viper 5904 with xpresskit db all

Been doing alot of reading and research, (maybe too much), and still I am not 100% sure of the following questions: I would like to install a Viper 5904 along with the Xpresskit Nexgen DB ALL data bus interface into my 2013 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport, auto trans(6 cyl) with the "G" on the key. And, (if all goes well), install the same on a 2013 Hyundai Sonata GLS (non smart key). 1. Is this the correct equipment to use with each other, or are there better suggestions? 2. Do I need, or should I purchase the Xpress Xkloader2 .for firmware flashing/update for the Nexgen DB ALL? 3. Do I need, or should I purchase the 998T Bitwriter for the Viper 5904 programming? 4. How "plug and play"'able is the Nexgen DB ALL with these 2 vehicles? I know there will be wire splicing involved and I am not worried at all about doing that, as long as the information that I am finding is correct. I am just not sure about the Xpress DB ALL in what it is capable of doing, and if I can use the Xkloader2 for it. If the first install goes well, I will be doing at least 2 more, so if buying the Xpress DB ALL, Xkloader2 and the 998t Bitwriter will make my installs easier then they will be worth the money for me. Also, if anyone has any tips (I found some on this site and the web) for my installs on the Tacoma and the Sonata please let me know. Please be kind in any response, I know that these questions make me sound totally ignorant (stupid), but I have installed many audio systems in cars and my job as an aircraft electrician has me installing many mods in aircraft. However, I have never installed a remote starter/alarm system in a car. I am not trying to be a cheap *** by not having it installed by a pro, I just enjoy doing this type of stuff. Thanks!!!!

You pose some very thoughtful questions that might get some very subjective answers.   Most installers have some strong personal preferences. I completely understand your DIY desire, these type projects can be very rewarding. The Viper 5904 is a very sophisticated system. It was designed to be installed by Directed authorized, factory trained technicians. Distribution of the complete install guides is restricted but they can be found. As I'm sure you have discovered, warranty and Tech Support are not available to DIYers. All that being said, while difficult, it is not impossible to obtain the Viper system, guides and with help from this site, successfully complete your install. Having the BitWriter will make your projects easier. Setting the programming options with a BitWriter is a breeze and it will allow you to access special programming areas that simple FOB programming can't. If you are planning several installs of Directed systems the $75 investment will pay good dividends. The same logic can be used for the less expensive XKLoader2 cable ( $40 ). Besides the DB-ALL, it can be used on many other XPressKit modules ( like the PKALL and XK0x series ). With this cable you will be able to do everything except Key2Go. Unless they have made some changes to the U.S. market 2013 Hyundai Sonata GLS, those cars with the standard laser cut key do not have a transponder based immobilizer system. Therefore no bypass module is necessary. The DB-ALL for that car will make the install quicker but all of the necessary wires are easy to locate and hardwiring everything will save you a few dollars ( no DB-ALL ). There is a Pictorial on the 2011 Sonata GLS in the Pictorials section that will provide more info. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~132478~PN~1 For the Tacoma, the DB-ALL is slightly over-kill, being as it only handles the "G" key transponder bypass. There are better and cheaper options available for the truck. The PKALL is one. It would not require any firmware flash ( it comes pre-loaded ) and should be less expensive than the DB-ALL. If you want a more elegant bypass solution, I would highly recommend the ADS TB bypass module from iDatalink. It must be flashed by a dealer with the TL5 firmware, but install is very easy ( no wires to cut ), the vehicle connections are at the drivers dash ( not behind the glove box ) and the module is bullet-proof. There should be online sources for this module that will flash it prior to shipment. Here is a link to the ADS TB w/TL5 firmware install guide : http://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/TB-TL5/ADS-AL(TB)-TL5-EN_20130724.pdf As far as plug-n-play, I prefer to go with the W2W install mode ( instead of the D2D mode ). It takes longer to do and can look messy if you don't plan things out but with proper bench prep, the overall install will be easier and last the life of the vehicle. Below is an Avital R/S system with the Fortin EVO-ALL bypass module connected in the W2W mode, bench prepped and ready for vehicle install. Soldering is fun!

Thanks so much for the advice kreg357. I will go with your suggestions for the Tacoma. For the Hyundai I may still use the DB ALL because of the door lock issues(?). I have done a lot of reading about these 2 vehicles and may be getting confused, but I thought that there was a door lock issue with the Hyundai. So that is why I thought the DB ALL would be a good idea.   I'm guessing that the Xkloader2 is only for Xpress equipment and could not be used or even needed for the ADS TB bypass module from iDatalink. If that is true than for $5 more should I get the ADS instead of the PKALL for the Tacoma?    One last question, for now, I am also going to install heated mirrors in my Tacoma using a switch and mirrors from a 2012 Highlander. This is all separate from any of the truck computers. So, on the viper system there is a defroster option I believe , and that is what I will use to turn on the heated mirrors utilizing the switch which I believe has the timer built in to control a separate higher amp relay. So, I guess my question is; the wire from the viper to operate defrost(for any car) is that wire to make ground or supply + ? I should be able to look at a wire diagram for 2012 highlander and see where it goes I think, right? Thanks again, and sorry for asking so many questions.

