success ca 6552/flcan honda ridgeline

Well with the help of the many informative people here and research online I just finished my first RS/alarm install.. I have to say it was kinda rough, just trying to hide that brain and all the wires ever though i did it D2D it was a Bi**h ... i give props to "proper" installers who take pride in there work... i managed to get everything working, still wanna try to connect a truck release to my in bed trunk but that can wait cant locate the RED / blue in the micu for that one for some reason.. but i do have a quick ??? before i ramble on to much.. so say i arm the system, then R/S it but leave the window down... is the security still working once R/S ??? i ask this because i can reach in manually unlock the door and open it and no alarm goes off,, now someone cant really steal the truck cause once i step on the brake she shuts down but i guess belongings inside can be taken... i did'nt connect the green door trig input - from the 8 pin input harness.. i guess this might be the reason,, can i grab the int lights for this to monitor all the doors... I got the FLCAN with HA1 flashed working good.. it monitors hood threw the factory switch i presume, working door locks etc.. if anyone has input it would help me out.. been an ASE master tech for 20 years but this was my first alarm R/S install... kinda kicked my butt LoL Thx Guys

sorry should have mentioned 2009 honda ridgeline RTL with a code alarm CA6552 and Audiovox FLCAN FLC-AL(DL)-HA1 flashed to V1.11

Yes the vehicle should be armed while the vehicle is remote started.  The shock sensor won't work of course but the door triggers, trunk trigger, hood and ignition should all still be protected.  The Viper I installed would shut down the vehicle if you reached in and manually unlocked the doors.  All your triggers for doors and hood should be done through D2D connection but if they aren't working just wire them straight from the FL-CAN to the Code Alarm brain. The trunk trigger, which is for your pop up compartment in the bed is protected by the FL-CAN as well but you still have to W2W the connection.

The trunk release wire is in the drivers kick panel in a green connector.  If you remove the kick and panel and look to the upper left you will see the fuse box, the green plug you are looking for his facing out towards the rear of the car,  they are a PITA to get out but if you loosen the fuse box you can pull it forward and get enough room to disconnect it and make your connections.

I just did a Viper 5704 with the FL-CAN a few days ago.  So it's still pretty fresh in my mind if you have more ?'s

Thx for the reply Buddholly.. thats the green connector i thought looks like a p.i.t.a. to get to lol.. i'll try to find the inbed trunk release wire and attach the trunk release output (-) to it and give it a shot.. says to hold down unlock to pop truck.. i located the interior dome light supervision wire you think i could connect the green door trigger input (-) from the C.A. brain to that or just do like you said and take the yellow/black door status (-) output from the FLCAN to that green wire on the brain ???? also where in the heck did you hide the brain and bypass theres nowhere under there.. with the parking brake mechanism there and moving parts i found it hard to find a spot for the brain... i have to say my first install went well but i have to give it to you MECP guys doing this every day... I worked at a gm dealership for 20 years and seen some t tap butcher work with alarms in my days... thx for your help again... another quick question sometimes when i unlock the truck it only does the drivers door and other times it does all and i dont mean 2 step unlock.. i dont even know how to set that up LOL

Thx for the info on that in bed trunk wire budd but omg how did you even get to it in that connector in the micu ???? unreal.. i wound up tracking it down to the loom in the sill area and tapped in there and ran the wire back up to the brain.. I'm 99% there last is to figure out the door trigger input (-) gonna try to catch it at the interior lights but hope the theater dimming doesnt freak the system out... where did you wire it to on that viper you just installed ??? Thx..

That plug does suck to get to.  I use a tape and splice method so that makes it a little easier to get to compared to trying to get a soldering iron in there.

The FL-CAN should do your door triggers through the data connection. You could just wire the door triggers W2W (Green (-) door trigger on Code Alarm to Yellow/Black on FLCAN). I'm assuming they don't even work when the car is not started...?\

As far as the unlock, I also had issues with it not wanting to unlock.  It would do priority unlock through the factory key fob but I couldn't get it to ever unlock the drivers side through the Viper.  To fix it I wired my lock/unlock  from the Code Alarm straight to the FLCAN (Just like I mentioned above for doing your door triggers. You could try setting unlock to double pulse and that might work to unlock all them at the same time. I noticed it would the unlock all doors when remote started and keep the priority unlock still when the car was not started.

My brain was mounted above the driver kick just have to watch your wires and clearance, could also probably put it below the center console if need be.

Thx for the added info.. I'll try to wire it like that 90% of the time the locks work perfect, its just that one time that hitting unlock will only unlock the d/s door... all the other times it opens all 4.. so say i wire the door status green on the brain to the yellow/black on the bypass and the locks blue unlock & green lock to the blue/black unlock & GREEN/ black lock arm on the bypass will it mess anything up if i just leave the data cable connected.. i also zip tied the brain above the micu fuse box but what a pain.. no where under there for anything.. dont know how you guys do it... hats off Thx again I appreciate it

You shouldn't have any issues using d2d and w2w, I do it all the time.

thx i'll try what you've suggested....do you think i can connect that green wire from the brain, the door trigger input (-) to the dome light circuit at the interior light switch so it catches all the doors..

DAMMMMMM i thought i had this thing all buttoned up but now its acting up after i tried the door trigger green wire hook up... before once i remote started even after the alarm was active, leds flashing slowly and working i could reach in manually lift the lock up, open the door and than nothing would happen, dome lights would come on car would stay running but no alarm going off nothing... brake shut down but whats the sense the car has been entered and no alarm off... so i connected the green wire from the codealarm brain to the dome light supervision on the interior light switch, now the horn honks like 4 or 5 times when arming when i shut the horn off in the programming section and only using the siren ???? tried connecting that green wire to the FLCAN also same thing happens... but now when i R/S, i open the door nothing happens but shut it and the shock sensor triggers and alarm freaks out... I'm stumped and tired of taking panels and wires off GRRRRRR.....