1997 f250 door locks

Hello all, New guy here,

I bought a 97 Ford f250 4wd and the electric door locks don't work. I was told by the seller that the truck had an alarm system on it from the factory and they took it out cause it kept going off. I was also given a keyless remote for the truck, whick also does not work. I checked the battery in the remote and its good. Snooping around the truck, I found 6 wires near the drivers kick panel that have been cut. 2 pink, 1 black, 1 green, 1 yellow and 1 white.  I think these come from the door lock switch because when i check them with my test light and multimeter, the black has 12 volts all the time and one of the pink wires has 12 volts on unlock and the other pink has 12 volts on lock. I am unable to find where these wire were cut from, I can't find the other end. The passager side has not been cut, but the door lock doesn't work there either, again I confirmed the switch was not bad. So after all this, what I would like to know is there a way I can make the door locks work again? Do I need relays? I think they took out the keyless remote reciever also because I can't find it. Would an after market system be the best way to go? Any help or advice would be really helpful. Thank you

On those vehicles, you had to cut the factory wires and install relays to work with an aftermarket system... you can just re-attach the cut wires... that should make the switch on the door work... If you're going to try to install/fix the alarm/keyless... have you ever used a DMM or Relays?M.E.C.P & First-Class

Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Both sides have to be there, as both sides are used... 1997 Ford F250     DirectWire 2.0 Vehicle Information Keyless Entry Item     Wire Color     Polarity     Wire Location 12 Volts     yellow      +     ignition harness Starter     RED / lt. blue      +     ignition harness Ignition     RED / lt. green      +     ignition harness Data Bus    Can Bus High    Can Bus Low    Can Bus Sw    Power Lock     pink / YELLOW either kick panel Negative trigger on the keyless-entry versions and 5-wire on all the rest. ESSENTIAL to use drivers switch when testing for switch and motor sides. The wires are much easier to access on the passenger side due to the E-brake blocking the drivers kick. Power Unlock     pink/green either kick panel Negative trigger on the keyless-entry versions and 5-wire on all the rest. ESSENTIAL to use drivers switch when testing for switch and motor sides. The wires are much easier to access on the passenger side due to the E-brake blocking the drivers kick.M.E.C.P & First-Class

Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

5 Wire Alternating 12 Volts Positive Door Locks Like the configuration above, the switch, when moved in either direction, applies both power and ground directly to motor legs without the use of any relays. Except, at the switch in this case, both motor legs rest at ground . Therefore it is only necessary to change the polarity of one motor leg to lock or unlock the vehicle. https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#5w It wont let me copy image and paste. not sure if this is new to save space...? But the link will get you there and look at 5 wire diagram w/ SWITCH... M.E.C.P & First-Class

Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Thank you Tommy,

I have not used DMM or relays before. I just didn't know how difficult a project this was going to be. Only the drivers side is missing part of the harness. I think they cut it out when they took the factory alarm and they also took the keyless remote reciever. Under the dash by the steering wheel there seems to by some stuff missing. I can fab up wires to run to both door locks, just didn't know if they had to run through a relay in able to work. The Haynes book I bought is not real clear on this. Would it be real hard to re-install the keyless reciever? Thank you very much

Not too hard, but if you havent worked with this stuff... could pull out a couple hairs... and fuses... Both sides have to be there... Might just have to dig alittle deeper...M.E.C.P & First-Class

Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Just re-Attaching the wires should be sufficient...*BTW... You're Welcome...M.E.C.P & First-Class

Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!