Unfortunately each bypass manufacturer has their own flash cable. Fortin has the FlashLink, ADS has the ADS USB and XPressKit has the XKLoader2. All are different, as is their communications protocol, so you can't use one brand to flash another brand.   Additionally, iDatalink restricts access to the Flash portion of their WEB site to authorized, registered and verified 12 volt industry professionals. XPressKit only restricts the Key2Go portion and Fortin is still user friendly. On the Sonata, the Factory alarm system requires a bit of manipulation without a CAN Bus style bypass module. Relays and diodes are required. The DB-ALL will save your some time and money. Here is where the personal preferences come in. I have not used a DB-ALL but have heard and read many complaints. For my time and money, and my customers satisfaction, I have found iDatalink and Fortin very reliable. I don't want come-backs. Being as this is for your personal vehicles, you can try the DB-ALL flashed with the 401.HKHT1 v1.09 firmware, and even try D2D. Just be ready to switch over to W2W in case of weird problems. As a point of interest, there is currently an EBay listing for 3 DB-ALL bypass modules**, flashed with your firmware request / choice for $100. That could be a good deal for you, at $33 each. Using a DB-ALL on the Tacoma is no big deal, you just have to extend some wires to reach the ECM behind the glove box. ** I have no part of or interest in that EBay auction. The Viper does have a defrost control output. It is H2/3 Blue/White wire. This wire supplies a (-) 200mA signal. It can be programmed using Menu 3, Item 11 for either a latched output or a single .8 second pulse output. Not sure where you plan to connect this wire ( vehicle or heated side view mirror switch ).Soldering is fun!

Got the 2013 Hyundai Sonata install completed (viper 5904 with expresskit DB-All). Only issue was the dreaded "toggle switch off" message, I just joined the 2 wires and eliminated the switch and then grounded one of those wires. Next up will be the 2013 Toyota Tacoma install using Viper 5904 and Idatalink transponder bypass. I think that I will use the Viper's 3 pin harness (door lock port) and connect those wires to the truck's factory arm/disarm wires and not use the Viper's arm/disarm wires nor the lock/unlock wires on the truck. I read that in another post. Does anyone know if there is any "special" programming needed to be done to the Viper? I have a bitwriter. Also, any suggestions for 12V sources other then the ignition switch? I am also installing heated mirrors and would like to use the Viper's H2/2 blue/white wire rear defogger output to turn the heater mirror's on as if they were a defroster. Here is the diagram for the mirror's. The five connections are... 1: Illumination Constant 2: Illumination Rheostat 3: Ground 4: Timed Ground 5: Accessory positive Any suggestions as to where to connect the Viper blue/white wire? It would have to trigger a ground for the timer portion of the switch. Thanks!!

Or may have to parallel this circuit http://www.wolstentech.com/products/timedelayrelay/basic-instructions.php for use with the viper, only the switch will not be illuminated when mirror's heaters are remotely turned on.

Hi,

  I recently installed a Viper 5904 with a DB-ALL in a 2013 Hyundai Sonata, everything went well and works great.

  Now I am installing a Viper 5904 with a Idatalink immobilizer in a 2013 Toyota Tacoma.  I have all the hook ups complete and the alarm and keyless entry all works, however the remote start does not.  Here is the scenario;

-  Using the remote start; the truck's dash lights light up but the starter never engages.  With the key in ignition or    out = the same no start results.  With the key out of ignition the truck's security light flashes the whole time, with key in ignition the truck's security light does not flash.  (Still the starter never engages, dash lights come on then off 3 times, viper box does "click" , but truck does not turn over.  I never get voltage on the violet wire and have + power on the pink and pink/white momentarily when dash lights light).

-  I followed the wiring instructions from a post on this site, including installing 1 relay that goes to the truck's BLACK/ white igintion wire. 

-  The viper box fuses are good, all + full time power are good, grounds are solid at kick panel.  I soldered the connections (remote start ones).  I set up tach signal in accordance with the viper instructions.  Everything seems to be correctly wired per the instructions from this website.

-  Idatalink seems to be programmed to truck (based on the LED indication) and is hardwired to remote start (+pwr, ground, and blue/white to viper dark blue) and idatalink gray/red to truck obdII pin 7. 

-  Remote start still will not work.  Truck does start and run with the key.  I never get a + pwr on the GREEN/ black igniton wire.

the only thing I can think is a bad Viper brain box  ( or my brain is bad).  after the 3 failed start attempts i get "low tach signal" on remote but I figure that is because the starter didn't even engage thus engine not starting for tach signal.  I was being helped with troubleshooting via phone call by an installer ( tried hooking pink and pink/white wire together, BLACK/ white to violet, and every other trick the installer could think of).   ???????  Should I get another viper box and try it?  The kit I purchased from Amazon was brand new.  The idatalink is flashed with TL5.

Any suggestions?  Thanks in advance.