2011 cr v dome light wiring

Hi folks, 2011 CR-V dome light wiring-two questions: (1) I want to id the wires at interior kickpanel by connector, wire color and location (I know B+ source is at engine fuse block 7.5 amp, but no idea where it penetrates firewall.)  Can anyone help id? and (2) Since I want to add footwell courtesy lights (using preballasted 12v LEDs), is there any weird issues associatted with security system that I need to be aware of? Thanks!

I can't tell you the above, that's for going on-line, Honda Forum, library, etc. The dome colour is purple with silver dots, one of three wires going to a white 42 pin plug to the right of the dash fuse box. Any thick white for 12v+ constant.

I'm thinking the same as Howie. The plug you want is clipped onto the fuse box. Howie has it as being clipped to the right side of the fuse box. Somehow I want to remember that it's clipped to the bottom of the fuse box instead, but I could be wrong. I'm pretty sure there are only three wires in that plug, and that you can actually follow the harness and see that it goes up the A-pillar to the headliner. I'll bet if you test those three wires you'll find that one is constant, one is ground, and the other is negative-trigger domelight. Once you find which one is constant, remove the car's domelight fuse and check the same wire again. If the constant power went away, then you know for sure you're on a circuit protected by the domelight fuse. And I think you'll find that the Honda domelight fuse is going to be around 7.5 or 10 amps. If you tap directly into that small constant wire next to the domelight wire, you should be OK and be protected by the Honda fuse. However, it might not be a bad idea to put your own 5-amp fuse inline going to your LEDs. That way if your wiring shorts out, only the LEDs will stop working, and the regular Honda domelight will keep working until you fix the problem. Also, I'm not sure if the domelight fuse also feeds the radio, but it's a possibility. Make sure you have the radio code on hand just in case you have to re-enter it.

DEI says the side but as I'm sure Chris would agree, look for yourself and TEST. That purple wire with silver stripes will go to ground when you open the door, shut the door then loose it's ground whether after about 30 seconds or on locking the car. Apart from the purple there's a brown and a third colour. One as Chris says should be a 12v+ constant, the other a constant ground. But what do I know, I've never even seen a left hand drive CRV.

The plug in mention is on the side Chris. The Civic has it on the bottom. I agree with Howie, get power elsewhere...Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

THANK YOU ALL kindly for input and feedback-the power of the team is always a great thing!

I am used to chasing wires on aircraft, but just not familiar with design/marking processes on Honda's tech (e.g. not sure how timing of dome light cycle is accomplished-could be anything from dumb bimetalic relay to low volt chip) -Honda seems to be actively "modern", so with today's common use of .5 to 1.5v high state logic circuits that can be sensitive to ohms checks or unfiltered voltage spikes, didn't want to go poking around unless forced to (but now that I know what to look for, I can proceed foward.... and yes, I am intending to add independant fuse to that leg.  thanks again to all!

This is relevant to on board body control, locks windows HVAC rather than engine management. As background the Europeans, especially the French "jumped" into on-board processing in the early 90s and NEVER got it right, I can't tell you how many stupid reliability issues we get from French and to some extent Italian cars. BMW got it right from about 98 and Mercedes 05. The Japanese waited and got it right first time. The car industry is roughly 18 years behind military avionics in development and I wouldn't expect the products to achieve aircraft levels of reliability for some years yet.