2004 4runner 529t viper

I just had my viper 4204 installed in my 2004 4runner. I asked having the rear tailgate window activate to go down just like the OEM remote. He quoted me $250, assuming he doesn't want to do the job. Said it was alot of work and would have to run a wire to the rear gate. I just bought a DEI 529T module on amazon, is this a task I can DIY? Anyone here can guide me to have the aux button roll down and roll up upon arming?

Actually two wires, a constant 12V+ and a ground to raise (with arming) and to lower it. Having said that it might be activated from the BCM and might not even need a closer, you would need someone who's done it and knows the answer or you have to access the circuit diagrams. If it has a "one touch" switch, I guarantee you won't need a 529t.

There is a one touch down, but you have to hold it down for the duration of the up window and only works with ignition on. There is also a key lock on the rear hatch that will allow you to roll the window up or down.

***they key method obviously doesn't need ignition to be on.

Based on (many years of) experience I can almost guarantee, subject to testing, that that rear key switch has three wires, one goes to ground, the other two go to one of the following; separate relays, relays built into a door control module or relays built into the vehicle BCM. Find those two wires and if I'm right, i.e. NEG (-) switching simply connecting an aux to each will do the job. By UK labour rates, I'd be looking from scratch of a max of about $150 equivalent (3 hours max). The hardest work on that vehicle is going from the rear to the front.

By the way, if not already programmed, go to menu 1, feature 8 and program in "Comfort Close", that will close your windows when you arm the unit.

Thanks, I'll give that a try. If anybody else has experience on a 4runner, please feel free to chime in.

Not very complicated. No need for $250 or a 529T. That installer you used could have easily asked you for $50, and had $45 in profit in 20 minutes. Oh well, he must be allergic to both money and internet research. Two ways of doing this: 1: What Howie said. Go into tailgate and find the negative-trigger wires while turning the key back and forth. Run two wires (for the open and close functions), bring the wires through the rubber boot for the tailgate wires, bring them up through the car to the front, connect to Viper's aux outputs. Shouldn't need relays or even diodes probably, really just wire and a bunch of time/labor to bring the wires up to the front. 2: This is how I do it, but not the way everyone prefers. 2A: find the trigger up/down wires in the front of the car. They come from the switch above the radio, and I'm pretty sure end up at the bottom connector at the fuse box. So, you can either test every wire at the fuse box while operating the switch until you find the right wires, or just pull the switch out and go right there. I think the job looks neater if you do it all under the driver's dash, but taking out the switch might be faster. I don't know the polarity (+/-) or the colors, but it wouldn't take long to test. You could probably find a Toyota service manual to help, but really it would take less time to test the wires than to chase down the manual. 2B: There are two ignition wires at the key switch. The Viper's pink will be connected to one of these wires; Viper pink/white to the other. ONE of these wires must be energized for the dash-mounted switch to operate; trial-and-error with a jumper wire and you'll figure it out. 2C: Using a combination of relay(s) and/or diode(s), use the Viper's AUX output(s) to energize the desired up/down wire, AND the correct ignition wire, at the same time. SUMMARY: My method 2 above probably sounds complicated if you're not an installer, but any installer who understands relays and diodes could wire it up in a short time. I find it raster and easier to do the small amount of extra wiring up front, and I don't much enjoy passing wires through door boots. Other installers might find the rubber boot easy to deal with, and dislike messing around with relays. So really, either way is probably fine. NOTE: My Method 2 above causes the car's ignition and climate controls to momentarily come on when operating the window. Never had a complaint about it, but something you might want to know.

I'd go with Chris's number 2 method for exactly the same reasons, faster hate running wires down that vehicle and I have loads of relays and diodes. I'm also sure that some time ago, I used that method to actuate ACC on a vehicle (Toyota?) to do the folding mirrors. To get around the "ignition on" scenario set it up to only operate whilst remote start is operating, thus two wires only needed to the switch.

Thank you for the replies, I'll get working on it.