crimestopper remote start stopped working

Specs Vehicle 2002 Mercury Sable Remote Start Crimestopper RS-1304 DP II Bypass Originally Flash Logic PKFord Now Xpresskit PKFM Ok I have had this remote start installed professionally about 4 years ago. It has worked completely fine up until now. The remote will function in all aspects of lock, unlock and trunk but for some reason it will not remote start. The brain clicks on and attempts to start but the starter never cranks. However the brain seems to think it started because after the clicking I can start my car with the key and then remove my key and the car will stay running until I hit the brake or shutdown the remote start. During the remote start and while using a DMM I have concluded that the brain has a good ground and both 12+ have power with no blown fuses. During remote start the IGN, ACC1 and ACC2/IGN2 wires all supply the 12V to the ignition but there is NO 12 V coming back on the Starter wire. There is NO anti grind relay installed in this application the brown starter wire is just tapped in. I have checked the hood pin and brake wires and they are functioning properly. Like I said nothing was changed with the unit since it was installed but just stopped starting the car. I have also checked valet mode and have taken it in and out multiple times and it is not in valet mode. So being a PATS 2 system I believed the culprit was my bypass. believing that the correct signal was not being sent so it was not closing the "switch" to send the 12v from the ignition to the starter. I tried resetting the module and it properly learns the signal but still did not work. So I purchased a similiar bypass and hooked it up and it too learned the signal and seems to work properly because during remote start the theft light does not come on. BUT for some reason the starter NEVER cranks. the Vehicle was originally set up for smart tachless mode. thinking this was the issue, I changed the setting in the brain to tach and used tach finder and landed to a proper tach at the injector and had a good tach signal and it set up for it. STILL no 12v out to the starter. I have exhausted every option I can think of. No wiring was changed and all connections are soldered and solid. No fuses are blown. Not in valet mode. replaced bypass. everything works except it DOES NOT CRANK. Is it just the brain took a crap or am I just overlooking something. Any other options? Or should I just save the trouble and headache and bust down to get a newer unit? Just not sure why it would just stop cranking. Thanks!

Sounds like you have covered all of the trouble shooting. Seems like a no 12 volt output on the starter wire(brown). Stuck relay? inside the unit?

I looked at the install manual for this unit and I didn't notice any (-) starter outputs for a relay to try to use as a starter output. Is it worth the time to take the ACC2 and change it over to a starter output to test ?

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Thanks for you quick response. I never thought about trying that. I could take the pink/white ACC2/IGN2/STR2 wire and take it to my starter wire. Abanden the starter wire. Change the jumper from ACC2 to STR 2. and Take ACC1 wire to BOTH Accessory wires at the ignition and see it does in fact start by using the STR2 setup. You may be right it may be a bad relay inside the unit. I have only spent 2-4 hrs in troubleshooting and $20 on the bypass. I think I will try that and if it still fails, not put any more effort into it and buy a new one. Thanks for the idea. Any more ideas from you or anyone else would also be much obliged.. Oh there is also a GWR wire that I use to trigger the bypass, could I also use this to trigger a external relay to send 12 v to the starter wire?

I don't  think I would try to drive the two car accessorys with the one from the remote starter. Just use the ACC2 as Starter2 for a test. Not sure about useing the GWR for both the bypass and driving a relay. I have not done something like that and would hate to see you burn something else.  Possible to disconnect the bypass GWR, use the GWR to drive a relay and put your key in the ignition barrel for starting.

I have a 2000 Taurus Wagon, so I know what wiring you have. Rather easy vehicle to do. Might be a chance to upgrade your remote starter.

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You can split the ground while running wire to supply both the bypass and a relay. the crimestopper installation manual shows you how to using 2 diodes on the yellow/black wire. You can move the jumper for the pink/white over to starter and connect to the vehicles starter wire. Then wire up a external relay for accessory 2. relay wiring 85- yellow/black 86- gray accessory wire 87- fused constant 12V 30- output to your accessory 2 wire in car

dont use the GWR as the starter trigger because the GWR come on and stays on as long as you have remote start active. you can however use it as the ground to a relay to send power to your 2nd accessory once you switch the actual 2nd accessory wire over to the starter. use the GWR as the ground and use the 1st accessory as the positive to activate the relay. you can split the accessory wire for testing purposes but a relay is needed as a permanent solution.

Nice catch flobee4.When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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Flobee thank you for your response. I did just look and the manual and it does show that set up for the 3rd ignition. which would also work fine for the acc2. Also instead of diode isolating and switch both I could use the GWR to activate a relay for the ACC2. Use the Idata cable from the brain to the bypass to operate that. take the "faulty" brown starter wire off and replace with the pink white acc2/ign2/str2 wire. Change the jumper on the brain to starter and all should work fine. Of course pending the pink white does in fact operate the starter. I have no reason to believe it shouldnt since it provides the proper 12v to the acc right now unless the jumper sends the 12v through the same "faulty relay" that the brown runs off of. For testing purposes I will just remove the brown for now, switch the jumper. attach the pink white and see if it cranks. If it does I will go ahead and attach the idata for the bypass and the relay for the acc2. I did at one time have some diodes and could do it that way but not sure if i can find them and would then have to run to the store. I will report back my findings so others can use this information. Any other thoughts please post. THANKS!@

Ok here we go guys. Success! I unhooked the brown starter wire and capped it off. Then I took the pink/white off of ACC2 and hooked it to the starter wire. Changed the jumper from ACC2 to STR2. Unfortunately the idata cable that came with my bypass only would plug into the 4 pin expansion plug on the brain and not the 4 pin data plug.so..... I did in fact diode isolate to leads off the GWR one to the bypass to activate it and one to a relay that i hooked up to the BLACK/ green ACC2 wire. 12v supply from the gray ACC1 wire, ground trigger from GWR. 12 v fused from the load side of one of the 12v reds going to the brain, and the output to the acc2 wire. short version, EXACTLY what flobee suggested. PROPS to you my friend. Not sure why the brown starter wire or relay took a dump but i guess like anything it eventually wears out. ALL in all i can send back the bypass, (I put the old one in and worked fine) and I only lost about 5 hours messing with it. Thanks to everyone who replied. Wish I could have used idata and saved myself from using the relay and adding wires, but unfortunately i didnt have the right cable. Thanks all!!!!

Glad to hear everything worked out! That technique I laid out with the ground while running is old school. Back in the day, remote starters would only come with 1 ignition, starter, and accessory output. You had to wire relays like above to get any 2nd accessory or starter outputs. I used to have to do it all the time. Its imprinted in my brain...LOL