2000 corolla sp 400

After a recent pattern of window shattering and radio stealing I decided to bite the bullet and stick an alarm on my old corolla. Since I'm spending the money I went with a unit also capable of remote start and various customizable options. I've got the car stipped, unit and all of the accessories mounted and wired. As well as the locks, tach, factory arm/disarm and ignition partially wired. I'm unsure of two things: I read somewhere online that the 12v+ white wire in the ignition harness is 50A. I haven't been able to find any other info online to confirm this or not but if it IS the alarm unit isn't capable of >30A... With the 4-pin harness that has two timed aux wires and a third start wire... Am I understanding this properly that I don't need any of these items? Also, I don't have much interest on installing the hood pin... Can I just ground it so it reads closed always? Heres the manual: http://www.crimestopper.com/Templates/2009_manuals/ComboSystem/sp-400_ins.pdf

That 50amp wire is correct all your constants go there but keep the fuses. Remember this unit has to have provision for a second ignition, BLACK / YELLOW on the car. 2 reasons the hood pin is MANDATORY or think it through.. A safety for any one working under the hood. Best way to kill the alarm? Force open the hood and kill the siren!

So my question is, about the 50A wire; the fuses in the two lines for constant 12v+ are only rated for 30A and the manual explicitly states that lines >30A need relays... That seems counter intuitive. I understand about the secondary ignition, it's already spliced into it. I get the theory of the hood pin but doesn't a proximity sensor (which I have) serve the same purpose? Gets too close, alarm starts sounding before they have a chance to pry to hood up. I could put it in, just laziness I guess.

OK read that post again, relays for circuits using more than 30 amps. Not necessary, if the manufacturers ignition lead has a 50 amp fuse.. to be safe there's a second constant at the switch, run the power feed for your starter output to there. They put that para in without thinking it through. Yes it's sheer laziness that could give you lots of headaches with a big liability claim from a mechanic who's lost a finger or worse.

Or run all the constants to the battery* or internal fusebox feed (white?). * Which would bring us right back to the hood pin!

O.K. I follow now. I wasn't considering the remote start as a liability while someone was under the hood. Big danger (have personally lost part of a finger to a pulley). So, looking at this hood pin assembly is the switch build into the solenoid? Down = Closed circuit, Up = Open circuit? And, just so we're clear. Even though the current at the 12v+ constant is higher than the fuse rating isn't an issue since the draw on the line is lower than the fuse rating... Correct? So, the two red constants, 30A fuse in line directly into the White 12v+ 50A wire. Then the rest of the wires, starter to starter, ignition to primary and acc to secondary.

The hood pin is for SAFETY as Howie is trying to tell you. It keeps the remote starter from working if the hood is open and say someone is doing work in the engine compartment area, so they don't get hurt.When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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OP, your last post, could I have some of what you're smoking? Hood pin assembly? Solenoid? Split the reds between the two constants at the ignition switch.