1989 jeep cherokee python 5704

I am going to be installing my security system today and had a few checks and questions. The vehicle is a 1989 Jeep Cherokee with the factory key-less entry and the security system is the Python 5704. I have never done a security system before, but I have a very good understanding of most of the things that need to go on. I have checked on here and on bulldog to make sure that the wiring I want to use is what I need and I will be testing them before I crimp everything. I have tried to match up the vehicle wiring to the install guide wiring chart that came with the alarm as best as I can but am hoping someone here can help confirm what I have. Here are my findings: 1989 Cherokee Vehicle Wiring Diagram: http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/index.aspx?MakeID=25&ModelID=16290 Python 5704 Wiring /Cherokee Wiring Matched: Main 6 Pin H1/1     Red     (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT:     Pink/Black or Red, Ignition Switch Harness      H1/2     Black     (-) CHASSIS GROUND: Grounded, Anywhere      H1/3     Brown     (+) SIREN OUTPUT: To Siren H1/4     WHITE/ Brown, PARKING LIGHT ISOLATI0N WIRE: Not Used H1/5     White     PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT: Blue/Red, Driver Kick Panel H1/6     Orange     (-) 500mA GR0UND WHEN ARMED:      Not Used Door Lock 3 - Pin 1     Blue     (-) 500mA UNLOCK 0UTPUT:     Tan, Passenger Kick Panel (+) * 2     Empty     Not used 3     Green     (-) 500mA Lock output: Lt. Green, Passenger Kick Panel (+) * Aux/Shutdown/Trigger 24-pin H2/1     Pink/White     (-) 200mA IGNITION/FLEX RELAY Control OUTPUT:     Not Used      H2/2     BLACK/ White     (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT:Metal, Attatch to ground. H2/3     Blue/White     (-) 200mA 2ND SIATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT:     Not Used      H2/4     GREEN/ Black     (-) 200mA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT: Not Used H2/5     RED / white     (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT:Not Used H2/6     Green (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT (N/C 0R N/0): BLACK/ White (-),Underdash light H2/7     BLACK / YELLOW     (-) 200mA D0ME LIGHT SUPERVISI0N 0UTPUT:     Not Used      H2/8     BROWN / Black     (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT:Black, Steering Column Ribon H2/9     Dark Blue     (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT:Not Used H2/10     Pink (-) 200mA IGNITI0N 1 OUTPUT:Not Used H2/11     WHITE/ Black     (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT:     Not Used H2/12     Violet (+) D00R TRIGGER INPUT:     Not Used H2/13     WHITE/ Violet     (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT:     Not Used H2/14     Violet/Black     (-) 200mA AUX 2 0UTPUT:     Not Used H2/15     ORANGE / Black     (-) 200mA AUX 4 0UTPUT:     Not Used H2/16     Brown (+) BRAKE SHUTD0WN INPUT:White (+), Brake Light Switch H2/17     Grey (-) HOOD PIN input (N/C 0R N/0):to Hood Pin H2/18     Violet / YELLOW     (-) 200mA Starter Output:   Drk. Green, Ignition Switch Harness H2/19     Blue (-) TRUNK /INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT(N/C OR N/O):     to triggers H2/20     Grey/Black     (-) DIESEL WAIT T0 START INPUT:Not Used H2/21     WHITE/ Blue     (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT:     Not Used H2/22     Orange (-) 200mA Accessory OUTPUT: H2/23     Violet/White     TACHOMETER INPUT:     Green, Coil (anywhere closer?) H2/24     GREEN / WHITE     (-) 200mA OEM ALARM ARM OUTPUT:Not Used Remote Start 10 Pin H3/1     PINK (+) IGNITI0N 1 INPUT/OUTPUT: Yellow (+), Ignition Harness H3/2     RED / WHITE     (+) FUSED30A IGNITION 2 FLEX RELAY:     Pink/Black or Red (+), Ignition Harness     Const 12V H3/3     ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT:Brown (+), Ignition Harness H3/4     VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT CAR S STARTER KILL:     Drk. Green(+), Ignition Harness,Cut starter wire, connect to vehicle side H3/5     GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT KEY S STARTER KILL:     Drk. Green(+), Ignition Harness,Cut starter wire, connect to key side H3/6     RED (+) FUSED 30A IGNITION 1 INPUT: Pink/Black or Red(+), Ignition Harness Const 12V H3/7     PINK/WHITE     (+) IGNITI0N 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT:     not used H3/8     PINK/BLACK     (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side FR:     Not Used H3/9     RED / BLACK     (+) FUSED 30A ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT:     Pink/Black or Red(+), Ignition Harness Const 12V H3/10     EMPTY NOT USED     Not Used Can anyone give me any feedback? How does this look, correct? incorrect? I feel like I'm hardly using anything. I have the stock dual shock sensor that will be plugged in as well as a tilt sensor, glass break and a motion sensor. Do all of these plug into the shock sensor? Or do they use the accessory outputs or are those for window regulators? Also, the *, the wires are marked as positive, how will I get these to work? just wire another relay that will use the positive and then use the alarm input as the ground? Any other tips and advice is also appreciated. Thank you!

A few issues:

The 1989 Jeep with factory keyless needs a (+) signal for the door locks.  You will need to convert the Python's (-) 500mA output

to (+) with relays ( https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#3wp ) or use a Directed 451M door lock module ( > $8 ).

H2/18 is not used, don't connect to the (+) Dark Green Starter wire.  That is handled by H3/4 and H3/5.

H2/23 A: = nope  You are going to have to go into the engine compartment for the siren and hood pin anyway.

Set Viper Parking Light jumper / fuse to (+).

And one suggestion.  Unless you have a high-end multi-stage compound crimping tool, please solder all your connections.  You

will thank me in a year or so.  

Soldering is fun!

http://www......com/item_4313_GS-Audio-Crimper.html Plus http://www.mcmaster.com/#electrical-wire-splices/=lmv3m9 That was my plan. And thanks for the reply so quickly. One thing more, just to make sure, all of the sensors can just piggy back on each other right?

sorry, those links didn't work, Crimper and Multi-Wire Heat-Shrink Butt Splices

http://www......com/item_4313_GS-Audio-Crimper.html http://www......com/item_4313_GS-Audio-Crimper.html Wow, well anyway, the crimper is a GS audio crimper from .... sense the links dont want to work.

That is not the correct style crimper. Do yourself a favor; scrap the entire crimping idea and solder / tape all of your connections. It takes no longer than trying to crimp everything and is a lot more reliable. A butt splice won't work for you anyways since most of your connections will be to an un-cut factory wire... ie no way to get a butt splice on it. Only cut factory wires when it's absolutely necessary.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Ok, so I ran into a problem, The H2/16 (Brown) (+) BRAKE SHUTD0WN INPUT: White (+), Brake Light Switch. Well I cant find said white wire. Is all I need the wire that has positive current going through it when the brake is depressed, because I found that one, but its blue and yellow. Thanks for all of the replys so far guys, it really helps.

Wire colors can sometimes vary.   Three out of four wires listings say it's White and the fourth has this info : 

 Brake Light      LIGHT BLUE/BLACK OR  LIGHT BLUE (+)   AT SWITCH

BUT, the DMM always tells the truth.   This Brake wire is used to shut down the engine during a remote start and / or

allow a "key take-over" after a remote start.  Be sure to test for correct operation during the final testing phase of the install process.

Soldering is fun!