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5701 issues


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tagar1989 
Member - Posts: 16
Member spacespace
Joined: October 09, 2011
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: October 14, 2011 at 6:06 PM / IP Logged  
Car: 84 Ford ltd.
Problems: where do I connect the nss wire to. The diagram doesn't really say.
How do I switch from negative.polarity to positive for the door locks
Does the brake wire need to be connected on a automatic car?
kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 14, 2011 at 6:24 PM / IP Logged  

1984 Ford LTD - a classic!

For a vehicle with automatic transmission, connect the Neutral Safety wire to chassis ground ( after verifing that the car can't be started in gear ).

Use relays to change the polarity of the Vipers (-) lock signal output to a (+) 12V signal ( https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page1.asp )

or buy a DEI 451M module ( $10 ).  Here is a link to the 451M install guide :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=726

The (+) Brake input wire from the Viper must be connected.  It allows "key take over" and is a mandatory safety feature.

Soldering is fun!
tagar1989 
Member - Posts: 16
Member spacespace
Joined: October 09, 2011
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: October 14, 2011 at 7:03 PM / IP Logged  
So I do need relays. The install manual said the system itself could do it. Oh well.
On the nss, I connected it and its still not starting. 8 blinked from the flashers which says something about the nss wire I believe.
Would there be another place I can mount the brake wire because I can't find switch or get to it.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 14, 2011 at 7:34 PM / IP Logged  

Sorry, not a Viper person so I'm not positive but older Vipers had "push-pull" lock outputs.  Think I heard the new versions only have (-) outputs.  Put a Digital Multi Meter on the Green wire and see.

Re: 8 Blinks - Did you connect the Neutral Safety Switch and set it to "ON"?

Re: (+) Brake input wire - You could go directly to a Brake Light bulb connector ( 1034 bulb? ).  Long wire but...  Not much info out there for a R/S in older cars.

Soldering is fun!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 14, 2011 at 7:40 PM / IP Logged  

Here is a link to the new style Viper 5701 Install Guide :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1019

New style 5701 shows only (-) 500mA lock outputs.

Soldering is fun!
tagar1989 
Member - Posts: 16
Member spacespace
Joined: October 09, 2011
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: October 15, 2011 at 12:47 AM / IP Logged  
I spent 2 hours trying to figure out how to switcfh them to positive and then i took me 5 minutes to hook up two relays lol.
Set it to on on what? the alarm itself. If so then no i havent. Didnt know i needed to.
The brake light wire wouldnt be in the wiring that goes against the rocker would it?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 15, 2011 at 2:00 AM / IP Logged  

Take a look at Page 5 of the new style 5701 Install Guide linked previously.  Hopefully the illustration matches your 5701 brain.  On the side where the Door Lock Harness and Antenna plug in, there is a two pin port, third from the left, marked Neutral Safety Switch.  The blue line shows a two position toggle switch.  That switch / harness must be plugged in and set to the "ON" position for the chassis ground that you connected at H2/18 BLACK/ White ( Neutral Safety Wire ) to be seen by the brain and allow a remote start.

There should be a switch at the top of the brake pedal with the RED / Green (+) Brake wire.  You might get lucky by checking the wire colors at the tail light connector in the trunk.  Find the brake light wire there and its' color, then search in the harness going under the door sill from the kick panel for that same color / thickness wire.  Test with a DMM. 

Soldering is fun!
tagar1989 
Member - Posts: 16
Member spacespace
Joined: October 09, 2011
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: October 17, 2011 at 3:30 PM / IP Logged  
So the toggle switch was the answer. Anyways I started it and turned it off like ten times. I went to hide the brain and tried to start it and it didn't start. You hear the fuel pump turn on like its about to start but then it doesn't crank. No flashing anything to tell me why. The car starts fine with the key. I'm at a loss
tagar1989 
Member - Posts: 16
Member spacespace
Joined: October 09, 2011
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: October 17, 2011 at 3:43 PM / IP Logged  
Would me unpluging everything from the brain then reconnefting everything have something to do with it? Maybe settings
tagar1989 
Member - Posts: 16
Member spacespace
Joined: October 09, 2011
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: October 17, 2011 at 4:02 PM / IP Logged  
Never mind. Found the problem. On of the tiny pins got bent. Time to reinstall the wiring. FML

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