1999 ford crown vic p71viper 5101

Hi I am about to begin an install on a 1999 Crown Victoria P71 and would like some info on some of the details.. I have installed this same type remote start on a 1995 Tahoe and this forum was extremely helpful... I believe I will need to put relays in the lock/unlock and possibly the trunk release... One relay for lock and one for unlock... and one for trunk release.. Can anyone confirm? Any tips or basic install procedures I can try... Thanks in advance

This isn't a step-by-step, but at least a little info to help you find your wires: Locks: Open the driver's door wide, hold it open with your left knee for safety (in case of wind or someone walks by and bumps into the door). Unsnap the rubber boot that carries the wires into the door, and shove the boot into the door as far as you can. Lock is pink / YELLOW; unlock pink/green. Like you said, the locks are "5-wire," and you'll need one relay for lock, another for unlock...so two relays altogether. Lights/trunk: Remove the driver's doorsill, unscrew a couple of the 7mm bolts holding down the black channel where the wires are inside. Parking lights is brown, positive. Trunk, positive, is also in there, but I forget the color. Ignition wires and brake: I suppose you already know to take down the driver's underdash panel to access the ignition wires. While you're in there, you'll see two or three thin wires wrapped up in what looks kinda like black duct tape, connected to a little solenoid. That solenoid is that thing that won't let you shift out of Park without your foot on the brake. Anyway....brake is in there; no need to go to the pedal. Door triggers: I've done mostly remote starters on these, only a couple of alarms. But I'm pretty sure you go to the LCM (light control module) above the gas pedal and diode-isolate the individual door wires. Immobilizer: Don't let anyone tell you the car has a transponder key and needs a bypass module. You probably already know this, but the police cruisers came with a regular key. NOTE: Allow extra time for unexpected police accessories under the driver's dash. You'll have to decide whether to work around them, or remove them if they don't work anymore.

Thanks Chris, Just a question or 2... Would I be able to get to the lock/unlock from drivers kick panel? From where they go through the boot. Will the trunk release need a relay? Or the dome light? The way this is stated down below with all the lock/unlock configs has got me confused.. Mine has no keyless entry.. The colors in your post show for keyless and w/o keyless.. Door Trigger BLACK/ Light Blue (+) Light under Dash Door Lock Pink / YELLOW W/Keyless Positive Trigger Driver's Boot Door Unlock Pink/Light Green W/o Keyless Entry Reverse Polarity Driver's Lock Pink/Black Dark Door Jamb Boot Driver's Unlock RED / Orange In Driver's Door Passenger Unlock Pink/Orange Dark Door Jamb Boot I guess the last 2 drivers have got me confused.. pink/black and RED / orange...unless that is for drivers door only? and the with and without keyless is confusing me too... Sorry to be such a bother

No bother at all. The trunk release definitely needs a relay. (PS: Relays can get expensive if you buy them individually at retail...maybe $10 each and even more if you want the harness that plugs into it. But they wholesale for as little as $1 if you buy in bulk. Anyway, I'd just go to a junkyard, pull a handful out of the fuse boxes on some old cars, and make your own wiring with female spade connectors.) If you want the Viper to perform domelight supervision using the BLACK/ light blue wire, you'll need a relay. (There's probably a low-current, negative-trigger domelight wire at the dimmer switch in the dash, or at the LCM. You won't need a relay if you connect the Viper BLACK/ white here, but it'll take you some time to find the wire. Do you have a lot of other work to do on your car? alldatadiy.com for $20/year you'll have wiring diagrams there.) My experience with the door locks in these cars is from doing a LOT of new Grand Marquis back in the early 2000s....the GS model that didn't come with factory keyless entry. (As you could imagine, we would see far more of the Mercury than the Ford, doing dealer work.) Anyway, on the Grand Marquis, I've heard a rumor that you can find the wires in a harness above the glove box. I tried looking there once, but I didn't spend too much time on it. I know some of the tech sheets on this car are confusing, but I can say for sure that if you don't have factory keyless, the wires are certainly thick pink / YELLOW and pink/green. There is probably another color wire in there somewhere if you're trying to unlock only the driver's door first, but I never tried it. Also, the driver's door boot wires go into the car, and then straight up through a metal cavity that won't be easy to get to. That doesn't mean it's impossible, though. If you don't like the idea of cutting the wires inside the boot where they get flexed a lot, I agree, I just never found an easier way. On the other hand, if you think it'll be hard to access them in the boot, don't worry. Seriously, you don't even need to open your tool box if all you want to do is see the wires. Just push the rubber boot inside the door and you'll see them right there.

Thanks, next question: I believe I will need to use the - 200ma 2nd lock output to open all the doors.. Without only the drivers would unlock? If so where would the 2nd - unlock wire connect? Or would I need it? I only have 3 DEI 610T relays at this time left over from another install. 2 for doors and one for...(aux) My ideal setup is of course remote start.... aux trunk release ability, door lock/unlock and maybe aux rear defogger.. Since I don't do this all the time I get myself confused a lot.. Especially with the extra info in the manuals that I will not need. I do believe I will need a relay to have the horn honk on lock and unlock...since my horn wire is Dark Blue - and horn output on 5101 is Brown - Horn output.. I get confused on polarity.. This has got me confused too: ➤ Door lock harness, 3-pin connector 1 BLUE (+) LOCK (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT 2 EMPTY NOT USED 3 GREEN (-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT Since it is reversing polarity and only and Lock is pink / YELLOW; unlock pink/green the wording above is the confusing part...Why does it show 2 polarities on a single wire? And I haven't even researched how to get defogger to work yet... <fun>

I just received my 5101 and it came with a DEI 451M relay... According to my research this is made for a 5 wire lock like mine... Is that's so? IF it is how does it wire up?

The 451M Install Guide is in the Downloads Section. Just search on 451M. The 451M will handle a wide variety of door lock styles, including the one in your CV P71. If you have Type C ( rev ) locks the directions are on Page 3. If you have Type A (+) locks, those directions are on Page 2.Soldering is fun!

Thanks... Do you have any info or helpful info on how the trunk and defroster would connect? I think I could figure out the trunk.... But the defroster is bugging me

Here is more info on the Trunk Release. Audiovox info : Trunk Release PURPLE / YELLOW (+) 3 PIN CONN DRV KICK PANEL Ready Remote ( DEI ) info : Trunk/Hatch Release Purple / YELLOW (5wi)    drivers door harness Bulldog Security diagram : http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLOADS/15317_CROWN-VICTORIA_FORD%20TRUNK%20RELEASE%20DIAGRAM.pdf The Bulldog site also has some photo's that will assist in disassembly and wire location. Found this info on this forum with a search. Info is for a 2001 C.V. but the 1998 - 2002 model years should be the same. Defroster Blue/Orange (-)    @ switch       No relay required   ( 1 sec pulse needed to turn defrost on ) Use the Viper 5101's Blue/White 2nd Status/Defrost wire and program the Viper to Menu 3, Item 11, Option 3.Soldering is fun!

Ok quick question.. the text in bold from install manual states a relay must be used... S can I assume there is already a relay connected to the trunk release... Found this info on this forum with a search. Info is for a 2001 C.V. but the 1998 - 2002 model years should be the same. Warning! Never use this wire to drive anything but a relay or a low-current input, supplied output is only 200mA. Connecting directly to a solenoid, motor, or other high-current device will cause the module to fail.