viper 5204v in 2004 ford escape

Hello new member, first ever install.

 AS the title states I will be installing a viper 5204v in my 2004 ford escape. I have read that this is a easy truck to install an alarm/remote start on, basicly kick panel and key cylinder. I have seen posts about using the arm and disarm wires for lock and unlock on the vehicle side, but do i use the alarms arm and disarm or lock and unlock wires?

 Also key sense wire location?

Thanks.

See this link for a complete wiring chart: http://readyremote.com/main.asp?action=select&yr=5593&product=Remote%20Start&make=Ford&model=Escape# The lock and unlock is the same wire on this truck (pink/white). Unlock is a direct (-) trigger and lock is through a 1000 ohm resistors. The factory alarm arm wire on the truck will also lock the doors so you can connect it to the viper's lock wire. The factory alarm disarm wire on the truck can be connected to the disarm wire on the viper. Since the disarm will not unlock the doors, you will have to connect the unlock wire from the viper to the pink/white unlock wire on the truck.

I installed the viper last night and it works great except I cant get the pktx to program. i wired it using d2d but it seems like it is not getting an ignition source but im not to sure. any advice?

Wire always in W2W mode, that way you can test everything.

Have you connected the pink ignition wire from the pktx to the ignition wire on the transponder plug (the harness with the rx/tx wires)? If so, connect that wire to the ignition wire from the ignition harness (which the R/S is connected to). Aside from that those steps can be finicky, I'm guessing that you have the viper unit all set and will remote start with the key in the ignition switch?

yes, remote start works fine with key in ignition. I only used the tx/rx wires at the transponder.

Try going w2w as howie suggested. While you're at it, triple check the bypass wires. Make sure rx is to rx, tx to tx, ignition and gwr.. Once you've gone w2w and verified the wires, it's just a matter of timing the steps. At any step where you have to press the programming button on the bypass, make sure you press it for a full 1 second and not a quick press and release.

Is the vehicle giving you lights flash as diagnostics when you attempt a remote start?

I just got finished with a 2010 Mazda 3 and had similar issues with programming my idatalink bypass. For the last step (remote starting), it wasn't holding ignition long enough before trying to start and throwing the error (no key detected). I ended up just jumping constant 12v to the ignition wire for the last step and it programmed first time. Not sure if that is your issue, but it's worth a try.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

I found the problem to be a poor ignition conection to the pktx. Works great now, programmed first try after fixing it. Thanks to everyone that replied.