12 Volts Constant. H3/3 to BLACK/ Red  Accessory 1 H3/4 to BLACK/ White   Starter H3/6 to WHITE/ Red  Accessory 2...Comes defaulted as Ignition 2, needs to be changed to Accessory 2 H3/7 Not used Solder all connections...Test and verify all wires prior to making any connections.  Wiring diagrams are only a guide.

wait a sec....I think i get what your saying now. All the wires listed above plus the H1/2 get connected....everything else works through the D2D wire?

No.  The wire connection list above is only for the H3 harness ( main ignition ) harness.  You will still need to make other physical wire connections for many wires on the other harnesses.

The D2D connection is used for communication with the bypass module, if supported.  If you use a DEI bypass module, D2D is usually supported.  You should down load the bypass modules install guide for more info on what features will be available thru the D2D connwection.  Any not shown / mentioned will be connected from the Viper directly to the vehicle.

As mentioned above, if you have a Factory Alarm and don't want to run wires into the door, a full featured bypass module is the way to go.  The DEI DB-ALL is in this catagory and can go D2D with the Viper.  That will save some wiring.  An iDatalink ADS AL CA loaded with the  DBI-AL(DL)-HA (Ver 4.71) will also work in D2D mode.  Here is a link to the iDatalink site.  http://www.idatalink.com/helpdesk/  Look up your car and download the install guide.  It will give you all the bypass supported features and connections.  ( BTW - Just did an '08 Acura TL today with the iDatalink ADS AL CA bypass module in W2W mode, and it worked flawlessly.  Same firmware and install Type wiring as your '05 Accord. )

Soldering is fun!

Sorry I was out all day, I agree with Kreg. I always use W2W and make all my connections between the remote starter and the bypass before-hand. I never use D2D, very hard to trouble shoot. The first thing tech support will tell you if you are having a problem and you used D2D, is try W2W. Then you need to modify your install while its in the car... or pull it and modify... The idatalink has worked flawless for me as well with the firmware listed above. Beats running the wires out to the door to arm/disarm the car alarm. I used to hate getting all that white stuff from the Molex plug all over your tools and hands. Anybody that used to run those wires knows what I am talking about. I am also on the DEI forums and ALOT of people hate the DB-ALL. I personally haven't used one yet. I don't think I will either until I start to hear better things about it.

Ah the joys of getting through Honda molex type plugs!